Jump to content


Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 17/07/18 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Well have good news. Just worked with IMS and it is all working as expected. Just a few clean ups but there is now Flex Fuel in the Falcon One thing to fix is Stoich recalc but I was expected that could be a issue to resolve. I will do that and the WOT gear change over the weekend.
  2. 8 points
    tell me again why they didnt like you on the other forum?
  3. 7 points
  4. 6 points
    I don't profess to know the guy or the situation and make no judgement either way, but I'd bet my left nut that there's more to the story and he wasn't just sacked because of that reason alone - employers can't justifiably do that these days. Plus, I would hazard a guess that he probably signed some form of agreement within his contract as to what's reasonable to discuss with respects to his work/the company etc. If what he did was a clear violation of what he signed then it may well be an instantly dismissal-able offense. ^This. If you post things online then you essentially give up your right to privacy and can't then turn around and be pissed if someone uses it against you. You don't HAVE to post anything online - people seem to view it as a right, rather than the privilege it actually is. See my comment to El Andrew above. I do agree, to a point - but if you openly post something online then that's not longer your "personal" life, as you've chosen to broadcast it. Perhaps the sorts of people and companies I've dealt with professionally means I NEED to have a different outlook on what is and isn't appropriate to express with respects to your employer, but you're a public representation of your employer, so it stands to reason that they're going to actually give a sh!t how that representation appears, and I can totally appreciate that.
  5. 5 points
    Well no more pocket money from this dipstick. We all play a few jokes. Now go have a long look in the mirror. If I need information from someone I tend not to slag them off. I think the amount of technical help you require will have to be found on google, because you cant punch someone in the face and then ask to loan $50.
  6. 5 points
    For those interested in the Flex Fuel for the Falcon it should be delivered to our two testers tomorrow. At this stage it is only running in my car and I am still optimizing the final version of the code whilst Roland adds some really neat features to the editor to support it. Basically the code works by reading the Flex Fuel sensor for a % ethanol reading and then uses different blend rams for things like Stoich MBT, cold start table, spark and boost. Bend tables can be changed individually for each table and I have added a few custom ones for fun. Here is the sample of what we have included in the Flex tables: Our testers (IMS and Springy Performance) will be getting a more friendly version, this was only to show yo some of what is in there.
  7. 5 points
  8. 5 points
    The irony in this sentence alone is astonishing...
  9. 5 points
    Haha when I met the mcm dudes at Mallala I said to Moog that I've been a fan for so long you could almost call me an airconditioner. He's like, you're a dad aren't you?!
  10. 5 points
    I bought a 8 channel surveillance system today along with a 2 TB wd purple hdd. I will catch the random dog sh*t leaver this time once and for all!!!
  11. 4 points
    gold coast, qld. 600rwkw 2004 ba mk2 ute BASIC RUNDOWN std crank, forged engine, atomic 4.5 cams, ported & polished head, o/s valves, precision 7275 gen2, nizpro manifolds, nizpro stg2 intercooler, turbosmart 45mm gate, fpr1200 & race port bov, 2200cc injectors, magnafuel pump, haltech elite 2500, 3.5" defillipo s/s exhaust, th400 rated at 1500hp, 3500 tcs stall, driveline services 1500hp tailshaft, m86 diff with truetrac, 3.45gears, koni adjustables front and rear, heavy duty 2" lower leafs, sl king springs in the front, territory brakes, work emotion 18x11 & 18x9 wheels, 15x8 weld draglites for the track. made just under 600rwkw with a custom garrett gtx4088/t04z mix @ 27psi, should see 800+rwkw with the precision @ 38psi. on the wish list is caltracks with mono leafs, 70/30 adjustable rear shocks, 90/10's for the front. and that's about it.... maybe a re-spray
  12. 4 points
    I think yours should be handsome guy with big johnson...
  13. 4 points
  14. 4 points
  15. 4 points
    why would we ban you when you're so interesting to talk to?
