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dingah2

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Everything posted by dingah2

  1. Have PBR premos on the front with Territory rear, RB74 pad front and standard rear with braided lines and Motul fluid and that provides a more than adequate, smooth, non-squealing, fade-free set of stoppers. Anyone tried the new Bendix Road, track and street pads yet? Dingah
  2. These are a fine tyre providing you can avoid the Korean/Chinese made versions whereas PP2s are consistent and quieter. Dingah
  3. Correct. Dingah
  4. I am running the PBR premos on the frnt and recently conveted the rear to Territory. The Ford callipers were $180 ish and $210ish each for the rears and that included the pads so I'd get your prices verified. The rotors were about $200 ish each. Standard front callipers with DBA 4000 slotted and either Ultimates or Racebrakes RB74 pads will provide a quantum improvement in the fornt end. Dingah
  5. Welcome too. Mods = warranty issues regardless of car or dealer, so the decision is yours to make. here are countless threads for new folk you on mods - God knows I've written enogh of the posts. Pleas learn to use the search funciton on this forum and then apply those skills. Many well meaning folk on this forum will short change you unless you make the effort. Cheers, Dingah
  6. I was tossed the keys to a new VE GTS the other day while my suspension was being finished off. Not biased towards any particular brand as they are just cars but in comparison to a Cobra Stage 2 XR6T it felt fairly inept. THe handling with the TRAC suspension on was darn good, harsh at low speed though, the speed off the line was pretty good too but the whole thing felt a bit like trying to rush a bus once it got to around 4000RPM - seemed like all you were doing was turning over a lot of reciprocating bits and little else. Base upon that I suspect you'd be struggling off the line but given enough space and striaght lines somewhere in second gear it could get interesting once the long suite of your torque comes into play. Mind you if you are either behind him or slightly in front n the right he wont be able to see you, the rear visibility and forward A pillar are shocking for traffic visibility. As a side note the instrument lighting is woeful too - in aviation we gave away the night vision related red lighting myth decades ago. Dingah
  7. Mine's exactly as per antisocial's setp. No long leads, doesn't vibrate, doesn't get in the way like Ford phone preenter which was removed afte 6 months frustration and Bluetooth connectivity means that you really only need it for the purposes of charging it. Dingah
  8. Quieter than any tyre I have used are the Michelin Pilot Preceda 2 - great grip wet or dry, excellent turn-in to corners; a quality tyre at a good price too. My 235/40/18s were $340 a corner. Dingah
  9. I am running the Bilsteins all round with King springs and new bushings all round which were fitted after I had a 27mm front sway bar fitted. Sway bar alone makes a great difference, corners like a smaller car. Recommended to fit 30mm sway bar with the Billsteins and that has made an amazing diference - not harsh, not hoppy or choppy but VERY flat and responsive to inputs. Leave the rear swaybar alone. Dingah
  10. dingah2

