Phoontastic

I think BP might be the only company that guarantees the quality of its fuel at the point of delivery. That's good enough for me. Pity they don't produce E85!

So Veva, is the fix for the diff the True Trac? Or is there something to do with the crownwheel and pinion?

What an awesome effort I have to say. 1.68 60 foot is great so you must have a good launch technique. Sounds like a top day so enjoy the moment........now what's next for mods?

Top post Ryno. This is recommended reading for anyone who wants to understand their numbers at the strip.

Tunehouse do their own conversion and it ends up looking like it came out with it from the factory: Here's the engine oil cooler; Holes have been drilled in the plastic wheel arch cover to promote airflow through the core. Done after the photo). And here's the ZF cooler ZF cooler also runs a thermatic fan which was installed after the photo was taken. These coolers have been in for 18 months and there have been no issues with the gearbox. Cold changes are just the same as warm changes......firm but fair

Sure, and you're doing the right thing by asking around. My point is not to have cost as the only criteria for the correct path to follow. It's a balance of cost, quality of product and quality of service. The site sponsors are a great starting point. Good luck, and keep us posted on how you go.

There's no shortcuts and no such thing as a cheap tune in the long run. You get what you pay for, so if you want to play, be prepared to pay. Kit does good, strong, smooth and safe tunes, and takes the time to get it right.

Ridgey, I have found Tunehouse to be excellent. Their attention to detail is first class, and they're very customer focused. Remember that you get what you pay for.

HIDs suck balls in the factory lenses. I've just removed mine as the light output was crap. Very little penetration and too much spread (don't go there). Having gone back to the halogens which are much more focused, the difference is huge and so much better. For anyone contemplating going to HIDs, don't waste your money.

The Atomic 698 is certainly a good way to go. As the other guys have said, the ZF can comfortably handle 450 - 500rwkw after a rebuild so stick with it if you're only going to 450rwkw. I'd also consider a good exhaust such as the Tunehouse 4" job. It is made in OZ, top shelf quality, fits perfectly, doesn't drone, sounds awesome, and gives great midrange and peak power. If you're going to take it to the drags I'd also recommend a surge tank. As far as tailshafts go, if you're considering full boost launches then send the tailshaft to Mal Wood for a beefing up job. When it comes back it will handle the power no problem. As far as halfshafts, CVs and cages I'd change them for the Albins units, just for insurance. Some say it's not necessary but you might want peace of mind......you wouldn't be the first to blow one. Good luck buddy, there's heaps of options around.

It's called 'Human error'. Whether you're wearing a uniform or a G string and tassles, we all make them. Sometimes the consequences are zero, sometimes the consequences are horrendous. We shouldn't judge the error by the outcome. I doubt very much that she intended any bad outcome from the decision she made. I'm sure we've all done something pretty stupid in our driving careers, only most of the time we get away with it, so I wouldn't be too judgemental. Cars keep getting safer and safer, but they're still driven by the Mark 1 Human. Hence the need for radar collision avoidance technology. Had such a device been fitted, the accident would most likely not have occurred. Passenger aircraft have had it for years. It's about time cars (and bikes) had it too. The cost benefit argument world wide is overwhelming.

Hope the Summernats doesn't follow suit!! Dyno comp is already a non-event. Next V8 SC will require all racecars to be hybrids to minimise their carbon footprint I wonder what other initiatives they will come up with the draw in the crowds?

So just to summarise, I'm hearing that the Stage 4 cams are not really suited to any iteration of a modified GT3582, but would most likely work well on a GT42 or larger. Is this the general thinking? I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Mate, I highly recommend Tein, Nolathane and Whiteline to help make the taxi handle. Once you've done these upgrades you will definitely be happy with the handling of the beast. No GTR but still respectable and a bundle of fun, all day, every day.

Mate, 27mm front bar is good, 30mm is better. Rear bar works good too. I'd recommend you go adjustable on both. Beware the stock front links though. Mine kept breaking until I converted to the heavy duty Whiteline bardies that you can cut to length. No dramas since using these bad boys.