PozzE

Old... But still good...

Ethanol or Methanol here we come... Hey if it was good enough for Mad Maxx...

Good point...

I aggree 100% You could argue that you didn't pay attention if a truck is all of a sudden comming the other way. But we all know not every road situation can be anticipated. I can already see now black box's being made to "bend" the speedo signal to the ECU

I'm not saying the following applies to anyone here... But I'm so sick of hearing about people b**ch about the price of petrol. Think about it, an 8c rise in petrol for a 60L tank is less than 5 bucks. If you can't afford a $5 extra rise in your living expenes then you are living way too close to the line, and clearly you've got bigger problems. I just laugh now when the guy in front of me paying at the servo has a whinge about how little pertol he gets now for $20 and how its soo bloody hard for battlers, then buys a carton of smokes as well. Priorities. I've probably stirred up some by saying that, but its what I think.

I think the idea is F It has been brought up in Vic before and even the RACV gave it the thumbs down... Having said that my GF has just brought a Turbo Megane and it comes with a programable speed limiter, instead of a speed alarm. I can see now it's never going to get used. What would be good is if you could set it and lock it with a password. Then if your kids or mechanic had the car, 50k's for you!

I've just had Ultimates put on with DBA rotors and am more than happy.

This might be a dumb question, but I'm asking cause I don't know. How often should you change the plugs?

This is just a line level converter yeah? Looks like you'd need two to take care of front and rear signals. I personally don't like high to low converters because when you have amps, your signal goes from high to low then high again, each time getting worse in quality. This isn't good seeing the ICC is prone to be noisy anyway. I like ASL Logistics solution better, they modify the ICC to get line level level outputs, you end up with RCA's comming out of it. Course it would be better if they came from the factory like that...

Today Tonight is great... it's exactly the same as Frontline... oh hang on... Today Tonight is meant to be serious...

Isn't the rear demister element coated??? I always thought they had plastic/polymer over the wire... could be wrong Anyway too much wine tonight to think about electrochemical series...

The only place the metal film makes a difference is on the rear window, as the demister element doubles as the AM aerial... So as XXXR6T said unless your a talk back fan who can't stand static on the odd occasion, it doesn't matter much.

The GTI as been given the a$$ because of waiting times... But the list has grown... She's now looking at the Renault, the HSV Astra and the XR5 can you guess which one I hope she goes for...

Back brakes are standard, and I don't think I'll change them until the rotors need changing. When I did mine, I was more after fixing my brake problems than improving/uprgrading my braking, but after having them on the car for a while, there is a good difference. The brakes seem to grip earlier and they have a more even feel to them. I've found myself pulling up a bit harder than I was expecting to when stopping at the lights... Once again well worth the cash

I kept having brake shudder issues as well. Everytime I took it in they just kept machining them down, and the brake shudder kept comming back. I had the "upgraded" Ford pads fitted didn't really help apart from making the brakes squeal like a b*$ch... I just gave up in the end, and had a set of DBA4000 slotted rotors put on the fronts and Benedix Ultimates for the pads. Money well spent I reckon

Yeah tried to convince her at the motor show... but doesn't like it, but then again I can't get her out of the T on the weekends... ah well We're booked in for a test drive of a Turbo Renault Megane on Saturday

That looks schmick I was thinking of doing similar but wanted to photoshop it first to see... I was looking at a blood red, on my HgAg, maybe off centre and not quite as thick... Now that I see yours I really need to photoshop mine up

That link is great... My GF is after a GTI, however, rang the dealers in Melbourne, as well as Geelong, they alll said the same thing, there is apparently an 11month wait to get one exactly as you want it. Most places have upped the dealer delvivery to $4k, and you need to put down a deposit in most cases just to get a test drive. Apparently its the same in Europe, they are meant to be increasing production to cope... At least the advertising is working...

Are you talking about a factory fitted Ford Alarm? A mate has a Typhoon with the factory alarm they come with and the only way we know of to remove the battery without taking it to Ford is to use two people. 1. lossen the negative battery terminal so its still making connection but will just slide off 2. turn ignition to acc 3. as person one turns the key to "on" the second person removes the battery terminal. The siren will chirp once maybe but that's it. Either that or a bucket of water and a hammer will "fix" the siren good...

He made a BIG mistake assuming your car was stock...

Bose and Shock, your maths are correct but your frame of reference is wrong. To the other car you are not travelling 51m/s faster, because it is travelling at a similar speed. You would be travelling 51m/s compared to a fixed point. Blonk, I nearly went insane today trying to figure it out basically what you've done, did it many times many ways and still wasn't happy We both know you've used formulae for linear acceleration, but that's more than fair enough, otherwise you would have to take readings as the car went down the 1/4 and intergrate and NO ONE can be stuffed doing that. (ok maybe the guy from numb3rs) Assuming linear acceleration, the force applied to the car doesn't change, as the acceleration doesn't change BUT IT DOES. Traction, drivers, fuel, magic pixies all aside. The main thing that would matter is where in the rev range and how long for the car gets to max power. spoton Shock If a car only develops 300KW for 500RPM and 140kw for the rest, a car that develops 260kw for most of the range will flog it. A more accurate way would to be to caculate the area under the power graphs for the two cars to get an avg power then apply the linear acceleration formulae... but once again WHO CAN BE STUFFED. T's with more power will in general go faster, but to make a statement as specific as 37KW = 1 car length is just wrong and ill imformed it might work for one example but I'd never use as a general rule... Now where is that 747 on the treadmill....

Think about it. Just about every microcontroller (MCU) on the planet these days has at least one PWM out. For this set up PWM would have been much easier to implement, you only have one button to press. Each time you press it the MCU changes the duty cycle of the PWM, so no need to have a multi position switch with resistors acrtoss it. Or have the MCU switch in and out different resistor values. Plus in development its heaps easier to change the duty cycle of the PWM in software rather than pulling the board out and changing resistor values. More importantly with a PWM controller the power delivered to each element is independant on the load of the whole circuit. If you have a base model with no extra lights for power windows etc and you had resistors deciding the current, you would need to change the resistor values depending on what lights you needed to run. A bugger if you need different configurations, for example a Ghia over an XT PWM: Using micro that's already there for BCM etc, lower part count, easier to fine tune in development, easier for multi configurations = cheaper, thus a goer

120HZ just put the scope across it... slow in a way but plenty fast enough fo the eye not to see. Seeing we have trouble picking things once they change fast than 12 times a second

Your right PWM is AC by definition as the curent alternates, but between positive and zero, instead of pos and neg. Light dimmers for proper AC globes work differently again, but another story. And your correct with PWM for LEDs if the square wave isn't a high enough frequency the LEDs will flicker/flash, a good example of this is some LED torches. But in the T it's not smoothed at all, the frequency is high enough. Throw a cap across it and you'll get DC infact you've invented a switchmode power supply Ya 2c was money well spent.