JP300

I like your reasoning, a drag car is a drag car and you are not trying to complicate the process by having to make it comply with Sydney traffic conditions. I hear what you are saying about the roll cage issue too... Fun times ahead!

Mmmmmm.... Nice setup. I like the coil pack setup. I love the look of that top mount. With the cage in it are you still going to be able to insure it and keep it road legal/registered?

About time you got the car back out on the track. Well done to you and the Rigoli boys ... top effort and a nine is there for the taking. Have a go yourself and you will get biten by that bug again! It must be a lot of fun on the street. Who is going to put in the roll cage?

I kept blowing the 2800 stall converter with the locking mechanism and had to have one built. I have a 3000 rpm stall hydraulic lock which works well in and around town and on the country trips. Still managed 395ks on 44litres the other day on a run between Sydney to Goulburn and back.

Sorry Pat, I don't think I can make it this Saturday ... but I will try and pop in sometime and have a look.

What type of injectors are the guys running that are having idle problems? I heard that there might have been a bad batch of Siemens injectors released (perhaps these were poor quality copies) and a few of the shops around australia had experienced similar problems? Can anyone confirm this? Other reasons for idle problem, Idle speed motor/controller, vaccum air leak, bad fuel pressure (replace filter), bad fuel, rubbish in the tank ...

I thought I was bad ... I did a rear set of street dunlops in two months! You must be very eager on the fun pedal and like to smoke them! My guess is that the Dunlop semis are intended for circuit use. What you will find is that they do not like to be mistreated by a burnout and fall apart. They like to be brought up to temperature gradually then they work well.

Well ... there is a bit of a difference between an na and a T. Power is addictive, the more you get the more you want. Better than a lot of the other addictions out there!

Well I am still using it as a daily driver for work, not sure how many ks I did over that period but what happens is that at the drags the pressures are low and these cars chew up the insides of the rears quite badly. I pumped them up to 35 psi and they had some rubber in the middle of the tyres. They are now to be binned as I had sparks coming out of them last time I took the car to the track. I decided that it was time to put some rubber on the back rather than running around on the belts!

I'd have to dissagree with you on that one ... not any BA. I have been in a few BFs and there is not a lot of difference between the cars. I drove one of the first Typhoons and could not justify throwing the money down the drain for a few extra shiny bits and a push button starter. A BA with the right brakes and suspension setup, a stronger bottom end is a far better buy... my 2 cents worth. I guess it all comes down to what you are really after. My preference is performance in all regards firstly then the looks and bells and whisltes second. I cant wait to drive an FG and then I will make a decision as to whether I upgrade or not. The old taxi still feels and goes pretty good.

I have had a few exhausts on my car but I can confidently say that the new Tunehouse THR Exhaust is the best by far ... See the thread on the Tunehouse section for pictures and details. The Xforce is not as bad as you say. For the $$$ they are pretty good value but if you are after 400 rwkw+ then it does start creating some real restrictions.

I agree with Zap_F6 the stickier the tyre the softer it is ... I just cannot find a tyre which I am happy with. I ran the MT ET Streets 275s on the rear on 17" rims for a few months but they were terrible in wet conditions when there was free stading or running water across the road. They were also pretty ordinary when they were cold. Once the temperature was up they were great. I might try the Yokie advans next time around. They sound like good value for money.

Sounds like a bit of a dangerous situation to me. My guess is that you are running more than 10 psi of boost and the factory actuator cannot control the flapper. Tuning can improve this surging sound but what you will probably find is that the fluctuation is boost is not that much. Get the the car to a decent tuner and in the meantime do not give it a hard time!!

That is right, the auto does "automate" the process of getting down the quarter but a lot of people (like me) like to shift manually to control the shift points and also allow for a quick response in case of a traction issue. I do not think that track conditions or tyres effect the MPH as much as temperature on the day. I cannot wait to get into a manual again and start running down the quarter. I can really respect the guys with high powered cars who are trying to put it to the ground and get a god ET although the MPH numbers I would have thought should have been consistent across all transmissions compared the the power levels.

Sorry, it's late and I got lazy with the last few graphs.

Here are the graphs with the latest results. The black line is the linear average. All transmissions: mphvsrwkwall.bmp ZF Automatic 6 speed: mphvsrwkwA6.bmp Automatic 4 speed: mphvsrwkwA4.bmp Manual 6 speed: mphvsrwkwM6.bmp Pretty interesting eh! ... The Auto 6 speed figures are the most consistent while the Manual 6 speed is all over the place. I think that this should provide a handy reference for both experienced and first time drag racers. What do you guys think?

Pencil me onto the maybe list ... depending on the weekend.

Long live the I6 ... I do not think that we will ever see an aussie car with a factory engine with quite as much torque down low. I just can't see myself upgrading in the near future.

Another one bites the dust !! Mine held on for 12 months with about 300 odd rwkw but as soon as I upped the power and torque to 340 + it gave up within a month.

I agree about the 60ft times making such a difference on the ET. But it seems like it has the opposite effect on MPH from my experience. Where the power is made is also not so important. From what I have seen most cars are making peak power up around the same RPM 5000 - 5500? I went a bit backwards on MTs in terms of MPH but gained better ET on the same tune... I will have a go at trying to plot the results that have been posted so far. I will do it over the weekend. Should be interesting.

Sorry, I did not mean for it to sound that way ... I was implying that there are a lot more C&V cars out there that should put up some figures. The more the better.

Rob basically went out with a more agressive low down tune which gives him more torque down low so when the car is hot it may sacrifice the top end power. As Blueboost found when the cars are hot they can loose a few MPH. I have noticed this too, the car does not feel as strong. His previous tune was on par with gropers efforts (see table). I have to compliment Rob-GreenXR6T, he gets full marks for effort... He ran nine times last night. I thought I was crazy when I ran 8 times in one night. He just kept saying that he was just having a lot of fun and did not care if he was killing his clutch or tyres!! Onya mate, that's the spirit! Sorry back to the topic ... good to see some good numbers from C&V directly, how about a few more from their customers and also from some of the other shops? Cmon guys !!

It's all good feedback and yes we have strayed a bit away from the topic but some interesting thoughts on the comparisons between similarly listed powered cars. Some of them are pretty close to each other when you start looking at comparing the MPH, RWKW and same transmission cars. Keep the figures coming in guys !! I will plot them all in one graph and then in separate graphs based on transmission over the weekend.

We need more cars ... Anyone else have some figures to throw in?

Thanks ... I will update it again after a few days and we can keep a close eye on the results ... I will at some time plot the results ina graph which will make it easier to see the results.