sd1800

Hey guys, I'm just about to get my diff bushes done, and I was wondering if there is anything else that is worthwhile changing while the diff is being dropped. I.e. anything that wears fast, or I would achieve noticeable difference by swapping with superpro gear. The aim here is to kill two or three birds with one stone while I'm paying the labour anyway.

Got under the car today to have a look at the uni and the centre bearing. Does this look like a normal amount of movement?

Thanks for the feedback guys. Interesting about the noise coming from the turbo. I tend to think it won't be it as I can't get it to replicate the noise under any other low / mid / high boost scenario in any other gear or neutral. I checked engine mounts the other day by loading it up in gear with the handbrake on and bonnet up. Very minimal movement so it won't be that. Also interestingly is the noise doesn't occur when I did this, so leads me to have think it's a driveshaft rotation-under-load issue rather than clutch/flywheel. Also checked the gear stick mounting and it's totally A-OK. Thanks for that suggestion though! I can see I've got a small split on my centre diff bush. Will be replacing that soon with super pro. Maybe that's causing it, or is a flow on effect (unusual angle on the centre bearing when taking off due to tailshaft dropping down due to shagged centre bush?) Speaking of centre bearing, for years now I have read very conflicting stories about whether FG MK2 bearings are replaceable, or if the tailshaft is just one single unit. Is there a definitive thread on this subject?

Hi Guys, hoping you can help me diagnose a noise coming from my driveline that has been getting progressively more noticeable over the last 3 months or so. I have included a video below. Listen for the wobble-board type sound when accelerating in 1st gear between about 1000-2000rpm. It only really does it when accelerating away from low speed or a standstill, and you can't replicate the noise in any other scenario outside of that. In the video below, I've kept the clutch fully engaged the whole time to demonstrate that it isn't a noise that occurs when the clutch is being slipped from a standstill. And it sounds like it's originating from the driveline (not the engine bay). I'm leaning towards the doughnut or centre bearing, but a quick visual inspection under the car showed they appeared to be OK (but I'm not 100% what I'm looking for either!). Keen to hear your thoughts before I take it to a shop!

You make a fairly valid point! Will the PWR kit bolt up to FG?

I've been trying to research what my options are here, but I can't seem to find anyone that does a kit for the FG. I did a search on these forums and I can see a post from 5-10 years ago that said Process West were looking at doing one, but I can't find anything more recent. I guess the reason I was after a kit is the reassurance it would be fit for purpose, as well as the brackets and oil lines ready to bolt on. I can see PWR do a kit for BA/BF, but it's not cheap and apparently won't bolt up to a FG. What has everyone else done for their FGs?

Excuse the thread mine..... This problem keeps re-appearing!!! Today is the third time this problem has re-appeared in 3 years. I just used the search function and found my own forgotten thread from 3-4 years ago! Each time I've had issues I have just done the above fix and it has worked, but has anyone found a long term solution to this (the poor connection with the harness for the steering wheel buttons)? Getting sick of having to pull the steering wheel apart every 12 months.

I don't know what I was doing wrong, but I found it incredibly difficult to access the aux wiring. I couldn't pop out the aux port with a flathead screwdriver and short of removing the entire centre console which I wasn't keen on doing, I couldnt work it out. Anyway, just thought I'd provide an alternative solution if it helps anyone else in the future. The electric seat base has a constant 12v. There are three plugs there (airbags, seatbelt monitoring etc), but the base is the one with only 4 wires and a smaller white plug. The 12v wire is black with white stripe. I tapped into this and ran the cable underneath the driver's seat and then up underneath the centre console.

I think you'll find the general consensus around here is Mal Wood Option 3+. Its rated at 410rwkw. Should drive as well as the standard clutch on the street. If you're getting close to 400rwkw I'd probably be inclined to go the option 4 for extra peace of mind, albeit heavier.

