Max Power

Even though Ive updated the intake, I still retain the crossover section cause Ive heard that its been tested a few of times by different people and its not a restriction.

I mentioned in my opening thread that Ive just updated my I/C which includes intake mods and want to fix up what might be a potentially restricted exhaust before I find out the hard (and costly) way during the retune. My exhaust isnt an APS. I mentioned APS for Buf-Phoon's experience with exhausts where he went from an APS to a custom 4" system and picked up over 30rwkw from that mod alone. Against an APS system that's definitely saying something. My exhaust is a 3.5" dump, 3.5" metal cat, 3.5" intermediate and then it splits into 2 3" pipes up and over the diff to quad tips. 325rwkw/18psi is rather high and that's what Im trying to cure. My car has never been a dyno queen however it does perform quite well against higher powered cars on private roads.

Ok guys. Im confused and need help Buf-Phoon, who was at the same power level as I am now, recently replaced his APS system which is a proven performer with a custom 4" dump, cat and intermediate etc and picked up over 30rwkw. This contradicts whats been said here. So whats right and whats not? Exhaust mods is one of the 1st performance mods that T owners do so I just want to set the record straight as this is what forums are for.

To be politically correct the edit box should read 'Edit/Unichip/Unichip+Edit'

Wow Adam. Wasnt expecting that. Thought bigger was better. So shouldnt I touch a thing or just upgrade the cat and if so with what?

Thanks guys. Youre swaying me away from the 4" dump. Any more feedback will be appreciated. How about what I said about the rest of the exhaust? Will changing the intermediate pipe to 4" from 3.5" and hi-flowing the 3.5" cat to suit the way to go?

Bump.

What about this for a group buy? Get a tuner/mechanic to do bottom ends; rods = $ 1000 pistons = $ 700 balance = $ 300 gaskets, etc = $ 500 labour = $ 1000 --------- total = $ 3500 Surely this price is possible. Im sure there will be lots of customers

Ive got a 3.5" dump pipe and am looking at getting a 4" to remove any restriction. Ive read somewhere else that there isnt much point in having a larger dump pipe if the turbo is the same. Ive also read that a 4" dump pipe takes away some bottom end torque. Im currently at 325rwkw and dont want to increase power too much more but rather remove some boost as its currently at 18psi. Since the 325/18 tune where the IC was found to be the restriction, Ive gone to a larger IC and want to sort out the exhaust before it goes back for a retune. So can the experts add their 2c worth? Ive also got a 3.5" cat and 3.5" pipe that splits into 2 3" pipes at the diff and out the back on opposite sides. I was told that the cat can be hi-flowed to fit the 4" pipe which will replace the 3.5". Is this the right way to go?

You should be greatful Jeff. When I get them then you can stick the orange ones on yours that youve always wanted

Saw the cobra stripes on the GT 40th anniversary on the FPV site and want them. Im sure that unless theyre exactly the same colour then it will look all wrong. Anyone out there help me source these? If youre gonna be a tranny then excel at it

You can't go to 375 rwkw safely with F6 rods, nor will your pistons last long at those power levels If you go beyond 350 rwkw's you need a properly built bottom end, with forged pistons and billet rods, and if you like revving high, a stronger oil pump ← Sounds a bit conservative but its your opinion I guess. I tend to think that the F6 rods and standard pistons should be ok for 375rwkw then again I dont have a mechanic's licence - just based on what Ive heard around here.

How does the head and turbo fail from a broken rod?? I agree that the sump, block and possibly the crank will be damaged, but head and turbo - I dont think so. Anyway, I agree with your assessment for the rest of your post, even if the language is a bit strong ← I know how - I know of 2 cases where the rod has come out the side of the block and taken out the turbo with its momentum. Its uncanny how its more times than not the rod adjacent to the turbo that collects it on the way out. The head gets damaged when the rod snaps and the piston travels up, up and away into the head.

Saw in another thread that a new bottom end (with the F6 rods) is $1800 from Ford.

Bummer I just missed out (by 18 months) So what am I looking at as a bare bones approach to just getting some F6 rods installed? Obviously, you can do alot more while the motor is apart but just want the rods done so I can go to 375rwkw without sweating at redline (currently at 325). .......maybe the oil pump also as Ive heard theyre a weak link. Fat-tony? Anyone?

Hey Trough. That's kind of my saying too - have it in my sig for years.

It just so happens that my 12 year old has been perstering me to get him the Haro V3 which comes with disc brakes for $599. Are these any good and is the price on the money?

that's what I want to do too Chris. Mine is a Dec 04 BA2.

Hope your problem isnt from mixing up the lines and have your return going to the charcoal canister

Im very close to getting the BF GT-P wheels and tyres in 19's. Shopping around for a good deal, a Sydney tyre/wheel shop came up a little more pricier than someone else but told me that there were 2 different copies of the same wheel, one being better quality than the other and, of course, his were the better ones hence the cost. Can anyone tell me what to look for to avoid the inferior copy and/or can someone point/recommend me to someone local that's offering a good tyre/wheel package on these? Im located in Sydney.

I know that the BA F6 rods are stronger than the BA1 XR6T. I also know that the BF F6 and XR6T rods are the same. Im still not sure if the BA2 XR6T rods are different to the F6 remembering that the F6 first came out in the BA2. If they are different then Ford had 2 engine assembly lines for the turbo alone which Im finding difficult to believe. When asked, a local and well respected tuner had also 'heard' that they were different but couldnt confirm as he hadnt stripped a BA2 XR6T to find out. Having said that, I also havent heard of any BA2 XR6Ts throwing or bending rods like the BA1's. Can the experts out there confirm that the rods in the BA2 XR6T and an F6 are the same or different please?

Had a little chuckle when I saw the title. Have to admit, the same happened to me a couple of years ago. I had the new plugs ready to go and was stumped when I removed the heat shield and couldnt find the old plugs. Got under the car and couldnt find them under the inlet manifold either. Its funny now looking back but unless youre told its not that obvious. Im expecting someone to come on now (probably envy-t) and say something like...if the cyls are vertical and if theres 4 valves per cyl then the plug will be mounted in a vertical and central position to the cyl. (ha! - got in 1st)

If they flatbed the car away then there wouldnt be much of a gearbox left from dragging it in park. Am I right?

So does anyone make a bigger replacement pipe for this?

An alternative to removing the battery (also for those reset-o-phobes) is to remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the radiator expansion tank and move it out of the way to get to the boost solenoid that way. I also removed the screw (philips head) holding the solenoid bracket and moved it up and back into the space where the expansion tank was and 10 minutes later all done. Thanks again Zap for the idea.