My two times were not done on the same night, so can't be of DIRECT comparrison, the dyno runs were done on the same day though, within 5 mins of each other. Once I have backed up both tunes at the track, I'll post up a bit of an article. .

When I get new tyres ( shortly ) and my manifold fixed ( leaky turbo on wogs run ) then I'll run them back to back on the same night..

I can see/feel the difference throughout the rpm range, and both have to be 'worked' differently to get the best out of them.

time......... not that I have alot spare of atmo..

Basically the fundamental diffrence between Edit and Piggy back. All in the "how" the power is delvered.

Exactly.

Hi All;

This is my first post on this forum, but I couldn't resist this topic. I have a 2004 MKI T5 XR6T which I purchased second hand in October last year. Been checking the site since then and have learnt a lot. You guys are obviously passionate about these cars.

Jordak this is a great topic for someone like me looking at options for modifications. I have decided on the edit, but from wat I can tell not all edits are the same and you have very clearly shown the options here.

My preference would be for option B, maybe with a slightly lower peak power of about 240 rwkw. For a given speed (RPM) the engine can only deliver more power through an increase in torque, and this is shown via the higher boost pressures. The reason I got an XR6T was as an alternative to the more expensive XR8 (more than happy with the T though), so this "torqueness" and in gear "low down" power I think would simulate this nicely.

Again great site

Cheers Matt

Hi All;

This is my first post on this forum, but I couldn't resist this topic.  I have a 2004 MKI T5 XR6T which I purchased second hand in October last year.  Been checking the site since then and have learnt a lot.  You guys are obviously passionate about these cars.

Jordak this is a great topic for someone like me looking at options for modifications.  I have decided on the edit, but from wat I can tell not all edits are the same and you have very clearly shown the options here. 

My preference would be for option B, maybe with a slightly lower peak power of about 240 rwkw.  For a given speed (RPM) the engine can only deliver more power through an increase in torque, and this is shown via the higher boost pressures.  The reason I got an XR6T was as an alternative to the more expensive XR8 (more than happy with the T though), so this "torqueness" and in gear "low down" power I think would simulate this nicely.

Again great site

Cheers Matt

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

option b = goodbye t5

I was talking to the guy from CAPA at the Summernats and he reckons that tuners (didn't say what ones) are telling him that a custom tune (presumably on an otherwise stock XRT) is only gaining about 3kw compared to a generic out of the box tune.

xrboss8

The T5 is a concern and that's why I would want to limit max power to about 240rwkw. However, I think you are correct in that the T5 will be the limiting factor in my modification journey, maybe I'll end up with something in between option A option B.

Cheers

Matt.

xrboss8

The T5 is a concern and that's why I would want to limit max power to about 240rwkw.  However, I think you are correct in that the T5 will be the limiting factor in my modification journey, maybe I'll end up with something in between option A option B.

Cheers

Matt.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The whole point of the topic is to get people thinking about what they want (other than maximum power) before they get a custom tune. I guess in your case it's served it's purpose.

Any decent tuner with adequate experience with manual T's should be able to give you a tune somewhere between A & B that's safe for the T5 and clutch.

Any decent tuner with adequate experience with manual T's should be able to give you a tune somewhere between A & B

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

In theory....................... With all things being created equal, and all parts being accomadating.

I can now pretty much pick out a C&V tune, Extreme tune and a Nizpro tune, generally by looking at the graphs.

Have a look around at the ones posted up, they all have the same tell tale tendancies.

Edited January 9, 200620 yr by F6 UTE

so when I get my car tuned shortly, I should be looking for a dyno print out that looks more like the "B" map.

Is that correct? or do I tell the tuner what I would like to see?

so when I get my car tuned shortly, I should be looking for a dyno print out that looks more like the "B" map.

Is that correct? or do I tell the tuner what I would like to see?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You always tell the tuner what you want.

You pay for exactly that!! ( CUSTOM ) tune remember....

Watch it get run up stock, have a look at it, they tune. They chat with you and tell them your limits of boost/afr's ( If u have any ) then look at the graph when finished.

They should be able to maipulate the curve to suit your driving style. I like mid range puch, so Tune B is good. For the drags, Tune A is probably a bit better as you won't go up in smoke off the line.

They can adjust boost tables etc to bring it on sooner/later or adjust boost per % of throttle position, so you can have a progressive wallop, or get full boost from 10% throttle position. Full boost from 10% or so is too touchy on the foot and doesn't allow too much for sedate driving styles. Full boost from 10% throttle feels quicker, but it's not ( Tune B )

It's all about what you like and want, so know what you want before you pay for something and get delivered what you don't. Make sense??

Sorry, getting late.