civillian

Get your concrete cutter out and do some community work!

Does that interior area with the soldered wires become flooded with fuel?? I'm thinking of soldering too, but I don't think the heatshrink would be rated for fuel

sorry but WTF is 'shaving' your car?? Ive got some odd mental pictures going on ....

[quote name='howitzer85' post='768716' date='Nov 15 2008, 01:55 PM']My diff bush just sh*t itself so it depends on how much thats gonna cost me to fix...[/quote] OT - I got a rough quote for $550 for mine the other day. There are options for using a nylon bush which last longer, ask about that as the part is the least expensive bit

I found this aswell. Ford manual calls this a 'pencil brace' and I got a replacement bolt from Fraud for about 5 bucks.

*bump* Cmon, were so close to 20 guys - get em up ya!

As a comparison, here's a pic of the new turbo installed, and everything cleaned

Here's a few happy snaps of my turbo removal (it was terminal due to oil). Mine's done ~130,000kms. Also pictured is the 'escaped' oil from the intake side, aka blow-by residue dripped on the heat shield.

Springs are cheap, install is not. I got a quote for supply + fitting new valve springs for just under $1000, most of it being for installation...

Hey quick question, got a mate who's got a 1JZ Twin Turbo, does anyone know if these will fit??

[quote name='Buf-Phoon' post='750060' date='Oct 15 2008, 07:38 PM']Not saying it's absolute rubbish. Just that there is a better overall option[/quote] Just got off the phone to my tuner and they said there's a licensing fee that Unichip charge to use their software, therefor they don't tune with them. SO, sounds like I'm ditching the Chimp after all. RAP1D - Put me down for a set please

Sounds like the bloke isn't sure of himself. There is a factory gasket for dump-to-turbo, at least on the BA's. A good idea, but you really should have a gasket there. Umm, you said this or them?? You should take up their offer of a machining of the surface, but get them to ring around to confirm that there IS supposed to be a gasket there. This should keep your warranty and get the best outcome. Only replace if its terminally screwed. If it's performing well, then don't replace. If its under warranty, then you can only ask the question, they will decide if its screwed. I'd ditch the 2 months in favour of a better outcome for the car in the long run. GASKET!

Belts shouldn't be greased for 2 reasons (that I can think of) 1: Belts are supposed to grip, greasing will make it slip. 2: Grease / any petrolium product kills rubber, so it would degrade faster if exposed to any petro-chemical. Definitly check that throttle body joiner. Also check the smaller BOV hose at the rear of the engine.

[quote name='djkice' post='750422' date='Oct 16 2008, 01:07 PM']I would be keen if someone gives me a straight answer into whether they fit or not.[/quote] [quote name='RAP1D']The plug in and bolt in as standard, no mods other than tuning changes to suit the larger flow.[/quote] Sounds like they are direct replacement

[quote name='Buf-Phoon' post='748848' date='Oct 13 2008, 07:16 PM']May I ask why you are still using a Unichimp ?[/quote] I just got the auto redone.. (ouch), and aparently it won't take much over 300 at the wheels for years ongoing, so I think the 'unichump' should be ok if my tuner will go for it.

[quote name='Buf-Phoon' post='748848' date='Oct 13 2008, 07:16 PM']May I ask why you are still using a Unichimp ? An edit of the factory computer has far greater flexibility and can provide better performance than a piggyback Awaits entry stage left of Gooseman [/quote] LOL ...When I got my 'T' modded, it was late '04 and it was the sole option, Edit was still in testing. Is there somewhere that I can find technical documentation on exactly what the Edit does / changes to the onboard computer(s)?? I'm a computer guy by trade, so I would want _technical_ docs....not just 'it flashes stuff and make it go fast'...

Forgive my ignorance here - Will these play nice with a Unichip?? Are they tricky to tune?? Does anything else need to be modified due to change of impedance (ohms)??

For my 2c - If you're talking about the rear of turbo, that's the dump pipe and yes, there is definitely supposed to be a gasket there.... and they don't just 'fall' off either, even if you lose a nut...the gasket has holes that fit around each dump pipe stud, so it has to go on when the turbo is dis-attached from the dump pipe. However, if you mean exhaust manifold to turbo, Ford don't use a gasket there and therefor probably don't have a part number. Hope that helps.

I've got one of ETM's oil filter kits, which I'll be putting on my newly refurbished turbo soon. So it will be a new oil line in a new(ish) turbocharger, so there will be oil starvation for a short time... I've heard somewhere that you should prime the oil lines before running the engine, by disconnecting the coil and turning the engine over. However, XR6T's have individual coils which are hard(er) to disconnect. Should I be priming the lines first, and if so, how??

Managed to get the sucker out this weekend, with a bit of help from an arc welder...I had to take the manifold off, but that's no biggie. The double nut trick worked great on those studs (thanks SILK for the tip), I found that some were fairly loose. Is there any problem replacing the studs with bolts?? It just seems that bolts would make life easier here and I noticed that on mrmackie's original post he's got bolts for the turbo to dump pipe assembly.

Nice write up mrmackie, you make it look easy which is why I gave it a go...well... XF Falcon: How did you get the last nut/bolt off?? This is the one I'm stuck on right now... I've got every nut off... dump pipe was easy, so was the other 3 turbo-to-manifold ones, except the one you pictured above. I think I've rounded the nut a bit I have 2 questions for you or anyone here 1) How should I get the rounded nut off, considering access is poor? (dont care if it dies in the process) 2) In my BA mk 1, I have studs for the turbo to dump pipe assembly, as well as the turbo to maifold, how do I get studs out without damaging them??

Great write-up!! So you used a magnetic spark plug socket? - For anyone who doesn't have one like this, I used a Telescopic Magnetic pick-up tool to extract the old plugs and insert the new ones, as the socket I had wasn't magnetic. Really useful tool to avoid bumping the electrode on the way down. I also used a socket instead of a flat head screwdriver, on the intake hose band clamps to really get them tight. Nice pics too mate, specially the rubbers on the coils - almost lost some Nick

Hi I have a similar story, except I had a unichip. Everything was fine for about a week or two until it started missing... my tuner replaced the plugs with iridiums, and the problem was twice as bad.... instantly It felt like the problem was in 2 or 3 cylinders, and it would work OK some days but not others. They recommended taking it back to Ford warranty and getting the computer reflashed for overboost (this was a year ago when that was the common diagnostic) Anyway cut a long story short, I had the unichip removed. Problem still existed, but less evident, perhaps understandably. Took it back to Ford. It ended up being the iridium plugs! One or two of them had cracks in the insulation of the plug... and burn marks where the spark was escaping. So, how did the new iridiums fail so quickly?? Many T owners have this missfire problem and they all get the factory ecu redone at ford, and the problem still exists. I rekon (im no mech) that the factory coils on a lot of these fords are a bit shakey when the system asks for a bit of spark. Not sure, what do you rekon?? I dont think this is the fault of the edit or unichip or whatever Conversly, its possible the plugs were cracked before or during the installation My ecu was not detecting the miss. If that's the case, I would be checking the plugs with a magnifying glass. I had this problem for about 10 months before finding it was the plugs.... argh!