harvo

^ my boss blew his truck up so we've been using my ute until his is fixed, he had to upgrade all his straps cos we kept popping them. Get a good load on there and it pulls like a train.

Just buy a 3.5" mandrel bend and cut/polish it to suit, will probably be cheaper then buying a tip. sh*t, make 2 and sell the other one?

Now I know that you should take dyno results with a grain of salt, but, yeah, this thing will peel 295 semi's like there made of butter (it is a ute to be fair) 06 BF; Pazmaman 1200hp cooler, plenum & surge tank(044 main+walbro lift) Battery relocated, 4" cold air intake Hiflow turbo & 12lbs actuator + modified wastgate 4" dump, 5" cat, twin 2.5" xforce Upgraded valve springs & injectors + a good tune plus all the other sh*t to pin it to the road, but that much should get you close to where you want to be.

Hi everyone I've been thinking about doing this but I've got an aftermarket duel stage boost controller and was wondering if it's safe. I'm guessing it's same/same but different and shouldn't cause any problems just thought I'd ask first. Cheers Dan

Took the tray off and re-fitted the tub on my ute, then thought id wash/polish/wax the whole show and as soon as I was done it f@#ken rained. Also got the freshly rattle canned wheels back on too, will reserve judgment till the fronts are back on but think I'll change the centres to a grey.

I've squeezed an 18x10+45 (25mm bolt on's) with a 295 35 tyre on the front of my bf. It's low with lots of camber and guard pumping. Same wheel on the back sits outside the edge of the alloy tray on my ute. An 18x12+20 is gonna be right out there, but all the other sizes should work ok depending on the look you want. I'm guessing you want it pretty aggressive so 18x10+28 all round or the 9.5+12 maybe for more lip?

I painted my wheels today, was a cheap backyard job but better then paying someone to do it and then not being 100% happy. especially when going outside the box. Powder coating may be a better option depending on the price?

We're getting screwed out of our redundancy because there's still "reserves" of coal in the ground we're just not allowed to mine it? It's going to court.

A diesel mechanic could almost name his price and go where ever they wanted going off of a quick google search for fitters positions. I'm a open cut mine fitter/operator (at work now waiting for something to brake just to elevate the boredom) Find out my fate tomorrow as to how much longer I'll be employed, we getting shut down because of the greenyies too. 6 weeks maybe? before I sell my ute and join the dole cue, good times.

Do this, you wont regret it Cheers

Well, now I've got RSI in my elbow as well as my wrist but I've also got a mostly shiny wheel to go with it. Needs a bit more work before the final polish and then do it all again x3. Haven't touched the outer rim yet still working on that too. Might even plastidip the lips gloss black? cheers

Yeah, I did look into that too (vibratory polishers) but the inner basket was to small to fit them in. Another idea was to mount just the centers on the spindle inside the outer tub, fill with abrasive and run it on a wash cycle ie: cycling back and forth with a compressed air feed into the base to help agitate the abrasive. I've paint stripped on of the centres and they're a fairly rough cast so there going to take some elbow grease to shine up.

Just thought I'd share my latest project, polished a set of old rims once mexican style (back of car jacked up, in gear) and thought there must be a better way. So after a bit of youtube research and having an old washing machine in the shed already I thought I'd give it a go. Plan was, mount the rim on an old hub on a frame and drive it off the motor with a belt, to easy, wrong. Turns out the old washer has a direct drive motor, no worries...... Plan B, cut down washer tubs (inner/outer) mount in frame and build a turntable to mount rims onto. Obviously, still needs some work to level and balance the table (only a mock setup) but this is the basic idea, I'll update this when I get off my ass and do some more work to it. Cheers, Dan The rims I'm polishing

I'm from Lithgow, I've been thinking about joining the bathurst car club and doing some hill climbs and super sprints up the mount. Anyone else get up there and have a go? Cheers Dan

No worries mate, it was a standard replacment gj drivelines can supply a chromolly cv that's a cut and weld job for around the $750 mark if you need something alot stronger.

