Max Power

Spraying the intercooler manually before a run makes sense. With the luxury pack, Ive got 2 t/c buttons; one on the dash to the left of the steering above the fog lights and one on the bottom left of the ICC therefore I can convert the dash one to be a manual water sprayer. I think having a thermo fan on the intercooler would negate any improvements by hindering air flow and power drain when its on. A 4psi pressure switch might work but Im no expert so it might be effective after its needed like someone else has said. How about a temp switch on the ic outlet side to turn on the sprayers? Dont know the method but you need some mechanism in place to automagically turn on the ic sprayers during a power run especially with a manual. Max

Here you go : http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...=11528&hl=water

So I need to get the SL fronts and SSL rears with the comfort setting and I need to cut the rear bump stops at the 1st notch. Is this right? Do I need to roll the wheel arch to fit the 275/30/19 rears? Who other than Wholesale Suspensions in Penrith supplies and fits in Sydney (south) or can supply only? Can I install myself or can someone help me for beers? Max

This Hobbs pressure switch looks to be what Im after. Where do you get it and the other washer pump from? Can you override it if you want to give your IC a quick squirt? Is it switchable so its only on as required? Max

Hi guys. Instead of upgrading the intercooler and risking my drivetrain warranty, I thought I might try doing the water spray mod instead. So do I do the Geea water spray mod with a pressure switch or get a water spray kit like http://www.autospeed.com/shop/category_705/browse.html or something else? As Im located in Sydney, where from and how much? Regards, Max

When I had the clubsport, the audio gurus on the ls1 forum posted info on how to tap onto the pcb before the built-in amp in the headunit and run rca plugs. There was no noise compared to the line level convertors used before. What say you gurus about doing something similar with the BA headunit? Max

Here you go pepe http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...cmd=si&img=2579 GRRRRRR! These half naked shots of david hasselhoff everywhere are getting very annoying. Surely the joke is over now. I thought this was a xr6t car enthusiast info sharing forum. The gay forum IS NOT HERE!!! Surely this takes up unnecessary space. Mods please intervene. Max

I got mine from Angel Signs for $190 supplied and fitted and was very happy with the result. Dont remember the guy's name but he's located in the Fairfield district and adds stripes to the showroom cars for the local dealer. The number is 0418284701. Max

I remember going to the motor show last year and noticed a car stand using Mr. Sheen to polish up cars. I kept an eye open after that and noticed another car stand using Mr. Sheen and a few bike stands. After seeing this, I started using it on my Ducati fairing with great results but I dont know if I should use it on the car. Is Mr. Sheen a top class car polisher who's secret is very tightly kept or a quick fix at motor shows? Regards, Max

I know Im gonna get flamed but I think that the Liberty scoop might be a nice addition to the T and an alternative to the xr8 bonnet. So how about it for the photoshop experts - any chance I can see it on a black T?

I need some help removing the centre console. I wanted to remove the console to add some stereo upgrade stuff. I removed every bolt and screw I could see (even the clips in the bin under the carpet) and I couldnt get it to come out. It felt like it was gonna fall apart but something was holding it down. The only thing I did manage to get off were the ducts for the rear vents where they attach under he dash and now I cant get them back on completely again. So is it the handbrake that I have to do something with before the console comes out? Something else? Regards, Max

I did see a previous reply on using the tweeters as an input signal but thought that the head unit may have already removed the low and mid frequencies to these. I ran this past the car audio guy at JB and, although he couldn't be sure, agreed with my theory. Install updates: After posting my previous reply, I realised that the equalizer Im installing, outputs to the rears as well as the fronts and sub. This means that I can use the rear speakers as an input signal to the equalizer. Even though Im not amping the rear speakers (for now at least), I'll be able to control frequency adjustments via the equalizer. Sourcing input signal: I traced the rear speaker wires from the parcel shelf and they both (left and right) go down the passenger side towards the front under the sill cover. Theres not much room to splice into these while in the sill. The best place I found was behind the passenger kick panel. Remove the front passenger top sill cover and passenger seat rail cover. Pull up the rubber seal at the base of the A pillar and unclip the kick panel. Expose the wiring loom by pushing the kick panel carefully across towards the centre console. Unplug the great big orange plug and manouvre around to locate and splice into the appropriate wires which are; left rear = pink/green stripe (+) and pink/black stripe (-) right rear = blue/red stripe (+) and blue/black stripe (-) As my equalizer is currently wedged between the passenger seat and console, I routed these input signal wires down under the sill cover and turned them in under the passenger seat. It worked out well that the power cable and input signal wires are on opposite sides of the car and thus electronic interference will be at a minimal. I also ran my rca cables from the equalizer to the amp and rear speakers down under the passenger side sill cover into the boot space. that's it for now. All that's left is the speaker install, speaker wires and amp install. I'll keep you posted as I go. Regards, Max footnote : My car has the luxury pack. While do all this today, I noticed what looked like footwell lights on either sides minus the globes. I stuck a couple of 3W wedge globes and, hey presto, footwell lights. I'll be stuffed why Ford couldn't install 2 globes in there when everything else is there. I wouldnt be surprised if its the next release upgrade LOL.

