FORDCRAZY

So that's the lil unit with boost hose and electrical wires? Could my problem be a case of sticky solenoid? I read about on this site. Fixed by spraying with wd-40.

We're is the boost solenoid located??

I have a problem with the ECU not recognizing full boost for about 500rpm (3000-3500) before it registers and then starts to pull timing out. This led to pinging (excessive timing) was fine at time of tune but couple months after, discovered the issue and lucky nothing gave way considering it pinged but only Audible through headphones on dyno. Have since had timing adjusted, but that's the strange thing safety setting was setup to retard up to 4 degrees but it didn't. Anyone know if map sensor is faulty or nock sensor. Would like to fix this b4 retuning.

With the mods I have on my car and previous tunes I'm already at 315rwkw, I wouldn't expect to go over 330rwkw. So the topic was to see if others have reached or passed this power level (330) with, stock box, F6 intake, and k&n panel. And is the turbo side intake really that effective, does it result in quicker 0-100km and or faster 1/4 mile times.???

Has anybody used this common setup for big power, and if so what is the power limit to this setup.

Plazmaman 800hp pro kit, $1895. that's the best value kit I believe. Every kit beneath this one still uses bar and plate I/C, this has tube and fin.

Yeah, I think I'll keep saving up mi penny's, and also go the plazmaman kit $1600 complete with pod filter and under battery intake pipe. Can't go wrong with that. =)

Valid points. I will mention that I bought my car with the Monza already on it, so I haven't really wasted a dollar on that yet..... On the HDI, I gotta say it deffinatley looks the part, good quality finish, cad designed end tanks, great welds, etc etc. apparently alot of pro drifting teams use their product. As far as I'm aware their latest addition also their cheapest (XO1-R) is smaller I/c than the GT-GT2 series,It's more street friendly(lesser HP cars) and easier installation. All this sounds straight forward. What I really am interested in mostly is how it performs in primary objective (cooling) I don't think I'll have a problem using this kit providing it actually competes with the bigger name brands in (intake temps vs psi) basically if any of their coolers can keep my temps in 30-39c @ 14-15psi Itll be an Inprovement on the Monza which reaches upto 50c on dyno. But if not many ppl are buying HDI, I guess I won t be getting much feedback. That itself might be the obvious feedback

Sweet cheers m8. I've had twitchy finger on the "buy it now" button. To purchase it. But id rather be certain that it'll be worth it.

So can anyone vouch for this HDI kit, I want to get one but not sure if it will be worth it, I'm currently using Monza and stock piping on bf mkii has run low 12s on current setup and don't want to wast money on HDI if it's not going to improve anything particularly heat soak as Monza is no good for cooling.

Great write up. Now from what Ive read here the rear pcv is the culprit for oil in the intake system. I've been running a catch can for the front rocker cover line (and I can say that with 5-10k km ther is. Bugger all oil in the can). So would it be best to change my setup by; plugging the hole on crossover, and putting filter breather on rocker cover. Then use my catch can for the rear pcv/intake manifold?? P.s I fitted my can on the factory air box. Quick and easy. Very concealed. I've used black hoses and if I paint the can black, most ppl won't even spot it. Can post pic if anyone interested.

Thanks for the replys, based on what most have said here and also having a chat to Simon @ xft, nizpro is way to go. Can't ignore fact that Simons F6 dyno shoot out winner runs nizpro I/C, PW was the one I was going to get, but I'm deffinatley convinced nizpro is as good or better.

I'm currently using Monza cooler and as most know they flow well but coooling not so good, I'm running standard piping. I've got actuator full exhaust inj fuel pump etc... At 12psi tune Monza seemed ok but now that I'm tuned @14psi intake temps too high and sacrificing torque, I've read alot of the post here on PW, plazmaman, rapid, nizpro intercoolers, and although alot of ppl seem to be more concerned about looks of ic, I really couldnt care less, as I'm a believer of function over fashion. Can anyone give a good reason based on performance ie flow and cooling as to which cooler they find to perform the best. All kits apply due to that I'm planning on changing piping.

Correction intake temp was 47c the reading I saw was measured in (F) which was over 100F

You should always lift coil a little bit then turn left to right a couple times, so it comes out easier without it coming apart, or worse splitting the rubber insulator in half as I have seen this happen.

Just replaced spark plugs, can someone tell me wot the status of my old plugs are. Ie: good, bad, worn, etc etc

a good tip for when removing or disconnecting battery. Get a 9v battery (square type) the matching Plug for it, attach alligator clips on each wire. Then clip them on the matching leads +/+. -/- when car battery is removed this will prevent alarm turning on and it will save your icc settings.

Ok, I've got the my car back and everything works =) even the passenger temp buttons although they don't actually do anything but change the temp on screen. So I can now say that changing your plain Jane bog stock standard twin knober to a top of the range full blown FPV icc can be done without adding all the under dash components to make it work, unless you want DZ actually functional. And like I said In previous post, ford charged me $286 to do it all.

Ok update, the car is at ford and although I haven't picked up my car yet, they've told me they CAN get it all working (without DZ and components) but the tech guy had to rewire some things. So without actually seeing it myself at this point I'm told it will be working, only downside is with labour involved its costing a smidge under $300 expensive but still cheaper (alot) than buying all the DZ components plus fitting them. Next update I will hopefully confirm that it all works.

So the him module is required for my basic function buttons to work, and/or for the dual zone to work. I am not fussed about not having dual zone control I just want basic function. In that case can I get away with fitting the matching bem module with the icc for it to work. I am under the impression that if I get a bem from let's say a fairmont with single zone and all button panel would solve my problem. Yes or no??????????

Gday. Need help! I've fitted a FPV premium sound dual climate control icc to my car, previous icc was basic small screen twin knobs unit. I have swaped the 2 modules top and bottom from my standard unit to the FPV unit. Once fitted it came up with( security code error). I took it ford and got it reset and programmed. Audio is working but the a/c, heater and fan not working. The section on screen for temp info says "off". It seems the a/c is permanently on although it says a/c off. Does anyone know wot I have to do now to get the temp/a/c/fan controls to work. My car doesn't have h.I.m module.

CORRECTION: BLUE=POWER GREEN=TORQUE

DYNO SHEET 357RWKW STOCK PIPING, 13PSI. GREEN = POWER BLUE = TORQUE PURPLE = PSI

Loose bf, wot colour is your car? Steve R, dunno about "not remembering you", apparently they check rego, but give it ago. Also last time I went to whoop ass, I asked at scrutiners wot if I run 11s, they said all I need is andra membership payable on site, that was it no mention of loop or harness. Maybe for whoop ass that's all u need and at major events other two items req, only guessing though, not sure anymore wot is the go with all that after I queried it.

Yeah cheers ant k. I think the car is fine with factory equipment, and only need to go aftermarket if you want to get around 400+rwkw, fact is it's forced induction so doesn't need massive high flow pipes, yes by modding some of the setup will reduce turbo lag, but 11sec is well within reach, which I think for daily driver is good enough, not to mention avg of 12lt/100km 550km per 65lt tank. Also with 300+rwkw and then focusing on driveline mods even better times are achievable. Well wot Eva way anyone goes with the barra turbo, it's a fricken awesome donk and putting alota grins on faces.