Set a new PB at Wakefield yesterday with a 1-13:2. However didn't get into the 1-12s with the new mods so abit disappointed. Hopefully as I get used to the car next time I'll take further second or two off. The Shockworks have definetely reversed the cars tendency to understeer as I did with the factory setup. I'd even say now that it oversteers a tad too much for my liking. Feels like I spent half the day going sideways. With that being said, the bald Nittos on the back would not have been helping at all.. Unfortunately I've developed abit of a rough/hunting idle since yesterday's thrash. It's nothing dramatic, maybe up and down 50rpm. Really hoping it's just a leaky intake manifold and nothing more sinister with the valve train :(

Nah won't be able to make that one unfortunately. Are there more Aussie cars at the track school events? I'm usually one of only 3/4 Commos / Falcons at the circuit club days. Endless 86s and mx5s though. That's a bloody good time mate! What work have you done? My 113:8 was stock other than tune @ 287rwkw. This will be my first time out since bigger brakes and shockworks. If I could take a second off I'd be happy...

Thanks. I'll look into the aux. The problem im having with leaving all the other bits on the cig lighter, is that the backlights remain on all time regardless of if the headlights are on or not.

Hey guys, just thought I'd see if anyone was heading out to Wakefield Park next Sunday?

Thanks for that! I've come across another snag. Guages work fine, but to wire them up properly I need to find the easiest constant 12v and a 12v light circuit. For the short term I've got all three just wired to the cig lighter, but the backlights remain on during the day and it doesn't save my settings when I turn the car off. Both expected. Anyone have any tips about where I could find the easiest circuits to tap into? I didn't really want to have to pull out the ICC, but it's kind of looking that might be my only option....

Thanks lads. I feel like abit of an idiot - after your replies it took me about 5 seconds to lift up the floor mat and find the grommet underneath the passenger footwell. Didnt even need to remove the glovebox. My mistake the other day was trying to find it and remove it from the engine bay as that's how I remember it from the EB, not realising it was so easily accessible from the cabin! While we're on topic, anything I should be aware of or tips regarding wiring them up to the 12v? They are just $50 SAAS Guages so I didn't plan on fusing them seperately, especially since the cig lighter circuit is fused anyway.

Hi Guys, sorry for the really simple/stupid question but I've searched endlessly and can't find the answer I'm looking for. I bought 3x52mm guages the other day to mount where the tissue box is, but I couldn't find which grommet to route the wires through for Boost, Oil Pres and Oil Temp without damaging it! I didn't think it was a good idea to be drilling through them in case water gets in the cabin in the future, but is that the only way? In auto cars people talk about using the grommet for the clutch, but with mine being a manual that is not an option... Last time I did this stuff was installing a stereo in my EB about 12 years ago. I seem to remember it being much simpler...

My cooler is only a PWR stage 1 as I didn't want to have to cut it to fit. However I made sure the tuner was aware that I was tracking the car, so as it was explained to me (I'm no tuner!) he intentionally kept it very safe by not absolutely maxing the turbo out and generating un-necessary heat for the sake of an extra 10 or 15rwkw. I believe it's also erring on the rich side for same cooling reasons but can't confirm 100%. Car ended up making 287rwkw which is abit below the 300rwkw benchmark for the mods I have. I was watching intake temps on OBD2 on the track and I don't remember them ever getting above 44c It sounds like other people have it much worse than me. I never get a cooling warning on the dash and it takes several hot laps for the coolant needle to start climbing.

Yeah I totally understand, I'm not that naive...haha. For me its a legal way to have some fun without worrying about the boys in blue, rather than it being overly competive. If it means I have to regular cool downs every 2nd lap and/or drive at 80% rather than 100%, then I'm alright with that. Nevertheless I still want to take necessary precautions and monitor oil temps etc.

Nah I won't be at the trackschool event, but looking at maybe going with Circuit Club again in mid June. I remember seeing your ride at Circuit Club about 5 years ago at Wakefield (I was out there with my XR5T at the time). Good to see your still at it! Do you still do any of the Circuit Club days? I did some research and found the PWR BA-BF 55mm Radiator but it seemed to be about the $1000 mark. It might be stretching my budget a bit for just abit of fun in the daily'. Might just have to do regular cool-downs. Are you saying the Fenix BF radiators will fit the FG with no modification? If that's the car, what was the difference between the two in the first place? Yes winter will help no doubt, and I do always go for a drive down the highway after sessions for a cool down. @arronm That kit looks pretty cool but also seems to be about $900? It must be pretty big! There seems to be a universal PWR oil cooler 280x256x37 for about $320 but then I guess you need to get lines made up and brackets fabricated and buy a separate thermo..... Next step for me I think is just to make sure I have a oil temp guage next time and understand just how hot it's getting. I am doing regular cool down laps at the moment and driving with a fair bit of mechanical sympathy so I might not need such an epic solution. On the positive, just picked up 3000km old adjustable shockworks and a 355mm/325mm PBR Big Brake Kit with Braided Lines a few days ago as a package at a good price. Looking forward to seeing the difference, on the street and track!

