bionicxr6t05

Hahahahaha love it, mines zf auto I get good traction in 3rd rolling on boost but if I just mash the pedal in 2nd itl spin til I tell it to stop

Cool sounds like hes honest... Self test then go from there

I know, its got one of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HIGH-POWERED-CAR-ELECTRIC-TURBO-SUPERCHARGER-AIR-INDUCTION-BLOWER-ALL-CARS-/190674380103?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c65142547

did they load test it? using a volt meter only tells you voltage not cca.... australian batteries dont read different to any other cca battery, there are different types though, most european silver calcium batteries are measured in A EN....

im sure u can but how long will it last? scroll up and read my other post... im now running 385rwkw thru ba bottom end (BF1) we should make our own club, call it waiting to die lol

Maybe points need to be done

Iv seen them still start at 8 v its more to do with cold cranking amps

Make sure the canister purge valve isnt hitting the lh strut tower

Yep that looks like a battery!! Get them to do a load test on it... A car can start every time and still have a sh*t battery.... Looks like its only a 470cca too which isnt ideal

Step 1- test your battery if its stuffed replace it Step2- run self test see what codes have come up probably forced limited rpm code which is normally due to dodgy battery and probably comms fault with tcm which is why the d flashes

Lol so many people freak out when it happens your not the only one

Yep, voltage drop causes comms faults

Battery is flat

Yeh I agree its only taken 9 years lol we use what we are given and they pay us to do it their way

Using the original procedure u need to remove the diff to press the bush in with the old tools, using the diff cover to screw the bush in or hitting it in is the wrong way to do it and can pull the thread on the diff hat out and hitting it can distort te cradle and cause cracking like many of you have seen

The blades can be removed easily bushes are done in a press

ah well there ya go its a parts thing, this is the first time fpv bushes have been different from others? May be a compromise between nvh and durability...

Yeh some dealers will be kents about that, me however il just replace it lol

Zero lol, unless its cracked youve got buckleys

No, as per previous bush supercesions the new bushes will be fitted, as far as im aware....

Cradle still has to be removed on falcons but diff stays on cradle, doing it the dodgy way is much quicker (45min or so) but its something I dont agree with and refuse to do or let others do if I have anything to do with it

Their wording today was "we are currently shipping out tools to dealers" being a locally delivered product and an essential special tool, I would think all dealers will get them whether they use them or not I dont know, I have seen people half drop the cradle and pry the bush out then hit the new one in which is terrible practice

The new procedure for falcon sedans basically is Remove irs Using special tools remove old bush and fit new bush (with diff in place) Refit irs The new tools look great theres a horseshoe shaped plate that goes at the rear of the bush and slides over thr diff hat protrusion, 2 studs then screw into it from the front and another plate goes over them, then a cylinder goes over te front and a bolt screws in through the cylinder to remove the bush similar to install.... Kinda hard to explain but works very well and doesnt rely on straining the alloy diff hat in the process

Depends on the dealer, some may not change their prices but they should because doing the job PROPERLY doesnt require removing the diff from te cradle anymore, takes about 2 hours start to finish

Also as of today ford has released new procedures and shipped out a new special tool for replacing these, should see the new stuff next week, this should reduce retail labour cost for those wanting a dealer to fit them, only taken 9 years and 4 bush evolutions lol