Peppy can tune?

[Peppy_t92]

That's what it's all about Skidxr6t, it's a passion for me and I love doing it, the day it becomes a chore is the day I stop.. I already have a full time business so all of this is a bonus and it's amazing how many people are happy to wait until I have time to help with their setup..

I'm working on some pretty heavy hitters at the moment which once complete will hopefully open people's eyes about the HP Tuners software and what it can do with the right input

You do your own work to don't you? With the SOHC motors?

[camo86T]

Pretty sure the only work that @skidxr6t does in cars with pushrod sohc or dohc motors is..........skids  

 

Joe you may be thinking of eff xr6t

[skidxr6t]

oh yeah that's totally accurate camo86t. skid stands for =create more work for mechanic.

 

me working on cars also generally creates more work for mechanic.

 

I am curious to learn more about engines and cars in general but it always involves me breaking something. I've always worked on my own motorbikes though, I find taking apart a bike engine is way less daunting than removing a turbo on an xr6t.

[Ralph Wiggum]

I really should start a similar thread. Mine would be less about making HP #'s and more about fixing other shops fuckups and making obscure combo's work.

IE I've just been asked to come on board as the tuner for a Patrol engine conversions program a shop here is putting together.

 

But I lack the Discipline/Time to maintain the thread.

[MattyP]

I like this thread a lot 

 

You interested in working on 3sgtes haha

[Peppy_t92]

Ahh, my bad, I was thinking off Effxr6t.. but haha fair call skids

You can do it ralphy, il love to see your handy work, its people like yourself, Jet and toads, trans that initially helped me with the falcons..

I hope I'm not just giving off the feel that I'm all about power, my sole aim when tuning is drivability, I will spend 80% of the time tuning idle, light throttle/cruise, as well as fixing shops stuff ups, overlooks, or just laziness.. I just don't want to go into that side of it because these shops are some of the biggest in the game and the last thing I want is them thinking that I'm slandering them, or taking their work... have you ever seen a shop work on an SD table? Neither have I lol, I suspect some wouldn't even know how... are you talking about Barra conversions or working with the diesels?

Haha I think we spoke about this long ago Matty?, still not finished? I'll happily help in spirit but don't have the time to dedicate to something new like that

[Ralph Wiggum]

1 hour ago, Ralph Wiggum said:

I really should start a similar thread. Mine would be more about fixing other shops fuckups and making obscure combo's work.

IE I've just been asked to come on board as the tuner for a Patrol engine conversions program a shop here is putting together.

 

But I Discipline/Time to maintain the thread.

 

^reworded because Peppy's posts are most certainly not just about HP and Dyno sheets.

 

Sorry Pep. I worded that poorly and it didn't convey my point.

 

I'm also not about bashing other tuners, nor am I about smoke and mirrors and magic juju beans when it comes to tuning. I'll happily share my tunes and even had the files over to the owner when the job it done.

 

Converting TD30 grenades to Barra motors Pep. The shop owner does heavy mech work (building diffs etc) on the barra powered Patrol I tune. He wants to build competitively priced na and turbo conversions for people that have had a TD30 go pop. My part will be tuning and helping to resolve some of the interface issues between the motor and body electronics. I'm not sure how much of that I'd be willing to share as I have a heap of time and $'s invested in those solutions that I'm not willing to give away at this stage.

 

/threadjack

 

I love the work your doing and the approach your taking mate. Keep it up!

[MattyP]

Still having crazy blow by but comp test is good across all 4 and makes awesome power on e85! 

 

I think I may need to hire you on retainer, probably cheaper that way

 

But yeah I love this thread haha

[boegey]

Dads pride and joy is is FG GTP, it's the first of the series 2's and he bought it when they first came out..

He has had his days of spending money modifying cars so he's more then happy with how the car is, completely stock... I convinced him to let me play with it, so I installed a replacement k&n filter and just gave it a basic tune to increase throttle response, touch up the ZF and maybe give it some more boost haha.. for those that don't know, these cars are limited to 60* throttle angle, instead of the max available 83*).. the intercooler setup, or lack there of was the let down, with Intake air temps soaring, so I was conservative... it went 12.1@116 with a lazy 2.4 60", just on the standard Dunlop tyres and driving it off the line, (he didn't want to break anything)

Almost 3 years with the tune and it's still going strong, he drives it most weekends, and isn't exactly gentle with it

https://vimeo.com/185887598

https://vimeo.com/185887662

Give your dad a hi-5 for dropping a fat skid haha nice car but top work pep loving the thread

[Peppy_t92]

Last week I changed a set of springs and valve stem seals in a BF, I realised once I had already started that it might help to show people how I do it and the importance on changing the seals at the same time now that cars are getting older..

