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pdidily6401

boost solenoid fail?

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ok, just about winkled out the problem but just before  I dip back into the mastercard account I thought I would look for a bit of advice, had a problem that I suspected was overboost, bought a boost gauge hooked it up and whaddaya know, -20 hg on idle which is great, cruising and all is good increases to 5 psi when at moderate accelation but hard out jumps straight to about 18-20 psi, wtf I thought, did some searching, removed the hose feeding to the boost solenoid and ran a closed loop from the turbo outlet straight to the wastegate actuator, repeated and it never went over 7psi, engine ran awesome right round to 5500 before changing gear, ok I though, remove solenoid, off to ford shop where they quoted me 200 plus gst ex auckland, googled them up and can get ex aussie off ebay for about 42 dollars, all good, thought before I will do it, try the carb cleaner and wd forty trick, did so bolted back on, checked pipes were connected correctly and same issue, way too high boost. Sooooo am I in the right track here, do I buy another boost solenoid ex ebay or am I missing something, forgot to mention, after wd 40 process hooked up to battery and bench tested blowing through tube and solenoid clicks and closed diverting air to what looks like the black cover at bottom of solenoid, any help guys before I spend more, am thinking if not the solenoid then maybe the ecu has been mapped to some crazy boost pressure for a previous motor.

forgot to mention, BA mk1 , bought with blown motor, number one conrod out side of motor.

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well, it certainly sounds like the previous tune it had in it grenaded the motor, which is now causing you to overboost massively. If it's stock, I'd be taking it straight to a tuner to put a stock tune back in and then check with the current solenoid and if it works, you don't need to buy a new solenoid. If it doesn't work, then a replacement solenoid is a good starting point.

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You've shown that the solenoid works so it either isn't getting a signal at all (broken wire or pin/plug issue etc), the tune is asking for mondo boost or perhaps something else is going on.

 

Maybe I'm remembering wrong but doesn't the boost solenoid wiring start on a separate plug on the passenger side near the pcm?

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hmmm  mine is on the drivers side below the fuse box, but will give ford a call tomorrow and see if I can book it in for a retune to standard, no good tuners that I am aware of in Blenheim, nearest I think will be chch.

Again thanks guys, will keep you posted.

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ok thanks, I notice I have one connection coming out of the front of the ecu housing on the passenger side that does not have a connection to it, could this be it? perhaps I have not connected something up when I put the engine in. looks like just a two wire connection and was folded in under the housing.

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does seem likely that it's not connected... the loom goes from the 3rd plug on the ECU over the front rail and down under the fuse box to the actual solenoid. I'd follow it all of the way with wire continuity testing to ensure that's not your problem.

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ok so where I am at, just to be sure I am on the right track have replaced both lines to and from the boost solenoid with 4mm vacuum lines, no change, removed and cleaned with wd40 and replaced the boost pressure sensor, no change, so have bit the bullet and bought a turbo smart 7psi wastegate actuator which I intend to start the replacement process tonight, rough plan, car on ramps, remove turbo piping, think I have to loosen k plate but not remove, remove exhaust dump manifold, then should be piece of cake to remove old actuator and replace, only issue looks to be perhaps the c clip but will see how we go. Also when I hooked up the line to the wastegate actuator I could relatively easily blow through the line , tried it with the new actuator from TS and no way I could get any air through it.

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On 12/09/2018 at 3:18 PM, pdidily6401 said:

ran a closed loop from the turbo outlet straight to the wastegate actuator, repeated and it never went over 7psi,

This tells us that the diaphragm in the wastegate is fine or at least isn't completely stuffed.

 

2 hours ago, pdidily6401 said:

I hooked up the line to the wastegate actuator I could relatively easily blow through the line

This tells us that the diaphragm is stuffed.

 

You could run a hose again like the first time, chuck a noid light on the (extended to the cabin) wiring and see if the solenoid is getting a signal.

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now that sounds pretty sharp, assume here I am going to splice into one of the two wires that runs to the solenoid, any idea which as one should be power in and one running to earth. Once I get home will give this a crack, hopefully one has a black stripe or similar to identify as running to earth., assume it will be 12v so will use a bulb with power in and running to earth yes, and if solenoid is working I should see the light come on when I exceed 5psi.

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4 minutes ago, pdidily6401 said:

any idea which as one should be power in and one running to earth. 

 

Nope but wouldn't matter for a light. A multimeter could help out with working out what does what and if you've got a deadly one then you could probably use that instead of a light to measure duty cycle.

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ok, did what was suggested and hooked up the multimeter but now more questions, had 14.22 volts as standard the moment I turned the key was at 12.4 (battery) then turned on car voltage jumped to 14.22, (alternator kicking in), I  hooked into the white and red as pink was 12 volt constant  and white and red wire showed no voltage when I checked prior to patching  the multimeter in, took it for a run and it only dropped to just over zero voltage as the boost started then quickly built back up to 14 plus volts, url link of video below, is a bit shaky but you get the idea.

 

and duh, just realised that there was a link to measure duty cycle, will see if my multi can do it, if not will take it to work and get the sparkies one hooked up tomorrow.

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I watched your clip. I think the multimeter wasn't updating frequently enough to give decent info as the solenoid is a fairly high frequency (33hz?) on/off affair. I also think the zero's that we saw should be ignored as they weren't consistent with the first acceleration event. 

 

You'd think, that as a fail safe, the solenoid would be open with no power, so if that's the case, if you're getting voltage constantly then that would explain it boosting to the moon.

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ok but given all of the above comments, are we all still of the opinion given I can blow down the line to the wastegate actuator with no issue and continue this constantly,  that the seal is broken on the factory one and I may as well go ahead and do the change to the 7psi tuborsmart bolt on I have on the bench?

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On 12/09/2018 at 3:18 PM, pdidily6401 said:

I thought, did some searching, removed the hose feeding to the boost solenoid and ran a closed loop from the turbo outlet straight to the wastegate actuator, repeated and it never went over 7psi,

 

This statement contradicts that.

 

In saying that, plenty of people don't understand or communicate various failures properly which usually causes faulty diagnosis. Haha I have seen this quite often and even have had people tell me that I didn't need to "check the plugs" only to find out they were fouled.

 

I think swapping the wg will make no difference but if there's a known good one sitting there it will only cost a bit of time to find out.

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yup, bought new 4mm vacuum hose yesterday and tested all so confident its not that, did this before I went for the run with the multimeter, and checked both actuators with the new hose and could still keep blowing through the current one on the car.

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It's possible that the actuator was in the process of failing and has since failed but that still doesn't account for it overboosting when the solenoid is plugged in.

 

Is there some tune related stuff going on?

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that is really the only other thing I can think of, am still going to change out the actuator starting later today, hopefully should be able to do it without removing the first part of the exhaust but if I have to then so be it, once all done will see how it goes, if still doing the same thing then off to Ford to get the ecu returned to stock, I think this will be about the 150 mark, funny though as plan was to put the motor in this car, get it all running then upgrade to better hp then pull out and in the xf it goes, lock stock and barrel, thinking now I know a bit more once I get this sorted and running good will onsell and look for a later model motor, box and wiring combo for the project.

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If you've got stock parts then that'll be fine.

 

If you can find someone near you then it'll cost nothing to do a read with hp tuners and find out if the tune is stock or not.

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