  16. 4 points
    1. you're just objectively wrong about single spinners. 2. the tag line that stripes uses is a play on a common thing that occurs on this forum, nothing to do with him specifically. 3. i set the avatar myself. it's a hamster.
  17. 4 points
    Fark me I completely forgot... You need an open diff... @goeer Tell him how it is.
  18. 4 points
  19. 4 points
    Haha yeh he stitched me up, I mean fixed me up....bought the software so I guess I'll use it one of these days! I was thinking of selling the F6X as I simply rarely leave the house anymore but guess I'll have to keep the fcker now so I can melt some pistons... The price is to cheap not to buy it so gtf on it!!!
  20. 4 points
    I think that cow must have died of malnutrition
  21. 4 points
    FYI we had discussions with Haltech about offering a cut down version of our product to tune the ZF. If you buy one of these kits and want to tune the ZF we can either put you in touch with someone who can or we can look at offering a ZF only version of PCMTEC. Also for those who were curious we are definitely looking into offering flex fuel on the stock PCM.
  22. 4 points
    Sharing is caring right?! I'm still doing the same old same old so no need to bore you all with the details. I bought a copy of pcmtec and ordered a tactrix thingo (arrives next week) so that should make for some tuning fun when it all comes together.
  23. 3 points
    Had the 4 link looked at this morning. Was hoping for a band-aid fix but nope, to make it work well it's going to need a watts link fabbed up to allow longer shocks to be used. Headed over to Bargo to Savage Fiberglass to pickup my custom bonnet, has vents at the front and rear of the 'boss bulge'. Looks decent but no pics till it's painted next week. Then got to race brakes Sydney to pickup a set of Brembo 6/4s with braided lines, DBA 5000 from ts and DBA 4000 rears. Fitted then this arvo,, stops alright but will be better after I flush out the dot4 fluid with dot5.1 stuff.
  24. 3 points
    Well I pulled my finger out and ordered a girdle, arp main studs and some 28mm head stud washers. At least I can get started with that to measure some crap in the block and then go from there.
  25. 3 points
    My family currently uses exactly one row of Weet Bix every morning.
  26. 3 points
    Scored these argents a while ago for the daily for $300! From my mate who owned a tyre shop I was stoaked.
  27. 3 points
    This place I found online. A Hereford Beefstouw. Would 100% recommend it This is literally the best steak I've ever had: 500g rib eye on the bone, 45 day dry aged beef cooked to medium-rare. Falls apart in your mouth, has heaps of flavour and juices, fat is so flavoursome that you eat it like a butter/sugar combination of texture and flavour. My FWB had this: 250g sirloin, cooked rare. Absolutely excellent flavours
  28. 3 points
    $2.99/kg pork leg. Not bad for a lazy sat. beer and spit.
  29. 3 points
    Managed to get Mrs BCB up early (6:30) and went for a ride up to port Douglas for brecky nice spot by the beach, bacon, eggs and coffee mmmmmmmmmmmmmm hardly anyone on the road, made for good bitumen carving gota love winter in the tropics
  30. 3 points
    There was a break in the weather and the sun came out. Since the roof is iron, it dried off and I got the job done. Lucky too cos now it's pissing down again.
  31. 3 points
    The so and so's on another forum decided to ban me because I said the mustang was a 2 star coffin on wheels in an appreciation thread, I think its now a 3 star coffin because they added a reverse camera , blind spot warning, and 5000 dollars. Its still a death trap for any body in the back at speeds over 70 kmh. What a joke for a car that's been in production for 56 years. The janks can shove there ugly overpriced mustang where the sun don't shine. I will always drive a B, F series falcon. Anyway, I didn't really want to stay where I wasn't wanted or even liked. Most of the people on that site were up themselves. So that's why I came here for my car information, you guys have been great and make me feel at home, thanks guys.