Now everyone has their own way to do it and their are different tools available.. I use the Atomic valve spring tool and a few other general hand tools

firstly a few things have to come off to get the rocker cover off, (crossover, garnish, throttle body on b series) I also take the spark plugs out

Once all that's off and you have exposed the valvetrain start to look for the timing marks on the cam gears, it's a simple little dot on each one, if you turn the motor you will find that their are 4 coloured links (I believe they are yellow or green, im colourblind so whatever works haha) two are closer together then the others, the closer ones belong down the bottom and line up with the crank sprocket, basically you need to turn the motor until the two marks on the cam gears are both at 12:00 with the coloured chain links directly above them.. you can do this by hand with a spanner or socket on the crank bolt, or I use a jumper wire to trigger the starter relay, as in the pictures.. it can take up to 37 rotations to get the marks to line up, in which case you realise it would have been better to just turn the motor backwards haha... you can get the motor to TDC without the marks but it's much easier to put back together if you spend a few minutes lining everything up before removing the sprockets





As I said I started taking photos part way through so I don't have as many pictures as I would have liked.. but your a smart bunch, and know what's going on.. you can see the coloured links and marks on the cam gears in this pic which is the next step, I unbolt the cam gears and cable tie them to the timing case, they can be removed but this is easier and less room for error IMO





Next I mark the cam saddles, this is important as they aren't all equal, they have been line honed and will only work correctly the way they are originally installed, I make it a habit to mark them, just a quick stamp in the same spot so I know where they go



Now everything can be removed, remember to loosen the saddles equally to avoid snapping a bolt or bending a cam or saddle.. I find it easiest to place everything in the order which they came out





This motor has 150,000km on it and looks like it has been neglected through it's life.. anyway, next I give each retainer a quick tap with a socket and extension to loosen everything up to make sure they come off first go

Also make sure to put a rag in the throttle body hole, in each oil return on the intake side and in the timing cover, this is your last line of defence lol

I use crow springs and never had a problem, I test them on the bench befre install and they are always perfect, I have tested the ones in my car 3 times over the past 3 years and they are still the same as they were out of the box.. let me say that not all springs are equal, a certain intercooler company sell them and are good for a lot of combos but I have changed them out for crow sets recently in a few of the bigger builds I'm doing as they have lost tension





Install the tool and place some air in the cylinder, you don't need a lot of pressure, just enough to hold the valve closed, 20-40psi generally does it, if it's a manual, throw it in gear, if it's auto sometimes you'll need to put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and wedge it so the motor doesn't want to move once the cylinder is pressurised

That's it, go through and do all the springs, it's fiddley, stressful and time consuming, not much you can do about it lol, I find a dab of grease on the collets helps them stick to the valve and makes your life much easier!

As I mentioned earlier on the older cars or cars with higher kms I change the valve stem seals too, these stop oil from the head seap or get sucked into the port under vacuum conditions (idle, cruise) which creates white smoke out the exhaust.. the seal gets hard and brittle over time and extreme temperatures, it's easy to change while changing the springs, so why not



I just reach in with a set of ultra long nose pliers and wiggle them off



The left one came of the car and the right is a new genuine item

Another important thing is to bleed down the lifters before putting them back in, otherwise you risk valves staying open when you first start up the car, yes they will bleed down themselves eventually, or you can have a crisp clean start first go just by separating the lifter from the rocker and squeezing it in a vice or press, this pushes out all the oil from inside making it soft again and will then pump up once oil pressure is applied when the car is started

Put everything back together, I have made a tool out of weld rod to help release and hold the timing chain tensioner, I'll have to get a photo, it's just a bent up piece of weld rod with a point on the end, have a look on YouTube for the atomic video showing how the tensioner works if you like..

That's it, ensuring everything is lined up and installed as it was, turn the motor over by hand a couple times to be sure and it's ready

This car will be getting done of my x-spurt injectors, a tune and a few other goodies in the next couple of weeks