After procrastinating for a while, Ive finally started. Before I bore everyone, some questions; Who can tell me the wire codes for the left and right FRONT channels of the premium sound? How do you remove the centre console? Progress report; Im now also installing an old Kenwood EQ Ive had sitting in the cupboard. This will give me frequency and sub controls up front while driving. It doesnt exactly fit cleanly depthwise in the console under the power socket so Ive wedged it for now between the passenger seat and console. I need some time and maybe some ideas about a permanent location e.g console bin, glove box, etc. I was going to use the rear speaker wires as source for the EQ but, as the amp will be powering the fronts and sub, I was going to leave the rears as fill and upgrade these speakers to Pioneer 5 x 7's. Hence the need now to get a source signal from the fronts preferably near the ICC plug where the EQ is close to. From the EQ, I wanted the RCA's to go under the centre console rearwards under the carpet to the amp in the boot. Unfortunately, I removed every screw in the console and still couldnt get it to come out. Can anyone help? Is there something tricky I need to do with the handbrake? Power cable install: I ran 8 gauge power cable to the boot for the amp install. I did this by routing cable inside driver's guard beside the battery. I had to remove the guard cover around the wheel. I made a hole in the grommet housing the wiring loom coming out of the cabin near the fuse box. I pushed about a metre in then went inside car and found the cable. I ran this down the driver's side under the sill. You'll need to remove the front and rear driver's seat rail covers to gain access. I removed the sill covers and b pillar covers, breaking 2 plastic hooks behind the b pillar covers along the way. When I was at the driver's seatbelt bolt, I found that I didn't have the star socket to remove it so I had to go under anyway realising that the 8 gauge can be squeazed under the sill panel all the way. The cable is then pushed behind the corner of the seat and under the backrest into the boot space. Remote amp trigger: I routed this the same as the power cable though, at the dash, I turned it in towards the centre, over the steering column (drop the steering column at the adjuster) then in behind the centre console tapping into the power socket for the accessories feed. To get access to the rear of the power socket, you'll need to pull up on the shifter surround, then remove the 2 console trims which are on either side that lead up to the upper dash beside the ICC. Then you can remove the power socket tray by removing the screws on either side and pulling out. Sub-box: I was about to make one but then came across a Qmax 34lt sealed box for a 12" at JB hifi for $119 (got it for $100). It ended up fitting quite snuggly and allows the amp to fit beside it. that's it for now. Stay tuned. Regards, Max

I was thinking about putting a pod filter in the standard airbox to replace the panel filter. The filters will be k&n or bmc. Ive been told that pod is better flowing than panel but I dont know if this applies to the T airbox. Im predicting its gonna take some effort to mate it up to the pipe in the lid and angle it correctly so it fits in the base. And yes, Im planning to add a 2nd CAI hose under the headlight. So what does everyone reckon? Is it worth the effort? My other idea is a stealth pod filter setup where a hole is cut through the bottom of the airbox and the ajoining sheetmetal and a pod filter (ala Geea style) is added. The airbox itself will house only a connecting pipe from the airbox lid down to the pod. I know the washer bottle is in the way but there still should be enough room with a bit of effort. What do you think of this one? Regards, Max

SL fronts and SSL rear King Springs it is. All I need now is a recommended supplier, installer or both in Sydney. Can anyone help here please??? Regards, Max

Is the Walbro 255LPH intank pump a noisy bugger? I heard that some aftermarket pumps are irritatingly noisy and just wanted to know if the Walbro is one of em before I get it. Regards, Max

Me too, and possible have the back of the buldge cut away for venting. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I need to edit this post! This is my idea, and don't want anyone else to have it!! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sorry to do this to you mate but Ive already thought of it and I probably wasnt the 1st; http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...ndpost&p=209664

O.K. It would seem from a few members that putting 19's on will increase ride height and that might be the case for mine too as I didnt measure to compare the 17's. At the moment though, the front is 360mm and the rear is 370mm from arch to centre cap. Can anyone else confirm that the lowered height should be 345mm? Does anyone else have 375/30/19s on the rear and, when lowered, will the tyre rub the wheel arch as it kinda looks awfully close? Regards, Max

The 19's havent raised it at all from the 17's. Ive got 245/35 on the front and 275/30 on the rear. IMO the bigger wheel and smaller tyre accentuates the height of the wheel arch which therefore needs to drop a bit. Max

Got some 19s today and it looks like it can do with a bit of lowering. I did a search and reading through all the results found that SL fronts and SSL rear King springs is what members are doing. As Ive got a 'tricky' driveway, I was hoping that someone with this combo can provide centre cap to wheel arch measurements for the front and rear so I can see if I can go the same heights and avoid scraping. Anyone? How about alternatives to the King springs? Recommended places to supply and fit in Sydney? Regards, Max

Ooops. My bad. I should of mentioned that I only wanted comments that add value to this thread and help me (and anyone else with the same thoughts) source the required bits. Regards, Max

After seeing the inside of an F6, I couldn't help but notice how wrong the dash colours of the XR6T are. Why doesn't the XR6T have the same alloy coloured ICC, gearshift surround and cup holder as the F6 to match with the door openers, steering wheel trim and dash trim strips across the driver and passenger sides? I'd like to get these but been told that the ICC is a complete unit and you cannot just get the alloy facia. I cant see how this is so as the background globes should be replaceable when they fail by removal of the facia. Im seeking confirmation about the ICC issue from someone in the know. Im also requesting assistance sourcing these parts? Do I need to order from FPV? Regards, Max

I haven't received mine either and I requested it at least 2 times. Ive had the car now well over 2 months.

I was told by one of the guys at Tempe Tyres when inquiring about the 8.5" front & 9.5" rear 19" fusions that they wont fit around brembo calipers. I dont have brembos but was thinking of getting ap racing or brembos soon. Its something to think about if youre considering brembos or the likes down the track. Then again, I know that Jeff (xr6ikness) has Alcons behind his fusions so that info from Tempe is not for all aftermarket brake options.

You should of tried the search facility as there are many threads on this. A lot of people including myself have been extremely happy with a tinter named Bob who lives at Picnic Point. You wont go wrong giving him a call on 0411333069.