Yeah mate, it was a complet cv assembly that came in a box with hardy spicer written on it. Comes with cv, front and rear covers, rubber boot clamp, gasket, circlip and grease. Everything you need to do the job except tools and degreaser. I also cleaned, inspected and re-greased the center cv joint while it was appart. Probably a good idea to do this to both cv's if still in good condition, like anything the grease in there gets a hard time and should be replaced from time to time. Not sure if it's got a "do this at xxxkm" mine has 115000k's and the grease was looking pretty second hand compared to the new stuff. Cheers

Hey spinr33, At first I thought it was a wheel rubbing on the tie down rail of the tray I had just fitted (which it was) but after removing the rails the problem persisted. It was a kind of shudder that came on when accelerating/coming on boost that was bad enough I could feel it through the floor. Best bet is to get under there and have a look, I unbolted the rear of the tail shaft (6 x 8mm bolts, there tight as above) mine came out of the diff flange easily just make sure to scribe a line on it first so it goes back in the same orientation. You should then be able to articulate the outer cv race smoothly, mine was really sh*tty which pissed me off because from the symptoms and my google diagnosis I thought it was the center bearing (cheaper fix) hope that makes sense. Put my new cv in yesterday and it's all fairly straight forward, a hardy/spicer unit with everything included. You've got no idea how good it is to get back in the XR after driving your back up car, a 1976 HJ with no heater (-5deg mornings) and in desperate need of some front end steering/suspension work. Cheers Dan

I've got a standard replacement coming from GJ Drivelines for $300 I'll fit it myself and get it balanced locally. They also do a chrome molly cv for around $750-$800 but would have had to pay freight both ways for the tail shaft plus fitting and balancing. Thanks for the advice,

Thanks mate, GJ, there in vic aren't they? they've come up in a few searches. I'm country nsw so getting something delivered is about my only option unless I want to drive to sydney. I'll shoot off an email to them and see what they can do.

found the problem, a rip in the boot and one very dry cv assembly that was a pain to get apart. Now, where to get a new cv from?

I hear that, I'd like to know what the torque setting is for those 8mm bolts. I had a hell of a time getting them to crack.

Wouldn't let me edit but here's the cv that needs to be replaced. and this is the other end

Hey there, Just wondering if anyone makes replacment cv's for the BF (ute) besides fraud! My center cv seems fine, I'll clean it up at work on monday and have a better look but the rear joint that bolts to the diff flange is totaly stuffed. The rear cv looks like a sealed unit (I don't have a repair manual yet) does it need to be butchered to get it off or is there a way to dismantle them, though, it seems to be fairly f@#ked as was making a horrible noise/vibration. I did get an over the phone quote from SDS (sydney driveline services) $1200 for a reco'ed unit and around the $1800 mark for a heavy duty 2 piece race spec type thing but if I can rebuild mine for a couple hundred dollars I'd rather go down that path for now. Are the cv units the same between sedan and ute? I know there's variations between the shafts. Ps: should probably add lowered, semi slicks and 500+rwhp. I know it's inevitable but I need my ute back on the road as soon as possible with out spending a fortune. Any help would be appreciated Cheers Dan

Hey there, Just wondering if anyone makes replacment cv's for the BF (ute) besides fraud! My center cv seems fine, I'll clean it up at work on monday and have a better look but the rear joint that bolts to the diff flange is totaly stuffed. The rear cv looks like a sealed unit (I don't have a repair manual yet) does it need to be butchered to get it off or is there a way to dismantle them, though, it seems to be fairly f@#ked as was making a horrible noise/vibration. I did get an over the phone quote from SDS (sydney driveline services) $1200 for a reco'ed unit and around the $1800 mark for a heavy duty 2 piece race spec type thing but if I can rebuild mine for a couple hundred dollars I'd rather go down that path for now. Are the cv units the same between sedan and ute? I know there's variations between the shafts. Any help would be appreciated Cheers Dan

I had thought about removing the center muffler but I have some clerance issues with the twin system between the cat and center muffler and thought that a 4" with a decent rear muffler would be an ideal solution. Should be fairly straight forward as long as I can find a decent quality muffler that will fit where the center one is now or is it still going to be to loud given it wont be a straight through muffler? Shouldn't it be the same as removing the center muffler or am I missing the point and the over all length of the system affects the volume? Cheers