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GT3582R [F6] Inspection Specifications

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#1

Hey all, a bit suss on my F6 turbo. Looking around but not having much luck on trying to find the axial and run out specs for the shaft. Any leads? Ta.

#2

I just go by the fact the core moves around a small amount and it's acceptable as long as the blades of the compressor don't actually touch the housing... but yeah, I'd imagine those specs aren't simple to find and you'd probably be best off contacting a turbo specialist to ask them.

#3
  • Author

Thanks. Nothing rubbing that is obvious from inspecting on the vehicle. Just feels a bit looser than what I was expecting. Hard to tell when I have nothing to compare it against.

 

And yes, a quick phone call to a turbo specialist is in order. Wonder if they will give me the measurements? I do have to pull the turbo off at some point as the rear housing bolts keep backing out and I want to put safety wire through them to stop it happening. Good time to inspect then. 

 

I did find these specs for a GT35 series turbo on another forum. Best I can find so far.

 

Quote

To measure the axial movement of the turbine shaft, position a dial indicator gauge against the end of the shaft at the turbine end, and push against the compressor end of the shaft. Axial play should not ex .002in (0.07mm)

To measure radial movement, place the gauge through the oil inlet hole and against the shaft. rotate the turbine shaft and observe any fluctuations. Jiggle the shaft up and down, back and forth, while observing the dial gauge. Radial play shouldn't exceed 0.004in (0.15mm)

#4

Even being almost dry of oil (eg: not fitted to the car) the play is minimal, it moves slightly more but it is still only minor like Keith said.
Listen to the turbo (or remove the intake pipe and watch it) spin down to a stop after shutting the engine off and see/hear how quick it stops. My BA when I had it you could hear the bearings but that's normal (imo), my F6X is quieter as I rarely drive it and it's not running 18-21psi on the top end like the BA was.

On another note...removing the OEM filter that's in the engine block would be more important imo. Fit an aftermarket line with a filter (if you want) as F6's are worth so much these days what's $150-200 in the big scheme of things...

  • 9 months later...
#5
  • Author

After some more time and bashing she's done. Blowing smoke and there is a witness mark on the housing where the blade has contacted. Oh well, it's had a good run. 

 

I'm on the band wagon...

 

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