dingah2

Filo have a look at the thread I posted below which contains a detailed thread about a path I ended going down which is illustrative of what Bugster and some others have already said. You are a speed shop's dream - no real idea about what you are going to do but just want to spend money - beware they'll take it off you. Sugggest you take some time to sit down and carfully think through where you want to end up before you start the journey otherwise you'll end up blowing a shedful of cash to no effect. The money you propose to spend on cosmetic mods like quad exhausts and a GT wing could be turned into far more effective performance mods with some half decent research, that is unless you want to ensure the boot lid stays closed above 200kph. There is a tuckload on info on this and many other sites and sources - do your research and dig, dig, dig is my advice. Many of the answers to questions you ask will naturally be strongly biased towards what the individual answering your post has done, whether or not that is good or possibly bad advice. Take your time or others will just take your money. Welcome! Cobra Stage 2

With reference to the original quation about does a turbo run hotter than an NA the answer is YES. Take your turbo for a spirited bit of driving - not for long, 5 mins will do and then stop in a dark place such as your garage with the lights out, pop the bonnet and enjoy the irridescent glow!' That's heat unique to the operation of your turbo. Dingah

Same as Buggy, Davies Craig cooler fiited between I/c and radiator. Dingah

Jimmy: Are you getting out of the XR6 Turbo game now? Dingah

Had a similar thing a while ago - diff whine...replaced under warranty by the stealership and funny droning and vibrations appeared. Tailshaft re-balanced vibration better but was still droning. They had replaced two tryes under warranty with sidewall cracking and had put them on backwards! Dingah

Might be worth considering the Racebrakes RB74s next time - almost fade proof, not a smuch dust as Ultimates but their stopping power is awesome - 650 temp rating. Dingah

Ones and zeros do not wear out, components do.....tune will never change but the conditions under which you operate do; both internally and externally. Dingah

Provocation ignored, but good try Mick. You think I enjoy return trips to Melbourne - hardly. Remember the first trip to Melbourne came about only thanks to one who claimed to understand the art who then clearly did not. There are two folk I trust and that's my choice and it's a soundly based decision. One is in Canberra and the other is in Melbourne. Once Glen gets the Nizpro franchise I'll stay in Canberra otherwise the Nizpro Cobra upgrading is currently not possible in Canberra. Notably, Nizpro tunes are far cheaper than those on offer at other Canberra Flashsperts who some would have us believe are the viable alternative. Dingah

Dingah... Just get the Stage 2 and you won't notice anything of what has been posted above. Jack ← .......Stop it Jack....6 days and counting.......... Dingah

Fallacy: humidity does not kill power, sounds more like the sort of folk lore that governs to many folks' minds. perhaps best left as another excuse for a poor dyno reading more like. The impact is almost immeasurable; you are both making a link between high humidity = high temperature, which I did not in my post. It is the temp first and then then altitude that will impact the charge density available far more than the presence of water vapour. Dingah

Trans oil cooler, line pressure ramps through Edit and it'l hold fine. Start breaking apart the gearbox for mods is all too often the start of a slippery slide, many many seem to return for more 'mods' under the banner that the initial ones were development mods. Have a talk to Simon at Nizpro on that one you'll find the discussion illuminating! Dingah

A fair bit of exprience with these setups. DBA 400 slotted (not cross-drilled which then become cross-cracked) and Racebrakes RB74 competition pads $160 a set for Premos - far cheaper than Ferodos etc - they have a higher temp rating than almost anything available but are fine for street use. Have never managed to fade them using Motul race spec fluid and braided lines. They are superior to Ultimates without quite as much cold bite and do not produce as much dust. Failing the RB74s use Bendix Ultimates or Red EBC, good cold bite Ultimates will eventually fall apart long before the RB74s but it takes some doing. Do not recommend Lucas as they are a cheap alternative and QFMs are a better cheap alternative. Dingah

Humidity is a bit of a red herring - because it makes us feel warm and uncomfortable one thinks it is the same for the engine in fact under certain conditions higher humidity can slow the onset of detonation allowing lightly more timing = a smig more timing + performance - in all likelihood insufficient to notice though. Dingah

Where did you get your Edit done? Dingah

...or the auto transmission! Dingah

He ALWAYS uses a Dyno and their own is in by Easter too. Dingah

are you kidding? The 3MPS is a goat to drive, torques steers every time you plant it - reminsicent of the Cordia Turbo and about as attractive. Dingah

Last week an owner of a modded XR6T Ute brought his jack in for us to see! Hole Hell this thing looked like a piece of twised tin foil. That day he had used the jack to change his rear tyres twice and on the second occasion had just located the last rear tyre on the studs and whammo, down comes the ute. A very chilling reminder to what is written in every handbook and on factory scissor jacks - do NOT get under the car if it is resting solely on that apparatus! Dingah

And the reason the ZFs are stock is no one is game enough to touch them! Dingah

Good luck with that. Hopefully by reporting an open circuit, it may just have been a poor connection on the solenoid connectors ← Dingah

SO far so good. Glen a ESP pulled the pan down and thoroughly checked and re-assembled and crimped all loom connections and checked through the resistance of the loom and S5 slenoid and currently all appears good again. Bloody hope so as it's a delibating fault! Dingah

Thanks Ninka - the valve body was modded by Tony Dominello at Dural a couple of years ago when tuning first began, so I am hoping that the solenoids remained standard in order to make sourcing a replacement easier. Dingah

The cost of a replacement transmission! BTW about $350 Dingah

Now have downloaded codes which indicate S5 solenoid (adjustable line pressure) going to open circuit. Connections and solenoid will be checked out and if necessary replaced next week (approx $70 for a replacment). Dingah

$130-150 for a 342 anything more is a bit of a rip. Driftshop will take you as close to the bottom lline as anyone. Dingah