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FG front cover oil leak

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Hey you lot.

 

Doing it backwards. Just pull the bastard apart and order sh*t later.

 

Pulling the timing cover off to fix the stupid front lower oil leaks. Just wondering if I could get a hand with the parts list?

 

Water pump

Timing chain kit

Decent rtv 

Front timing cover seal

Thread sealer

?

 

Thanks legends.

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  • I'll need a steady hand. So based on recent golf efforts I have a narrow window between my my 2nd and 7th Great Northern to be in my optimal period.

  • Puffwagon
    Puffwagon

    Some timing covers have rubber seals and some just use silicone. Some sump seals are one piece and some are two piece. If the balancer seal in the timing cover is leaking then replace that while it's

  • Home made removal tool.   Yeah, problem found. 

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Some timing covers have rubber seals and some just use silicone. Some sump seals are one piece and some are two piece. If the balancer seal in the timing cover is leaking then replace that while it's off. Work out what type of timing cover and sump you have then you can order stuff for it. You'll need the ultra black either way.

 

I use Loxeal 58-11 for any threads that need to be sealed. Bunnings has it and it works very well.

 

If you want to upgrade stuff or just replace stuff then Atomic has a fully hectic timing kit for the Barra. If you think that's overkill, you can get new Nason guides and a heavy duty chain to save a bit of money there. I've had no dramas with the GMB water pump. Goleby's sell all that sh*t.

  • Author

Hey @Puffwagon and company. I'm going to do the head studs and oil pump gears / backing plate while its apart as I want to lean on the tune a bit harder on e85. Targeting mid 400's and she's my daily driver. 

 

Still has the genuine ford head gasket in there and I was thinking about being the poor man that I am and just doing the old 1 stud at a time head bolt changeover. What do you reckon about the poor mans head bolt change? Compared to you I don't know f#ck all about cars, just like getting in and having a go. There is a small crowd out there that spruik the method and report good success. I know its not ideal vs lifting the head and pulling the block out for a skim, but if I can get away with it, then fark it, why not right???

 

This is what I've got for the parts list (Golebys):

  • ARP head studs BA/BF/FG 6 cylinder Barra Turbo 252-4302 $549
  • Barra 6cyl engine GMB water pump Turbo and non Turbo (GWF-106AP) $55
  • BA BF FG Ford Falcon Barra Timing gasket and seal set (TCS48) $55
  • GRP Engineering BA, BF and FG 6 Cylinder tappet cover gasket set $90
  • BA BF and FG Oil Pan gasket and Seal Set $50
  • Atomic Barra Heavy Duty Timing Chain Kit (306620-K-S) $693
  • Atomic Oil Pump End Plate (306753) $308
  • Atomic Billet Oil Pump Gears (306750) $475
  • $2,275 incl. gst + delivery
  • Author

20220726_150742.jpg.488ad1cfcec733140817e56323097e41.jpg

Home made removal tool.

 

20220726_150925.jpg.1eee121634150a1107f4fc5133cb32ac.jpg

Yeah, problem found. 

Not ideal. You're replacing the timing chain guide anyway so it doesn't matter. The roller in the rocker doesn't matter if it's just got lines in it but the cam looks pretty stuffed.

 

If you're doing head studs you'll have the cams out anyway so just fit a new set while you're at it.

  • Author

Thanks Puffwagon. FYI I can feel those lines in the roller with my finger nail. Do I just try and polish out the high spots or buy a new set or just leave them like you said. Thanks mate.  

How many are stuffed? I've got several engines worth here, so can find a few good ones for you.

 

An option is to buy an FG na engine and just take the cams and rockers out of it.

  • Author

Thanks for the offer. Leave it with me, will pull the cams tomorrow and have a decent look at them all. 

No worries.

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