stealthxr

if going to do it , also slide the hat off the caliper and repack the slides with grease It is also a good idea not to ever top up brake fluid as The L and H marks are good indicators of brake wear, when your pads are all new with caliper piston retracted the level should be on H and as the brakes wear the level will drop towards L . But you should change the oil every 50k or after a track day for example..

Go to this link NSW MARITIME . And complete the online course for $11.. print the certificate and go sit your test at any maritime office.. IMO the course is O.K..Just done it........ if its first time on the water as boat driver take someone with experience with you to show you the in's and out's of being on the water ! Or do a tutored course at a price ! Pete

Nick... Mine has been going strong for a long time manual too , the real thing that actually smashes pump gears is oil operating temp and viscosity at cold temps A respected engine builder has shown me and explained why this happens. its been proved by a few incidents ive seen to too! I bet you talk to some of the guys that have smashed theirs it will be near start-up and high in the rev range during that first 10 min.. The gauge I look at quite regularly is oil temp, forget the water temp gauge , it gets up pretty quick compared to the oil temp the thicker it is the harder to pump The oil temps need to get at least 10 to 15 min of normal driving under boost ...I got an oil cooler so I takes a bit longer on colder days ! qik1 ... 7 grand that's some big revs for this engine bud ... I think BCL's car would be one of the only that would spin at this RPM safley (just) with his custom Crank if your tuner has told you its the only fix for your shifts, You should probably be looking for another opinion. DRTYBOOST it sounds like a pump if you shut it down fast enough, there should be very minimal or no damage , change the pump and and get some Billet gears for it , but if you are going that far you might consider a freshen up.. rods bearings and rings! hope it works out either way mate pete

Bit late sorry mate

Just a little bit more of a sneak peak.. here is the set, had a good night, even got a couple of sly photos , security was pretty minimal , the setup was pretty much the same as the U.K version, for the first episode they test 3 4wd's , xtrail, subi and some toyota, the also tested they new Porsche Carrera S, and give a little spiel on the new Lambo 540 4x , both the porsche and lambo were is the Hanger so were the 4WD's . plus some banged up crappy cars, episode 2 is supposedly Ford Vs Holden so cant wait for that 1... Vince Colosimo is the first celeb to do the Camden airport track 1 with a 1min 34, the stig done it in 1min 11 with what I think was a red Proton.. The Stig did not make an appearance thou... Not Happy..

Here is the part No AGSP22Z11

so true, how goods that

Get yourself the F6 ones if you are going to get a new set

according to my Tickets its a no go for the camera DAM that sux

Dam I wanted to go to the saturday 1 as well, we are going on thursdsay night at bankstown airport , cant wait yee hah

Considering there was a change when you gapped the plugs I would assume that your problem lies there , Have you got the right plugs in there ? the NGK Part No is BKR6EIX and the F6 ones are Part No PN AGSP22Z11 the F6 ones are the way to go BTW ....Are your coil packs in good working order, is the wiring to the coil packs in good nick ? Is the grommet that seals the crossover to the throttle body split anywhere, you said the tips of your plugs looked "lean" .., you might also have an air leak somewhere.. good luck dude I still pretty sure that it is plug related, go for the factory ones to be certain Pete

I only use the OEM F6 plugs gapped at .75 never had an Issue, But that's me..... But I have seen many cars with these NGK plugs at around the 1.0 mark and they done exactly the same thing and most were stock cars, gapped the plugs to .75 and it made all the difference. Ps you cant go past the F6 type plugs on these cars. Anywayz its a no cost fix and worth a shot . Pete

Mate Id be looking at that gap and decreasing it to about .75 or .80, Check all your coils too, make sur they are seated correctly and the rubbers are in place ! what your saying does not sound like a fuel problem , But change the filter for piece of mind ! Peter

post-intercooler boost sensor.. It will good to see what will happen with the gas set-up, you can put heaps of timing in with LP Gas.

Im with you mate... Its gonna be a big night, I email'd the french and swiss and asked them to hold off till Monday Im waiting for em get back to me Mick..

As the DBOSS sings it .....up up your mother the boys black white and blue yeah yeah... Was that 40years without a premiership, it will another 40 before you get one anyway.... Go the DRAGONS , im just spewing that we aint playing this the sharkies this week , we just gotta annihilate the eagles I will just STFU now , LOL :wacko:

lol

Y sould run 10s.... all day, only if you stall it up bro :biglaugh:

why not .... close to home

watch out them ones are for Pre AU falcons

Im with hiddeous, has the car been tuned ? did pistons get changed ? If your pistons were not changed, your tuner has probably tapered the boost down to preserve the motor with the comp you have 10:3:1, the turbo engine is 8:7:1, so id think that the engine will ping with any more than that amount of boost without the right fuel.

thanks dags, Im safe at work again...

It looks awesome... I always read the previous set-up in work-safe mode. so tis aint much different .. you see the avatars now thou. heaps easier to read as well. Is there going to be the option of work-safe anymore !

the tailshaft is the same between NA and turbo 5 speeds ,....the turbo diff is LSD thou all input shafts on turbo t5/na t5 and 6 T56 are the same with fine spline shafts. If upgrading to a t56 you have to change the yoke and crosmember , and as said before wire in the reverse lockout solenoid.

That engine sounds healthy as.. cant wait to see the thing go well done buddy.