tofski

Spoke with Haltech , they said that the factory traction should be off and remain off when the plug in pro was installed so utilising their traction strategy. He suggested might have the wrong can strategy in the ecu setup . The car is an bf F6 with zf and I did set it as that, the only other option is bf XR6 turbo zf , not sure if they would be different but I'll give it a go once I have the car back from the tuner where it's at ATM . Problem is that I have an ic7 in place of the original cluster and that doesn't show the traction control light.

Thanks for yr advice mate I haven't contacted pcmtech yet as it's not their product. Might be a way to get an answer as to this day I have spoken to a few Haltech dealers and tuners and had no resolution. I'll contact Haltech first directly regarding this as it should have been sorted out during their development of the product. Thanks

The Haltech does not seem to have any adjustment to the factory control , it uses speed inputs from abs sensors to reduce spark or fuel or both to reduce engine speed , not sure if it utilises the brakes like the factory control thru the abs. That is my problem as the factory control ( from what I researched) applies brakes until it's turned off and has nothing to do with factory pcm as it's not there once Haltech is installed , as you suggest the editing has to be done in the traction control module itself I just want not to disable the abs module completely as I want to retain the abs .

Don't know if anyone has sorted this out before I'm running a Haltech elite plug in and have set up the traction control strategy in that . Issue I have is the the standard traction control is still active unless I turn it off via button . I have a ic7 in place of original cluster so I don't even know if she std traction is in or off. I know it's related to the abs module and controls the brakes as the std pcm is not there .I still want to retain abs so don't want to just remove the fuse. Is there a way to disable the std traction control or a way to set it to off as default so I wouldn't have to turn it off every time I start the car. As I have forscan this way would be ideal

https://imgur.com/gallery/bm4YFmd Hopefully the link to the dyno works for you guys. Yes has stock head and cams apart from oversize vales and upgraded springs , stock crank also . Other mods oil pump , timing chain ,girdle ,rods and pistons etc only driven it today but so far very responsive.

Not worried , done a co2 coolant test right after the run and come up negative . Whatever happens now only time will tell , either way will be fun in the process.

Don't think it pushed past the gasket as it was doing 40psi same motor setup on c16 when it was the ETM f6 back in the day , I think the pwr expansion tank and cap are a bit dodgy , Gonna still push the limits 👍

When that happened we pushed to see what the turbo would do and even after that no probs even with more pulls ,re the timing I'll have to ask the tuner , that said I won't be pushing the limits of the turbo all the time hard enough to hook up with 500kw on the street.

Not sure why that occurred, motor is running full copper 40thou head gasket with oringed block and head . Also 14mm head studs down to 150ftlb . Been fine after that run so see what happens.

Maxed out at that power 33psi @6350rpm, comes on quick and that's what I wanted for a Streeter. I'll post a dyno once I got it.

Sorry Don't have one yet . I'm not on Facebook either but if you click on the link you should be able to open it.

Finally got some results for the turbo https://m.facebook.com/JustEngineManagement/videos/chriss-bf-xr6t-packing-a-punch-with-744rhkw-997rhhp-33psi-on-united-e85-built-4l/523675099691340/

Yeah got it sorted after lots of head scratching and there was 2 issues 1st issue the ecu was not recognising the diff ratio so we reset the ecu completely and loaded newer firmware onto it . After that was sorted we could only write to the ecu thru the obd port when we pumped more than 15v into it but could read from it at lower voltage 2nd issue -Figured out it was a bad solder joint on the can wires at the obd port where previously had an alarm wire soldered to it . Pretty sure the 1st issue was caused by the 2nd since all this started happening when the alarm was removed. Been good since the joint got re soldered

The setup was sold before I got the car and the rear housing is standard garret 1.06 The whole idea behind this setup is to be more streetable with similar top end as a gtx42 and spool closer to 35 frame turbo.

Something different , also heat management and did not want a 6 boost as I wanted good low boost control being more for the street . The car did have a high mount and did run a 9.40 in a past life with a gt45