    BRAKE SHUDDER ISSUE

    Warp and shudder generally result from differential heating across the rotor disc again generally caused by humans and not necessarily technology. Auto drivers are most at risk.....after firm braking there is a fair amount of heat around the disc and callipers to be dissipated, that car now arrives at the traffic in front - cross roads or red lights and after coming to a halt leaves foot on brake and callipers in firm contact with one section of the disc rotor. There is now a progressively significant heat differential between the area clamped between the hot fluid, callipers and pads and the rest of the disc = warp discs = pedal pulsing and shuddering next time you brake. In a manual one tends to go for neutral and handbrake which avoids that issue. Dingah
  11. Hey guys - you want half decent brakes then you'll get dust so get over it. Dropping a high quality pad for a locally produced brand makes absolutley no sense if the issue is dust - what's your and our lives worth?! Simple and effective BA upgrade is genuine DBA 4000 slotted and Bendix Ultimates - beyond that fit the BF II/Territory rear calipers (about $400 retail the set with pads for callipers), add high qulity fluid and then braided lines. Dingah
  12. Oil line jammed up with carbon deposits and 15000km oil changes - are these related? Dingah
  13. Keep researching - the correct Ford Iridiums for BA Turbo are half that price from Ford parts Dept . Dingah
  14. Mine 18x8s are excellent, true and good finish - no unwanted features and they included Ford Centre caps. Dingah
  15. There appears to be a plethora of very law abiding and responsible folk here which is gratifying. If we are all pottering down to the shops at or below the speed limits and never behaving in a manner likely to raise concern then why are we not all driving Camrys and Avalons? The purchase of an XR6T is in itself an expression of intent....be honest! Dingah
  16. I paid a little bit less than that for Billsteins all round, King springs all round, huge sway bar and new bushes plus alignments. Dingah
  17. Agreed. Dingah
  18. Brad: Give Simon at Nizpro a call, his export F6s are peing prepped with a full Tein set-up. Dingah
  19. Pause and think a second or two..... As the driver of the vehicle under suspicion you are the last one to judge whether or not you have been hooning. If others judge you to be driving in an abnormal or threatening manner, including law enforcement agencies, that judgement is far more likely to be a reasonable basis for action. No one and I mean no one has the God given right to make others feel uncomfortable or threatened in any way on our roads by exhibiting selfish, or stupid behaviour, likely to influence the thinking or behaviour of others. A car is nothing more than a mode of transport from point A to point B - it is not a way of expressing your repressed character faults. 140 in a 60 - get a life and find another forum. Dingah
  20. Sadly Tommo as nice a bloke as you are with your credentials many of us are disappointed that you managed to get insurance at all! The fact you are covered doesn't make me feel any safer at all. Dingah
  21. As per Goldie. If limits of breathing are addressed - Cat and air induction system, and sufficient fuel provided through appropriately sized injectors, together with valve springs changed you can reasonably confidently expect to sustain 330RWKW or 390-400 at the flywheel with standard internals. Your driving style and maintenance regime will also need to be considered in that figure. Go search the threads on this forum. A weekend spend doing research will give you more then enough detail to anser your question in some detail. Dingah
  22. The hopping cure is mainly the dampers, spring rates contribute too but not the swaybar. In fact too stiffer a swaybar on the rear can prevent the rear from peforming at it is designed to. The 30mm swaybar is a big bastard but after a drive tonight it seems to finish it all off very well - some scary cornering moments coming now as the speed one can maintain in corners is amazing. Was really offended on the way home as out of the blue a VL CDRE Turbo with God know's what boost thought he''d have a go at a set of lights.....well what could I do, had to uphold our marque's reputation - 2 lengths in the the first 50 metres - why bother........what a fool! Safe driving guys, Dingah
  23. Try these: Dingah Apologies for duplication, must have left my hat with the propellor on at work!
  24. Sorry been off air for a couple of days. Will get some pics on tomorrow for you guys. As for galconn's colour blindness - I guess it's an age factor thing. No our cars are definitely not the same so I'll do measurements as well. Currently running on a 27mm swaybar on the front and standard on the rear as there are some delivery issues with the 30mm front bar due suplliers being bought out. Nevertheless, yes the swaybar is Whiteline and the 30mm which should be about 50% stiffer again goes on this afternoon. The rear remains standard so that the rear suspension can still work as effectively in corners. I guess the initial impresion is that the suppleness of the ride remains pleasant, it does not become overly harsh at all, the ride height dropped about 3/4" and I really didn't want more than 1/2" due to the porr old APS Cat becoming the target of every Woolies car park speed bump. Little bit flatter in corners (the stiffer sway bar will sort that) and the line remains constant under hard bumpy corners whereas before it would hop around and changeline if striking something mid corner. I note that the suspension must be working overtime in those situations but am not at all conscious of it inside the car. The onset of understeer is far more gentle and progressive and deeper wings on the sports seats would be nice! Have not yet got to the oversteer transition with power application. Overall feels VERY nimble under normal manoeuvering, steering lght and responsive, sticks to its line impressively well for such a heavy car in conering but is not at all nervous when coming off the straight ahead position. The height from ground to top of wheel arch is exactly 650mm front and rear with 350mm from hub centre to top of whel arch both front and rear. The exact height of sill bottom to ground, measured exactly under the driver's door handle position is 170mm. I am running 18s with 235/40 PP2s car had a 3/4 fuel load at the tme of measurement. Dingah
  25. I'd certainly endorse that approach. Emotional intelligence (maturity) is not just a factor of age but experience and there little doubt that there is a corellation between age and experience - hence the rather alarming statistics supporting the theory that young folk and cars are a potentially dangerous mix. Not a day goes by without yet another occurrence where a Gen X/Y demonstrates great awareness of their rights with almost no thought for the responsibilities that go with them. I have taken three teenagers through to adulthood and sure it was not without its challenges. As a parent one always wants to see one's kids go down the middle of the road of life, however, how do you know where the centre is without having first discovered the far edges!? A graduated system of qualifications and approvals makes sense as it might be able to track experience and age better than the current system. Let's face it, currently all youngsters do is learn to pass a test not to drive.....and therein lies the root of much of our dilemma. Dingah
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