  32. 3 points
    Hi All, I'm new here so go easy, and I'm hoping this can help! I just wanted to share some stuff on here as I had one hell of a time finding it out for myself. After hours of searching and much experimenting with my own FGX G6E I have finally got the Sync 2 Stereo in my FGX sounding right, and this was no easy task. Honestly even after changing all the speakers to quality splits, it souded like they all had pillows in front of them and the louder I turned up the volume, the worse this got. Something had to be done! I'm not going to go into the install of the components but more along the lines of what As-Built Settings you need to change to get your custom speaker/Amp/sub install sounding as it should. You can in fact re-program the Sync 2 to give you Preset Equaliser options, and you can re-program the Audio Control Module (ACM) to output line out levels (RCA +4Volts) from the speaker wires, not only this but you can also re-program the ACM to give you a flat unprocessed output from 20-20000hz and I'll explain why this is important shortly. I have a G6ET which is fitted with the premium audio, and although I haven't tried these mods on any other FGX vehicles, I reckon there is a good chance they will work on all of them. Anyway for me I have purchased a monoblock amp replaced the sub in the rear parcel shelf, changed the speakers and have them running off of a 4 channel amp. The Sub amp gets its signal from the front speaker cables. For those interested the Speaker cables in the front kick panels are the same colour coding as the FG MK2 (which I owned previously also) Right Front: Grey/Green (Neg-) & Grey/Black (Pos+) Right Rear: Blue/Red (Neg+) & Blue Black(Pos+) Left Front: Orange/Light Green (Neg-) & Orange/Black (Pos+) Left Rear: Pink/Green (Neg-) & Pink/Black (Pos+) Once you are wired up you will need to use FORscan(software on Win10) and an OBDLink MX adaptor (tool which plugs into you OBD port) to change the following AS-Built data (sorry you'll have work out this bit for yourself) To Get the Preset Equaliser Options in Sync 2 you will need to change the following; Select the APIM Module, and change the value of the large X to 8. 7D0-01-02 xxxx xXxx xxxx - Enables Preset EQ 0 (Disabled - Default) 8 (Enabled) My original string looked like this 7D0-01-02 0420 0200 0000 With the Preset Equaliser Enabled it looks like this 7D0-01-02 0420 0800 0000 Once Written, Sync will reset itself and the Preset EQ settings should appear. To Disable Factory EQ Processing (This does not affect the BASS/MID/TREB control or the Preset EQs they will still work, this only effects what the ACM does after all of that) The Factory EQ processing that the ACM changes are the Bass and Treble frequencies, it effectively 'rolls them off' as you turn the volume up and that's why the louder it goes the worse it sounds (even with all new amps and speakers) I believe Ford use this fuction to stop your average Motorist from blowing up their crappy factory speakers whilst turning up there favourite tracks. *Prior to doing this modification, turn your volume down* Select the ACM Module and change the values as follows 727-01-02 xXxx - Disables Factory EQ Processing 1 (Enabled - Default) 0 (Disabled) My original string looked like this 727-01-02 0132 With the factory EQ processing disable it looks like this 727-01-02 0032 Once this is written and you cycle the car off/on you will notice a big difference in the sound, especially as you turn the volume up. It will also be alot louder so make sure all your gains on your amps are down as wellyou should now have a clear and unprocessed signal going to your speaker wires (still at speaker level output voltages) In theory you could just have aftermarket speakers connected to the head unit without any amps and they should sound much better, but I have not tried this so proceed with caution. To Change the ACM output Voltage From factory to drive the speakers I believe this comes out at up to about +8V (controlled by the volume control) on the speaker wires as listed above, to be clear, this doesn't magically give you RCA output and bypass the existing amplifier, it only changes the output voltage, so you wouldn't have to use a Speaker Level to RCA level converter to connect to the RCA inputs on your aftermarket amplifier. it also helps avoid 'potential' signal clipping, which once amplified can destroy speakers. Select the ACM Module and change the following values 727-01-01 xxXx xxxx xxxx - Enables Line Level Output 0 (Disabled - Default) 5 (Enabled) My original string looked like this 727-01-01 9E01 1800 806E With the line level output enabled 727-01-01 9E51 1800 806E So you could now hook up your RCA plugs to you speaker wires! always remember to turn down all your volumes/gains prior to trying some music. Your volume control will work as normal. If you are not happy you can just put your old values back in and re-write them to the modules as discussed, Please Make shure you save your factory values before proceeding with these Mods. Hopefully this helps and offers hope to some of you who like myself think the Ford Premium Audio Systems are just not up to scratch (lucky they are so good to drive!)
