Max Power

Here is some stuff I have be working on. The bigger the cubic cm figures could be way out as I have no way of actually measuring any of this accurately. Also it does not mean that IC is better. A thinner IC with a larger surface area can be more efficient than a thicker one. A thicker IC will however have a greater cubic area. Food for thought. This just shows sizes of IC's. I does not show what happens with the piping kit that comes with certain IC's. The piping kit makes a huge difference to helping the IC work efficiently. For example, the nizpro IC and Piping kit would have u huge advantage over some of the other IC's even though it has a lower cubic cm figure simply because it fixes more than just one of the three issues with the current cooling method. The three issues are 1, the intercooler, 2, the pipe length and 3, the pipe sizes in certain areas. Particulary the hat on top of the engine where the pipes cross over. Enjoy. XR6T Std 14.5"L x 7"H x 2"D 368mmL x 178mmH x 51mmD = 33407.04cm3 F6 Std estimate based on being 50% bigger than the XR6T = 50110.56cm3 Rajab Racing 16"L x 12"H x 3"D 406mmL x 305mmH x 76mmD = 94,110.8cm3 APS 508mmL x 351mmH x 89mmD = 158,694.12cm3 Monza 450mmL x 300mmH x 76mmD = 102,600cm3 AVO 18"L x 14"H x 3.5"D 457mmL x 356mmH x 89mmD = 144,795.88cm3 Nizpro Intercooler is roughly 84,500cm3 This figure is based on the nizpro IC being 72% bigger than the Std F6 IC and 248% bigger than the XR6T IC. ← Can anyone provide similar specs as above on the wog cooler which I am interested in? Isn't the mark of a good IC to have a positive charge effect which results in increasing boost and not negative charge which means a loss of boost. I'd like to see this info on the above ICs if at all possible in order to make an informed decision on an IC upgrade. Anyone??? Regards, Arthur

I dont agree. The best way is through the rubber grommet above the right kick panel and inside the right guard coming out near the headlight. This way no holes in firewall. ← Do you have any photos of the grommet. I dont like the idea of drilling holes, Thanx ← No photos, sorry! All I can say is it will all become apparent what needs to be done when the plastic cover on the underside of the drivers' side guard is removed. Looking back towards the front door, there will be a wiring loom going into the cabin, in the kick panel location, via a large rubber grommet. You will have enough room on the side of the grommet to make a hole and pass your amp wire through. With the plastic cover still removed, secure the wire along the inside of the guard up to the hole inside the engine bay near the battery and right headlight. Regards, Arthur

I dont agree. The best way is through the rubber grommet above the right kick panel and inside the right guard coming out near the headlight. This way no holes in firewall.

Barring any unforeseens, I'll be there.

the gearknob just unscrews anticlockwise. the boot unclips with the surround cover of the console after you remove the knob by pulling upwards.

Why not? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yeah, why not? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No reason why you cant jetute. I thought about it a while back and started practicing. The hurdle I had to get over was to train myself not to lift off the gas pedal at all when I clutch in. I flat change now whenever I want with no probs. Im pretty sure that Ive got it down so Im not bouncing off the rev limit also. Now to practice this on the strip. Back on topic: I dont think that flat changing will get you into 11's without huge power. Regards, Arthur

Farking Yuppie <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Me. Yuppie??? Im not the one with a phoon and 40rwkw advantage Jules

So how many kw's did the VL have the other Friday night Arthur <{POST_SNAPBACK}> that's obvious JB - no where near enough

Yes of course. Setup and weight need to be the same otherwise power variation cannot be measured as it isnt the only variable. Arthur

Was told by an expert that the difference of a car length down the quarter means that the winning car has 37rwkw (50rwhp) on the other. And that's of course from a standing start. So if this is right, what does it say about those of us who race one another, side by side from about 80kph to about 180kph on private roads. I for one wouldve expected that a credible win was at least a car length but given the above revelation, if true, a doors' length win is a more realistic expectation equating to a round about 20+ rwkw advantage. Also, if true, the upside of this info is a car length win over a standing quarter with less than a 37rwkw power advantage means a superior driving technique rather than car ability. Certainly some food for thought if true. Can anyone confirm this? Regards, Arthur

