hjtrbo

edit: 92.23 low

Bores are measuring around 93.23 low to 92.245 high.

Goes in for measurement and inspection tomorrow, if all good then a ultra sonic clean and get the block decked. Then do what ever else the builder recommends to me. Definitely out of my comfort zone here. First engine tear down / build up cherry pop will always be nervous suppose.

ouch. Feel your pain brother. All the best with the diagnosis.

Thanks @Puffwagon. Machinist is going to inspect the block with me Monday morning. He wants it stripped down to nothing, will be a nice project over the weekend with a couple of cans. Hoping I can tell the Mrs the bores were 5 thou over so I had to get it bored out and new forged pistons and rods.

Ah, remerbered what I was going to ask now after your response this morning about gaskets... Lets pretend I'm not getting it built, I was hoping to use the gasket that comes in the permatec VRS kit. For 450rwkw was hoping that would be ok? I am upgrading the head studs to ARP. And I just called the engine machinist to organise decking my block. Had a quick go with the scotch brite, WD40 and machining stone. Fark that, my back will be toast by the end of the day.

I knew this would happen, don't get me thinking about it dude, coz I'll farken do it lol! Lol, yeah I'm a do first think later kind of guy. I'd be lonely if the mrs didn't adjust to live with it. It's a bloody disease I tell ya. Yeah, that's what will end up happening I reckon. Only the bellhousing bolts and engine mounts to go. Probably under an hours work. Will spend 4 hours just to clean the deck so its probably time well spent. Still had to raise the motor anyway to do oil pump gears.

20ra is about a thousands of an inch average roughness I'm reading from google. That's not very much lol. If I'm within 2 thou of an inch on the lathe with emery paper finishing I call it good. I've got a fine machining stone, I'll rip that over it nve its clean and see what it looks like. If there's heaps of peaks and valleys I'll get it machined. Fingers crossed I can pull magic out my arse.

Ended up taking the whole head to Powerhouse engines. John reckons he can get it back to in about a week which suits me perfect. How do I clean the carbon build up off the pistons and clean the block surface? Was thinking a dremel with a scotch disc shouldn't be to hard on it as long as I use common sense.

Thanks for the offer. Leave it with me, will pull the cams tomorrow and have a decent look at them all.

Thanks Puffwagon. FYI I can feel those lines in the roller with my finger nail. Do I just try and polish out the high spots or buy a new set or just leave them like you said. Thanks mate.

Hmm, I'm presuming this is bad https://1drv.ms/u/s!Atuxgi8rpo3Vmc9WdmNakpt9oSIDtg?e=5ySbth https://1drv.ms/u/s!Atuxgi8rpo3Vmc9VluR63eruBj6f_A?e=d48Oam https://1drv.ms/u/s!Atuxgi8rpo3Vmc9UObl7Ho9prg4BDA?e=zb6UOW

Home made removal tool. Yeah, problem found.

Discussing it here. Same fault.

You should be able to get a long way without a circuit board diagram. Just need the wiring diagram so you know which pin on the header plug you need to follow the trace on. https://1drv.ms/b/s!Atuxgi8rpo3Vl8UtmWvclbFsbML2Sw?e=6RwH9r Pg 83, 87-88

To use the new cluster you'll need to re link the pats security. Use Forscan with an extended license and a decent cable like obdlink mx. Couple of clicks and you'll be away. I haven't pulled a cluster apart to see if it's a relay or solid state. I'm sure with a wiring diagram you could chase the traces back on the board from the connector and work out if it's a relay or not. RS Components will likely have the part you need. Just hit it with the soldering iron. Failing all of that, any ford dealership should be able to get you going with a cluster reprogram.

Hey @Puffwagon and company. I'm going to do the head studs and oil pump gears / backing plate while its apart as I want to lean on the tune a bit harder on e85. Targeting mid 400's and she's my daily driver. Still has the genuine ford head gasket in there and I was thinking about being the poor man that I am and just doing the old 1 stud at a time head bolt changeover. What do you reckon about the poor mans head bolt change? Compared to you I don't know f#ck all about cars, just like getting in and having a go. There is a small crowd out there that spruik the method and report good success. I know its not ideal vs lifting the head and pulling the block out for a skim, but if I can get away with it, then fark it, why not right??? This is what I've got for the parts list (Golebys): ARP head studs BA/BF/FG 6 cylinder Barra Turbo 252-4302 $549 Barra 6cyl engine GMB water pump Turbo and non Turbo (GWF-106AP) $55 BA BF FG Ford Falcon Barra Timing gasket and seal set (TCS48) $55 GRP Engineering BA, BF and FG 6 Cylinder tappet cover gasket set $90 BA BF and FG Oil Pan gasket and Seal Set $50 Atomic Barra Heavy Duty Timing Chain Kit (306620-K-S) $693 Atomic Oil Pump End Plate (306753) $308 Atomic Billet Oil Pump Gears (306750) $475 $2,275 incl. gst + delivery

Hey you lot. Doing it backwards. Just pull the bastard apart and order sh*t later. Pulling the timing cover off to fix the stupid front lower oil leaks. Just wondering if I could get a hand with the parts list? Water pump Timing chain kit Decent rtv Front timing cover seal Thread sealer ? Thanks legends.

Leafs should fit. King has the same part number of their leafs from BA to FG-X. Can't go wrong with Lovells springs and Bilstein adjustables. Or MCA coil overs. Hopefully you're getting a nice tax return this year.

The stock variable cams and off boost strategy are very good. They do help to spool up quicker. Tom's advice is excellent. The 3582 and newer versions of it are a great turbo for mid 400's on the corn juice all day long for many 10's of thousands of kilometres. Whether to upgrade I think will depend on your level of tuning experience. If doing it yourself and you've had no variable cam experience I'd suggest leave the stock cams. If going to someone like jeturbo etc. just do whatever they say.

About 35min in this bloke goes through it.

After some more time and bashing she's done. Blowing smoke and there is a witness mark on the housing where the blade has contacted. Oh well, it's had a good run. I'm on the band wagon...

Can the new style wastegates be pulled apart to service? Reason I ask is I have one of their new style FPR's and although it has a locking collar you will never get it off. They used the Loctite that needs heat to get it loose, thereby destroying the diaphragm and seals.

Mk2 onwards BF with the 6 speed ZF. Higher k's you mentioned. Just need common sense on the inspection to make sure nothing's on the way out. A good mate of mine has an FG with 260,000 km on the clock at 390rwkw. He's good with the mechanical sympathy, lifts for shifts, still on original box, rarely winds it out past 5,500rpm.

https://letmegooglethat.com/?q=wrc+developments+napier 😄