  33. 3 points
    Hello all, I have been on a journey of around 8 years with my FG. I penned the information to a mate a while back who was considering an XR6T, but recently thought it might be worth sharing. Here is a list of issues and modifications with my FG. It has something like 130,000km on it now. Mid 2008 model. Bought it with 20,000km’s on it from a dealer. It was owned by the Church before (no joke) I actually called the original owner as his name and number in the service book. He was an older guy and he didn’t have any issues with it, said he liked it for overtaking. I have done all of the work on the car myself over the years. It was my daily driver for most of this time and the intention was to put together a good street package, this included handling and braking. I also wanted it to look as subdued as possible to not attract any attention, first thing I did was peel the turbo badge off when I brought it home. Set at standard XR6 ride height with stock rims and no tint, intercooler is also black. The only give away is the Harrop brake package. Issues, A/C is pretty unreliable these days, I think there was a HIM issue but it isn’t helped by the intercooler in front of the condenser. The cooler is 3’’ thick so airflow is pretty poor across the condenser. If anyone knows about a fix for this please let me know. Pretty much all of the suspension bushings standard are too soft. Early days the diff used to sound like it was hitting the floor pan if any wheel spin occurred. I replaced shocks and springs but it didn’t help. In the end I put super pro polyurethane diff bushings in it and it was sorted. All three bushings were done, it requires the entire rear cradle to be removed. Under warranty I got the dealer to put them in for me, they were going to put new standard ones in but I just handed them the polyurethane ones on the day. This resulted in more drive line noise but it was worth it. Front upper inner control arm bushings are a bit soft, I replaced these myself with super pro polyurethane as well. This is not a must but I guess it helps to get a better feel in the steering. Front caster camber kits, I put Kmac ones in that allow for a lot more adjustment than the shim ones. I was unimpressed with the quality of the welds on the Kmac kits, so much so that I ground all of the welds off and re welded with my mig at home. I was hesitant to throw it into a corner very hard with the bird sh*t welds they had. I am happy with them since my modification and I would still use them again because the design and adjustability is good. Brakes, absolutely hopeless stock, not a fade issue for me. It was just shudder as soon as they got hot, definitely never experienced any fade and I was pretty hard on it (twisty/hilly country roads) every day, this said I backed off early because of shudder which certainly detracted from the driving experience. I tried Ferodo pads with DBA slotted rotors, (not cross drilled as I believe the cross drillings lead to cracking). Still developed brake shudder after 5,000km, it was a bit different to the factory rotor issue, with DBA is was a higher frequency shudder but still crap. I actually hit DBA up under warranty, they were very good about it and actually took me on a factory tour in Silverwater when I returned the rotors, they gave me a new set straight off on the day, I tried with these again, same issue developed. There are so many theories as to why the Falcons suffer from brake shudder but none are proven that I know of. Some say it is because there is a small amount of rust scale on the hubs that means there is a little bit of runout on the rotor which then causes the rotors to wear unevenly (thicker and thinner areas around the circumference) however my measurements never showed this. I would also expect the shudder to be there all the time if this were the case, not just when hot, which was not the case. Others say it is incorrect pad transfer to the rotor, apparently the pads lay a layer of material on the rotor and if this is inconsistent then shudder will occur, don’t believe this either. I recon the rotors are not thermally stable and warp when hot and then return to shape when cold. I can pretty much confirm it wasn’t my hubs because my Harrop brakes are on the same hubs and have done around 30,000 km without any issue. More on the Harrop brakes later. Rear control blade bushings were very soft as well, I replaced these as part of my efforts