They are certainly alot better than they were 10 years ago with a 4 speed slushbox behind a n/a 2litr. However (my 2c only of course) I would never-ever consider an automatic hot hatch. I feel it just completely contradicts the aura of what the car is about. Engaging connected drive, go kart handling, smashing through the gears etc etc

When I did the coolant flush before Anzac day I replaced the thermostat with a 88c high flow one (previous was factory 91c). I was reluctant to go to 82c as I felt this may have caused it to start running rich as the tune hasn't factored this in. Either way, I don't think the thermostat is going to make a difference for me at this stage as by the time you pull out of the pits the coolant is already mid 90s+ and the thermotat will be wide open. Feel free to correct me if I've got any of this wrong. Any recommendations for Radiators and Oil Coolers? I've seen the name Fenix dropped around here abit for radiators.... Will they just drop in or do you need to do some custom brackets/mounts for the bigger ones? Also, any thoughts on a Thermo Fan Override switch? Thinking I could flick this before I head out on track days only. Also will try some Water Wetter which I've read some good things about, and am going to have an oil temp guage next time so I can ensure I'm not pushing it dangerously high.

I actually saw one of these go around Wakefield last week doing a low 1-12. Apparently a pro driver did a 1-09 with semi slicks, but I didn't witness that one. Nevertheless they aren't just a i30 with a spoiler and 2psi boost like I initially thought. They also sound quite angry. Lots of pops and bangs. This and the Stinger have really changed my perspective somewhat on the Korean offering as of late.

Your Name: Sean Car Make and Model: FG mkII XR6T Manual Circuit Name: Wakefield Park Lap time: 1-13:8 Modifications: Bosch 1000cc Injectors, PWR Stage 1 Intercooler, Venom Cat, Ported Wastegate, Tune Engine: 4.0T Power: A very safe and linear 287rwkw on a conservative dyno Suspension: Stock Tyres: Fronts Michelin PS4S, Rears Worn Nitto NT05's Brakes: QFM A1RM's. Motul RBF600. Calipers and discs standard Body weight: Standard Weight Had some fun out at the 'Park on Anzac day. Was really happy with my time considering stock suspension and mostly stock brakes. Downside - had the dreaded overheating. After a few hotlaps coolant temp would get up to about 116-117c. A cool down lap would bring it down to 100c but I definitely need to get this sorted before the next session. Thinking I'll also get an oil cooler and oil temp guage for peace of mind next time. Also thinking of getting some coilovers. Tossing up between Shockworks and MCA Reds. Are the MCA's worth the extra $1k? Bearing in mind the car is the family car the other 98% of the time, I'd still like to keep it relatively compliant as a daily.

I can confirm it isn't rollover noise. Rollover noise is just a rattle at idle with the clutch OUT, or at <1000rpm rpm in gear. As per your second point and as you have already indicated, it seems to be gear related rather than RPM (pressure plate) or road speed(driveline). I would as a first port of call replace the gearbox oil with the Penrite stuff which is relatively inexpensive. I use mainlube, but it's expensive as sin and if it turns out it doesn't resolve the issue and you need to drop the brand new oil it will be a big $$$ waste. Good luck finding out what it is!

Sure it's not coming from the radio/speakers? I'll occasionally hear a whirring sound which is coming from my speakers due to what I imagine is poor grounding somewhere. Might just be a co-incidence and not related to the electrical system at all? Mine would work fine 10 minutes after startup, but then just not set. My issue was with the wiring. Disconnect the battery, remove the horn pad and air bag which will reveal the looms for the steering wheel switches. Give them a good spray with electrical contact cleaner and see if that fixed your issue.