JK89

Hey boys anyone got a spare block? Need to start a slow rebuild. Building a house ATM So any help or info with a block would be much appreciated can help with any Turbo work or engine modification etc etc. Cheers Rip571

Get it tuned elsewhere. Think using no names here have have had a bad run lately. Try some one else rdp or efi. See what they say ...

Wouldnt mind testing the screamer through the airport link haha ... Cooly tunnel defened me. I dont think an o2 sensor is going to be your problem mate ... That's just gonna effect the fuel economy through the computer. If ve looking for a cracked piston or fatigued piston or split oil rings unfortunately. Because that is a lot o smoke haha. My o2 sensor crappe itself and fuel economy burnt a hole in my wallet

Nah only 300rwkw. Goes good but was a fun day.

Haha do you like it? Wasnt a bad day either. Just don't know about old mate in the green sedans engine ... Blowing a lot of smoke everywhere... Cracked piston or piston rings maybe on the way out

Monaro had 300rwkw. Don't know where 400rwkw came from. What's ftmfw mean?

the are not ceramic. they are silicone nitrade ball bearings. far better heat resistance, a lot lighter and tougher then standard steel ball bearings. Just remember to do the daily oil changes! have fun with it.

The standard bearing pack can be replaced but will have to be re balanced. VSR balance is the best way to balance these turbo's

contact mark at mr turbo on 07 5596 1079 will be able to help you for sure the bearing system is designed to prevent a blockage in the oil inlet from the bearing housing to bearing pack. Would highly recommend changing the oil inlet line to a braiden line to prevent blocks in the line and then actual inlet of the housing. pm if you need any more info jk89

Because I milled the seating area flat and took away approximately 2mm I had to reset the valve position so I made sure that it wouldnt hit on the back lip of the porting. that is the hardest part to make sure it seats properly on the valve seat and actuatates without getting caught or stuck! thanks for the comments so far! Haha I know the feeling, im taking mine off for the second time to put a billet turbochargers to4z core in to replace the garrett one! I did leave some parts out, I forgot to take photo's which would definately help people for example the prep of the valve arm and so on. But that is all dependant on the whole size and circularity (if that's a word) of the hole you port.

I thought I would post a complete revised method for the flapper valve upgrade for xr6 turbo owners! Step 1 - Remove the turbo from your vehicle. Please allow up to three hours to do so if you do not have the correct tools or have not done this once before! Step 2 - Index the turbine housing to the bearing housing. This is to ensure that when you re attach the turbo back to the manifold the oil inlet/drain are 180 degrees to each other with the oil inlet at 0 degrees. Refer to picture below The Bare Housing itself ready for work! Step 3 - Remove the existing flapper valve and actuator flange piece Step 4 - This is probably one of the more important stages in the whole process. You must mill the flapper seat flat so that when the valve is shut it sits flush with the surface of the seat! If you not you may get some unwanted turbo lag from leaks! Step 5 - Is to port the valve area from standard to approximately 35mm on diametre. The verniers are just indicating the size of the original hole. Step 6 - Re attach the new valve, ensuring that is sits flush to the seat area and that the actuator flange piece is lined up correctly to the actuator. you can use a pen light to shine in through the footprint to the valve area to test that it is sitting flush with no leaks! Make sure you do this before and after welding the valve in!! Step 7 - Finished Product!! Step 8 - Re position the bearing housing back in the turbine housing aligning it to the previous indexing marks you made at the beginning. Then to put it back on the manifold! Happy Days! If anyone would like me to do this for you I would be more then happy just shoot me an email at j.kelly8@live.com and we can sort something out! Hope this helps and clarifies any uncertainties or unanswered questions that you may have! Hopefully this becomes a bible more or less to help people get through this!!

not turbo will check actuator now. Hopefully just the plumbing from actuator to t-piece has a leak!

Hey guys, quick question whenever I hit 10psi it will hit and hold for about 2 secs whilst foot is still flat to the ground and then start going back down to 7psi. Would a boost leak or faulty cat cause this to happen? somedays it will hit 15psi as well but I think that's just the cold nights screwing with something. It only sort of happens during the day when I give it a kick. any respone is much appreciateds. James.

Going to get a standard xr6 BA/BF bottom end, as they are the same just different componants you can pick up a complete engine for less then $1000. Then gonna strip it re-machine/hone and get new goodies for it. ie rods, pistons, cams and valve springs. Spoke to a couple of guys today who know their stuff and they said that would work well as long as machining and honing is correct! the next 2 months worth of w.e's are gone now :(

Cool. well now I have an idea of what I need to do. does anyone know if you can use a standard non turbo ba/bf bottem end and rebuild it? or are the tolerances and whatnot completely different? As I would prefer to build a bottem end and then put it in once ready. As a xr6t engine is worth 4-5k and a standard engine is 800.