to get rid of axle tramp, I think it was never just one specific fix for the tramp, it was a combination of diff bushings, control blade bushings and shock and spring rates helped as well. End of story was it was fixed in the end and I could drop skids anywhere dry or wet without the issue, not that this was a daily occurrence but at least I could take off from a standing start without it feeling/sounding like I was going to break something. Glovebox lid wasn’t square, common issue replaced under warranty. Manual gear knob is leather wrapped from factory, this stretched over time. Replaced under warranty. It has stretched again but it isn’t really an issue. I have replaced one front wheel bearing and one rear needs doing now, not all that noticeable unless really pushing in a corner, bit a a click can be heard. Stock tyres are not great, don’t get cheap tyres either, it makes a big difference to grip and stability. I had to run high pressures in cheap tyres to get the thing to be stable at speed because the sidewalls are too soft, this compromises traction so it is not the best way to approach the issue. Better quality tyres is where it is at, currently Nitto NT 05's 245/45/18 on standard rims. Clutch, stock this held OK until 90,000km which was around the time I was pushing more power. It was OK at 300 RWKW but once I was at 350 RWKW it started to slip a little in 5thand 6th gear WOT. Shocks and Springs, too soft stock. Mine might have been an earlier model which had softer rates in it, I recon some of the hire car ones I drove in later years were pretty good in comparison. In fact, remembering back the brakes on those were fine with regard to shudder but fade was an issue although it took quite a bit to fade them (and they were smaller than the turbo ones). From the above description, I don’t think there is much there that is a genuine warranty issue except the bushes and axle tramp and brakes. The rest is just a personal thing chasing a better handling package. Modifications, I tried a fair bit of stuff to get to where it is now, not worth listing it all though. The bit I would like to do extra would be tune for E85, bigger injectors to go with it and a second fuel pump. I just stayed with BP 98 because I like my country driving. Started with a PWR stepped intercooler now running a Nizpro intercooler and piping. Process west surge tank and bosch 044 fuel pump, likely to run 2x 044's in future if I play with E85. Plazmaman battery relocation kit K&N pod filter (the largest I could fit) hidden under a home fabricated stainless air box where the battery used to be. Bead blasted stainless, it looks a lot like the colour of the car (Lightning Strike) ID 1000cc injectors- Might need to go to something larger if I go E85. 4’’ dump pipe from turbo to cat, I fabricated this myself at home 3.5’’ exhaust from cat back 5’’ 100CPI cat (kind of a token gesture of a cat, to me there isn’t much in the 100CPI cat's really) Started out with the GT3576 stock FG turbo, this ran 300rwkw at best, it then developed a bearing noise. I believe this is common so I changed to a GT3582 and installed an Earls oil feed line to prevent the issue happening again (oil starvation due to clogging of the stock filter screen, although I didnt see anything on my screen when I removed it). The GT3582 made 350 rwkw and certainly livened the car up. Finally, I went with a Borg Warner EFR 9180 turbo installed on stock low mount manifold. I like keeping the cars looking as factory as possible. I can't say what power this is making because I have never put it on a dyno since the change. Turbosmart fuel pressure regulator, this was a must, the stock pressure regulator couldn’t relieve the full flow of the Bosch 044 pump which resulted in all sorts of idle quality issues due to the fuel pressure being too high at idle. Mal Wood clutch (Option 5) It is a twin plate with billet flywheel. Atomic engine oil pump. It is common (mainly manuals) for the pump to shatter with high HP applications. No limiter bashing or free revving the engine if you are still running a stock oil pump in a manual falcon. Tuning is being done by me with HP tuners VCM suite Harrop Monoblock brake kit front and rear, these are 355mm rotors all round. I chose these instead of their ultimate kit because they fit under my factory 18’’ wheels (only just). If you get the ultimate kit from them you need to run different wheels. Very happy with these, I have found