XEESPT

Hi Keith, I got the majority of parts through Jet whom I havnt been able to contact of late so yeah ill try and sort it out. Ill keep you updated as to what the outcome is, while im in there im thinking I might go back to a BA style sump with the one piece gasket adverse to the BF 2 piece half moons and RTV. Side note I should point out that Jet was nothing but extremely helpful and has nothing to do with any faults that im dealing with. Cheers Brandon..

Hi Keith, I am the engine builder.. lol.. so no luck there.. I have built a lot of ford engines over the years (worked at Dragon engineering) in my local town when I wad younger but I havnt ever run a modified oil system, I assume it wont be blow by as the engine never smokes and and has an adequate pcv system via the vented catch can. I was hoping I could work this out in my head before going balls deep and overlooking a possible soloution while I have it all apart. I will message Puff and see if he has an idea.. thanks for your time Mate. Brandon.

Hi Lads and Ladies, Ive got a BF XR6 Turbo with a built FG engine in it. Cosworth pistons Atomic rods balanced crank etc etc.. When I built this motor billet oil pump gears, backing plate and ported oil pump housing with a stiffer pump spring where also installed. I realise a stiffer spring will increase oil pressure. Ive had this engine in about 2 years and it hasnt skipped a beat.. it runs very high oil pressure (80psi cold idle) (20 psi hot idle) and 130 psi full noise 7000 rpm. My question is can running excesivley high oil pressure blow out my rear main seal and cause leaks? The engine is fitted with a 10AN vented to atmosphere catch can. I cant see how it could in my mind thinking through the logistics of it but perhaps im missing something? If so is there something I can do or undertake to stop it happening? Like using "stag" or permatex aviation gasket to "glue" lock the main seal in? (Sikaflex 227.. lol) Looks like the engine will have to come out again (I say engine out again because it has a few minor dribbles around the pan that ill do at the same time) to redo the rear main seal but I want to avoid this happening again in the future.. Thankyou in advance for suggestions Brandon...

Cheers Mate, I think I might just have to bite the bullet and do as Keith suggests and swap everything back to factory, as much of a b*itch that it is. I can pick an inlet manifold and oem airbox up cheap enough from my Mate at the local wreckers. The only thing I won't be able to return to stock is my battery that is mounted under my driver's wing... XEESPT

Yeah I know........ you are right Keith, 😞 I can get hold of a factory intercooler maybe I just f*ck around trying to chase up some pipework for it .. I was just trying to lighten my work load with out compromising the integrity of the setup... FML.... XEESPT

Thanks Mate, I have a stock crossover pipe and bov I got off my Brother.. my problem is when I built the car it was straight to fully modified, it has never been standard so all the pipework I have made up for it is for a massive front mount cooler/turbosmart bov etc. To get the oem bov recirculating in the factory location via the crossover pipe am I able to remove the front mount intercooler all together and just plumb the charge pipe straight to the throttle body? (Ie) no intercooler what so ever? I figure if I stay off boost and it's only 20 minutes down the road it should be sweet you think? My reasoning is if I was thrashing it with a sh*t intercooler it would eventually get heat soaked and be the same thing... It's not illegal to run with no intercooler is it? not ideal and slightly stupid but not illegal.. is this correct? XEESPT...

Don't mean to sound like a fuc*wit just pissed off and stressed about it all . What can you tell me about running no bov? Mine vents to atmosphere and I was thinking it's probably easier to get rid of it and block it off all together due to the design of my charge air pipework.. I'm not interested wether it's good for the turbo or not just wether it's legal to do so.. will they "test drive" my vehicle? Cheers for the input.. XEESPT...

For the haters that think I was rat bagging and got defected. Whatever. The letter I received stated " transport NSW has received information which indicates my vehicle may not comply with applicable vehicle standards" I can't attach an image as the cropped screenshots I took are to big to upload. If someone who knows what they are doing knows how to crop my details I am happy to share. Here is the reply email I received

Cheers guys, I might swap out the rear coilovers anyway just for peace of mind . Is anyone 100% certainly I will get away with the forward facing plenum? For anyone that may be interested I contacted MCA about the rear coilovers and the sent me an engineers report for the rear shock conversion to verify legality. It's signed off in QLD though so I don't really want to take chances and have my car knocked.. I have tried to attach said report.. Cheers XEESPT Report MCA Suspension LS5.pdf

Hi all, I drive a BF XR6 Turbo and my vehicle has been audited to have an inspection at the local police station, I'm wondering if someone can answer a few questions I have concerning some of the bolt ons I have. Are coilovers illegal in nsw? I have a set of MCA prosport and have been told they won't pass inspection? Also what about a front mount intercooler? Am I allowed to have a forward facing aftermarket plenum? What cpi cat is legal to swap in? 200cpi? I assume they will do a sniffer test on it. Is there anything else anyone can think of that I may have forgotten that should be addressed? Cheers XEESPT..

Cheers Mate, I'll sus it out tonight..

Hi Mate, Yeah it's all been stripped down and I only have the pinion installed at the moment with the new bearings and seal. The initial measurement before pull down was only around 4lbs as the pinion bearings where worn and it had "air bearings". The pinion was marked in relation to the flange and also to the crown wheel so it goes back to original orientation. As it has new bearings in it the FWM calls for around 12.4-21 lbs I'm just wondering where I should be pulling from? I've seen some take it directly from the flange itself and some from a pre measured length of flat bar bolted to the flange. Thanks for your time Mate XEESPT

Hi All, I'm in the middle of installing new bearings and a truetrack torsion center into my spare M86 IRS diff housing. I was wondering if someone can give me the nod as to wether the method I'm using to measure the required drag force on the pinion is correct. The FWM calls for 1.4-2.4 nm (12.4-21lbs) pull on the pinion with new bearings and new seal. (It doesn't state where I'm pulling from) I've threaded a cord through the output flange bolt holes and have coiled it around the flange shaft. I've got a digital spring scale to measure the required force, I'm just unsure as to wether I can take my measurements directly wrapped around the flange and pulling through or wether I should be pulling from a pre measured length of bar? I had planned on taking 3 readings pulling clockwise and 3 anti clockwise with this method and just working an average out from there? I've tried to attach a few images to show how I have it setup for the measurement but my photo images appears to be to large?.. Will I get a correct/accurate reading using the above method? Cheers XEESPT...

Cheers mate...

Hi lads I was wondering if some one can give me the heads up regarding removing valve stem seals from the Barra head, I'm in the middle of rebuilding my head while I have my engine out doing a full rebuild and didn't want to molest them while removing for fear of marking the head.. Cheers in advance Xeespt...