The turbo is not costing me anything. its more a promotional thing on the ute for billetturbochargers. Yes vsprings are on the board and thinking of putting a BF/F6 bottom end in to support the turbo. gearbox is questionable at the moment. wont be hooning/draging/skidding in it just a nice daily with a good power figure to match the turbo. If anyone has a t56 gearbox for sale I would be more then happy to trade something of value ie turbo etc etc. please let me know.

Yeah was gonna do valve springs. was thinking about opening the engine and changing the rods as well to be safe. but just wana keep it for a everyday use with the t04z turbo on stock internals and of course good response without a leg out of bed lol

Ba ute sorry 03.

mr turbo australia will port exh hsg rrp $375. as to the surge problem with bovs etc you can anti surge the front cover. not a bad option either! hope this helps.

Hey all, Just a general question, these are the mods and power I have: HD clutch 4" dump pipe with 3" exhaust .70 comp Cover Upgraded front mount 3" cold side plumbing (ally) 2 1/4" hot side plumbing Larger Injectors fuel pump making roughly 400hp atw @ 10psi - t5 gearbox Now I have a billet turbo going on, t04z front and rear wheel with the billet centre. going to machine the exh and comp cover to suit ( reason for rear wheel being upgraded is that people are getting back compression problems so opted to have both wheels changed) its going in the standard rear housing with the 38mm flapper valve upgrade. Now im hoping to push around 440hp atw is this achievable what are peoples thoughts on this? the car has had no problems running the 400hp and shows no signs of dieing. I will gain on response with having the larger turbine wheel in the std housing and the upgraded bearing system that mr turbo offers in the billet range. Anyone have any feedback or opinions? no looking for feedback on the billet turbocharger range. I trust and would prefer to run billet over garrett. My opinion regards.

Alot of turbo problems especially with the factory garrett gt35r are the bearing inlet holes which feed the bearing pack. they do not always line up with the machining of the cast housing. I have seen many that do not line up in thus starving the turbo of oil. Good and obvious way to tell is hot spots on the actual bearing pack. I would highly recommending using a mr turbo gt35r bearing replacement cartridge. As the bearing system is different, in speaking so the bearing holes align 100% to the bearing carrier which feeds the bearings themselves. Also you will gain around 15% percent on spool response, since the bearings are aerograde space quality. Ie lighter, stronger and harder then standard steel bearings. Cartridges are retail of around the $1250 mark and are all assemebled and machined in australia. Once doing so as many have said change the oil in line to a braided line. will save you a lot of headaches in the future. Do not listen to ford you must warm up and cool down you turbo vehicle and change the oil every 5000km. .70AR comp covers and wastegate porting are also a good option to do if the turbo is off the vehicle as everyone knows they are not a fun job to remove and put back on! any questions just pm me cheers JK

roughly the 150-200 mark at mta turbo for t he machining. Unfortunatly if you want the to4z wheel installed it will have to be re balanced and assembled. ring mta turbo 5596 1079

The hole is .80mm. which like 32thou or something, Unfortunatly you cant run a bigger hole, its mainly the oil inlet holes matching to the oil grooves in the bearing pack. which from my experience never line up 100%, and thus starvaing the turbo of oil. but since there is 'some'(minimal) sort of oil getting to the bearing garratt will not cover this under warranty :(. Mark at mr turbo showed me the mta cores where they have individually machined to match the oil grooves on his bearing setup which supplies adequate oil supply. I wouldnt bother with another garrett core in my own personal experience. Kinda like a kinder surprise never going to know how good the oil inlet and grooves line up its just chance haha

Yes eenlarging the oil feed will result in the turbo overoiling and lead eventually to turbo failure.

Sounds like your wheels has contacted the front cover. which is not good! There are mta cores going for $1100 retail. that's with a silicon nitrade bearing system. Garaunteed oil flow and faster spool rate. Unfortunatly the garrett oil feeds do not match up 100% to the oil grooves on the bearing back which causes oil starvation to the bearing pack. Try and stay away from ebay, you get what you pay for. And for a unit that spins at 100 000+ rpm you want a reliable unit. If your compressor wheel is sulvagable then you can put a new bearing pack in for around the 700-800 mark. call mark at mr turbo. had no problems from there and run a MTA core. 07 5596 1079 hope this helps