them excellent in all conditions, quiet never squeal work well hot or cold, importantly no shudder. Tein EDFC Super Steet coilovers, these can be adjusted from the cabin for damping rates. If you feel really tricky they can be set up to change damping rate depending on G forces force on accel and decel and lateral automatically but I don’t use it. They can also adjust depending on speed, again I don’t use it. Mine are just set to middle setting and that is about right for rougher country roads. I have been very happy with the Tein set up. It really transformed the car. I was running Bilstein front shocks, with Koni adjustable rears and king springs. It was better than stock but I was never really happy with it. A side note here, I think lowering these cars much below standard XR6T ride height is actually detrimental to handling, this might be due to me being on rougher country roads but I have never been happy with any of my cars handling if they were too low. I don’t know how much power it makes these days with the EFR turbo on there. I have just tuned it myself on the street. Running about 25 PSI boost from 2500 rpm to redline. It can build boost earlier, say 10psi at 1900 rpm, 15 psi at 2200rpm. Something like that anyway, so for highway cruising it can make plenty enough power in 6th gear to not worry about changing gears while on cruise control. My guess is around 400rwkw as it certainly has a lot more top end than it did with the Gt3582, the old Garrett seemed to nose over at about 4500 RPM. Again only a guess on the power number. The good things stock, Diff, the M86 diffs are plenty strong enough and the LSD has copped plenty of abuse. Tailshaft has been fine in mine, again I dont drop the clutch on it or abuse it too much. Normally put it in a gear and them put the foot down. CV shafts are fine, I think this is the case unless drag racing with slicks and auto trans, street tyres just act as a fuse to protect the tailshaft and CV's. Tremec TR6060 transmission are about as good as you can get, no issues whatsoever Stock unopened engine, no issues there (although I am surprised it has held in there), still stock valve springs at 25psi boost, no issues. I think the issue with valve springs is if trying to run high boost with small turbos the back pressure from a small turbine can hold the exhaust valves from closing causing a miss. It even survived an oil pump failure, just shut it down immediately at the time, pulled it apart and picked all of the chunks of metal out of the sump, a little depressing really. Shot some petrol up the main oil gallery leaving the oil pump with a clean white rag ready to catch what flowed back at me, no metal pieces up there so all good. It has done at least 60,000km since with no issues. I did put together an insurance policy after that experience in the form of a second engine ready to go. It started as an FG N/A engine out of a wreck with only 700km on it. New exhaust valves, some mild port work and better valve seat angles, Atomic rods, cosworth pistons, main girdle, new bearings ect. Ready for the next phase of the cars life. Interior is good Seats are good Words of wisdom, if I was building from scratch again I would have skipped all the intermediate steps along the way and gone straight for the best components I could get first time around.
  34. 3 points
  35. 3 points
    haha, yep, the air will definitely fall back out to the intercooler Quality weld-up job on the inlet manifold. His advice to just buy stuff off hypertune... have to save for months to be able to afford their stuff Only 1650cc injectors going into it When he talked about boosting a V12 1GZ and it had weak rods haha Only have to take out the intercooler and radiator to get the hot side cooler pipe out haha. Nice sleek mods to the radiator top pipe connection and coolant piping stuff. it was a pretty sick episode, as usual
  36. 3 points
    So I'm watching an episode right now and the throttle body is on there upside down. Doesn't that mean that the air will just fall down cos gravity and the car wont run?
  37. 3 points
    Haha I've shifted $2k of parts out the door in just over a week and still have motor, turbo, box in the car! Turns out straight B-series don't come up too often in Canberra for wrecking. The best actual cash in hand ready to go offer I got on the whole car was $3200. Learning heaps along the way too. Engine and box will come out Saturday so more fun to come.
