South

You took a massive hit in the side, your going to be sore for a week at minimum. Also I would put money on you needing to see a physio at some stage for a bit of muscle work. You might aswell eat jelly beans over nurofen, they taste good but do nothing to help, which as you know nurofen isnt

I kept with the tried and true, and filled it with Toyota Red. I'm very surprised for how small the cooling system is in capacity. I swear the EF radiator was twice the size of the BA. Good time to tighten the cooler pipes too, runs cooler and goes harder now. Excellent result!

WD40 on everything under the hood, then wipe it with a cloth, don't leave pools of WD40 around. Will look all shiny and new again.

That R8 has been sitting there for a while now. It looks f'ing MAD! I drive by it every day, its so low... I'd take it over the crappy Ferrari's that are next door.

That Truck/Van owner must have deep pockets, imagine the fuel costs for touring, 3-4km/L or there abouts!

19s look so damn small on FG's!

Hey Fellas, What are peoples recommendations on coolant, in the past I have used Toyota Red in my cars, just after feedback on any other brands Also what is the capacity of our cooling system, is it 16L? Cheers South

05 BA MKII, bought with 51k kms on it two years ago, managed to only drive it 17k kms in that time, with about 2k kms only done this year.

Is the sugar/salt really a major concern these days? We have a sock filter attached to the pump, then a really fine filter in the line, that should be more than ample to catch grains. Besides wouldnt salt/sugar disolve in petrol, isnt ethanol sugar based? How much damage could it potentially do, how would it do it, and is it any worse than getting a dodgy tank of fuel from a crapola servo?

Its normal, the hum changes pitch as the revs rise, and then 2nd gear engages and there is no more hum, or when you change down from 2nd to 1st and you get the hum from high pitch to low pitch.

You all must live in real dodgy areas for having to need a lockable cap!?!?! I've got 300L worth of Ultimate Diesel sitting in the landcruiser, the buggers would still be there in the morning if they tried to pinch it.

Get a mini bobcat, dig away part of the hill and make a level parking bay directly off the road, two bays wide. Put up a brick or limestone wall and then level the ground, get a concrete truck to pour the slab. DIY it

It needs to get used to its new surrounds, prove that its around and then it should settle down a bit. Little dogs are bastards for making noise though. The idiot above that wet the dog whilst it was a chilly night should be shot! Cruelty to animals if f'ing stupid!

How is a car with 120+ kms on the clock on its last legs?!?! If you think the engine is clapped out with those km's then your bonkers! Most people are going to modify the suspension so that's sorted. Most people will get bigger rims and tyres so that's sorted. Most people will change brakes for better stopping power so that's sorted. Most people will modify the engine in terms of intake/exhaust/tune so that's sorted Our cars should piss in 250k kms with ease, overhaul parts when required, but that is the same for any vehicle. My EF Fairmont was the same between 150k kms and 270k kms, it had the usual mods and replacement of bits and bobs. I expect my Landcruiser to survive past 500k kms, and its only got 100k on the clock now. XCH45R, you should get many years of happiness with your new beast!

Tuned XR's stick out like dogs balls, big shiny cooler on the front, loud intake, and moderate exhaust noise is a massive yell out for I'm tuned! Any car that gets pulled over has the potential to be taken off the road, and its going to be far easier to pluck a supercharger than it is going to be to return a tuned XR to stock. I guess people don't like being unique anymore, and when someone challenges others ideals they get shot down. There is no fixed boost, it also rises as revs increase to a static limit, change the pulley and add other supporting parts an you can increase the boost. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isnt that what we do with out turbs, gee wiz it is. If you want a fast car, build it the way you want it, not the way others think it should be done.

Ignore the chumps above, get an air-air kit and tromp them initally at the lights. You will have a fatter bottom end than us Turbo drivers will. Nothing wrong with being unique, and once you install it, I bet all the boys n girls will want a piece of that whiny supercharger noise your going to have.

mechanical gauges brings whatever its measuring into the gauge, so if its boost then there is an airline coming into the car, if its oil then there is an oil line coming into the car. Can have disaterous results if the line splits. Electrical will use a sensor at the source to bring the measurements over wire. Safest, but most expensive.

Some of this is piss funny! I cracked a rib whilst on the ski biscuit, came off on the whip and we were flogging it, heard it crack as I was smashed into the water... jumped back in and kept going for the rest of the day in pain, it was about 5 weeks of constant pain! slight movement triggered agony! Compressed my neck in high school during gym, landed head first into a foam pit, heard that crunch too! I can hear my skull crunch on my neck when I move side to side, and this was about 14yrs ago! My back is rooted from it... Most recent is a Sun Server heatsink attacked my thumb, razor sharp heat sink, I have 8 paper thin cuts on my thumb. It looks cool, but it hurt like buggery!

As further above, order from the USA over Ebay, they will easily be half price. I got the carbon fibre range boost and EGT, full sweep electric for my 'cruiser. Cost me less to buy both from the USA, than it did for one from Australia.

GSS-340 is best suited, it has the biggest opening.

I spoke with Bailey's when they did my trans service, and from what he was saying, they have quiet a few billet parts that they have had 're-engineered' over the years, and they heat treat this that and the other... They have put a lot of time into these boxes, but either way I wouldnt be spending that kind of money on a box either, but that's just me.

I'm pretty sure this would have been the first time mine were off, 65k on the clock and 4yrs new. Smashed the absolute crap out of the rotors though, dings all over them! Now I have the brakes the car should have had from standard, Brembo 4 pot all round. Got more bleeding to do though, flushed the hole system it took a litre of fluid to come through clean and then another 250ml to bleed, not quite done yet, bit spongy :(

Thanks for the tips guys. I've flamed them even more, and soaked with more WD40. One side is off and done, the other side needs a little more love from the hammer. What a *beep* of a job!

Hey fellas, Whats the best technique to remove the rear rotors when they are stuck fast, have a nice amount of corrosion built up that I have carved off, used a flame thrower already, and covered them with WD40 and still will not budge even with a hammer. cheers

My car moves only a couple of times a month... So when the opportunity for Brembos came up, I said I wanted them, she said oh is that because your current ones have rusted as they dont get used, I agreed and that was that, Brembos are on now It also helps to have a seperate bank account, a fun account that only you can access. Also helps to not open the bonnet when they are around, if they dont know what stock engine bay looks like, then that nizpro/plazmaman/PW plennum will just look normal to them...