On a couple of occasions now, when doing quick 2nd to 3rd gear shifts, I find out when I release the clutch that Im in neutral. This has happened about 4 times now and a few forum members, who happen to be behind, have told me that my reverse lights come on. Now Im sure that I have the shifter all the way up the gate in 3rd coz when this happens, I shift straight down and am in 4th. And before those of you (like Marcus) pick up on the reverse lights coming on and think that Ive gone from 2nd past 3rd, past 5th, then against the lockout solenoid into reverse then dont bother as this is not what happened. Has this happened to anyone else? Any experts shed some light on what's happening? Regards, Arthur

Looks like its either 65 or 100. Im happy with either. The difference is only 35. pfffft.

that's exactly what happens. Phew. Im not alone.

Hi guys. When I logon to the forum, I select 'View new posts'. Occasionally, when I do so, it says that there are no new posts. This is after it shows that I have a number of pages of new posts when I logon. Whatever I do, I cant seem to get to these new posts as the forum treats them as already being read. This seems to be happening more often than previous. Is this happening to anyone else? Has anyone worked out how to retrieve these new posts now lost? Regards, Arthur

Gee Marcus. Are there no GTs in Vic that you have to wait til Jeff gets down there? I understand your excitement as I too was the same before my 1st run with Jeff. But now, after chopping him 20 to 30 times, its a bit Regards, Arthur

Yeah, yeah, laugh it up Craig. Note to self; no depth charges after a sh!tload of beer, bourbon and sambucca. I guess I'll have to pace myself. Then again, I'll be out to beat that 12.9. I think I can do it as long as I stay out of reverse. I cant wait. Regards, Arthur

Im in. Gotta beat that 12.9 so I gotta start practicing my takeoffs. Arthur

Dont forget to add 12% to the score after the 1.34 kw to hp conversion as the dynos in the US read 12 to 15% more than the aussie dynos. Dont know the scientific explanation but Im 100% sure of this. Max

Well then we'll have to turn it around this time by going. Im in. Max

At least Im not the only one putting it in reverse. And I was aiming for a quick 2 to 3 change. Max

Definitely the grey for the afr pickup.

Thought I'd check the manifold and turbo bolts for tightness as per recent discussions. I removed the pipes to the turbo and from the IC as is needed to get to these offending nuts and bolts and what do I see but the fan blades on the turbo chipped and bent. WTF? Ive never ever ran the car or even idled the car for that matter without an air filter. Its not making any unusual spooling noises at idle so Im guessing its not as severe as it looks though Ive since heard that the turbos spin at over 50,000 rpm so imbalance will cause premature failures. Has anyone had the same? Can I just remove the visible nut and replace the fan or is it more complicated than that? Any advise please? Regards, Max

Mine was the rattler left in the car park. Infact its still there. Found out today from Jon that the rattle was from the flywheel bolts coming loose. Although we caught it early, its managed to oval-shape the bolt holes so another flywheel is being sourced. Anyone in the Newcastle area happen to have one lying around that can help? Regards, Arthur

Jeezus. How about blanking the numberplates on those photos first before posting. Unless, of course, you have permission from everyone in them.

Hi guys (& girls). I need some help from the audiophiles. I've got JL Audio 6.5" components to be fitted in the front doors. My installer tried to fit them but got as far as the template and reckons that the basket in the door needs to be heavily modified to fit. He recommended that I get 5 x 7's instead that'll fit right in. I have 5 x 7's JL Audios in the rear parcel shelf but thought that the 6.5" will give me a better sound in the front. Not to mention that I tried to swap em over for the 5 x 7's but JB Hifi said NO. So can anyone assist me with getting these 6.5" in the doors please? Also, can I do it myself or do I get an installer? Im in the Sutherland area of Sydney if anyone can recommend and installer. Regards, Arthur