  38. 3 points
  39. 3 points
    This post made it 100% worth while logging back onto the forum [emoji23]
  40. 3 points
    At this point in time and as we have made considerable changes ( Deleted the factory EMS) over the past six months, I cannot confirm if the factory speedo or tacho actually work. The factory dash will mostly be deleted in the near future to fit the IQ3. If it is still working, I will make a video and post it before I make the alterations.
  41. 3 points
  42. 3 points
  43. 3 points
    It's ALIVE !!!!!!! https://imgur.com/uST7NDX
  44. 3 points
    Well first thing is first. Cause I was swapping my rubbish old 4 speed slushmatic out for the T5 an extra pedal was needed. I have no idea whether you could install a new pedal box without removing the dash altogether, it could be possible but I think removing the dash was pretty easy, just a process really. Getting the dash out is actually quite easy. The only problem is that you have to remove a whole heap of trim parts to get to it out. And for some stupid reason Ford decided to integrate the handbrake into the centre console, which I don't really understand cause the handbrake is bolted to the floor and the centre console is held in at enough points to firmly secure it. Anyway, the reason it's a bit painful is that you have to remove the drivers side seat to get to the handbrake bolts so that you can then remove the centre console. So once all the plastic trim parts are removed and the centre console is out there are only something like 8 bolts holding the dash in. They're all pretty easy to get to apart from one which is at at the top of the dash underneath the windscreen. This bolt was a *beep* to get out so I didn't end up putting it back in. I've driven the car a fair bit now since the conversion and there are no rattles or anything so I would recommend leaving it out unless you really want it back in. The electrical system needed to be unplugged but it was easy. Most of the major electrical plugs are in the drivers and passengers kick panels with the only other plugs running to the pedal box, the air con unit and the BCM. There is one sneaky plug on the transmission tunnel near the bolt under the BCM. The pedal box is really easy to get out once the dash is removed. Just 2 wiring harness plugs, 2 nuts securing the box onto the body and 4 nuts securing the box onto the brake booster. Oh and one thing I did right from the start was to label every single nut, screw, bolt, wiring harness plug, pipe, hose, everything. I just used some masking tape and wrote descriptions for each part. One of the best things to do is not only label the part but decribe where it is and which way it goes back on. This was pretty handy on the boost pipes and radiator pipes etc. It feels like overkill when you're taking stuff off but after a few months between removing stuff and putting it back on it was an absolute lifesaver. Believe it or not the only bolt I had left over after the whole conversion was the one I mentioned earlier that mounts the dash behind the windscreen. Apart from that I didn't have any leftover bolts or parts.
  45. 3 points
    had a look outside at the lunar eclipse this morning was more impressive than I thought it would be managed to get a half decent shot after fumbling around in the dark trying to remember how my DSLR camera worked
  46. 3 points
    Thanks mate - we buy them direct from Tactrix (with genuine serial number) and have plenty in local stock for same day dispatch via Express Post at https://www.tiperformance.com.au/products/tactrix-openport-2-0-pcmtec-ecuflash/ Cheers, Jason
  47. 3 points
    Technically we can change the axis of any table to basically anything else. The ultimate plan is to have all of this selectable via the UI. Flex fuel which we are deciding how it will be done will involve the addition of several tables as well. Exciting times!
  48. 3 points
    hey dan, if you want honest advise/service/tune and someone who actually cares about your car pm jet ^ youd be crazy to go anywhere else.
  49. 3 points
    decided to blow away the dust bunnies still looks (and goes) great for a PC that was initially built in 2012 didn't take a "before" shot so you'll just have to imagine dust should be easy for the likes of @Rab
  50. 3 points
    A day off Up to the Tablelands then back down to Port Douglas for a leisurely lunch A cool 25 degrees but nice and sunny
This leaderboard is set to Sydney/GMT+10:00


FordXR6Turbo.com Powered by Invision Community

×