Anchor

Yeah I might invest in an under battery pipe. The cooler can't be too bad. Mate with an F6, standard intake pipework and cooler and a hurricane exhaust and normal fuel mods is making 440rwhp on 12psi.

Got a 2010 Dash manual with tech pack for 35,500.

You can get a 10 for that money..

I don't think you got 18.5k lol. There's a 99% chance they over-allowanced(took money out of new car and put in on trade. At least you knew what you wanted when you walked in though.

My point exactly. Most people take it as gospel. Hell I even get the odd wanker bring a print-out of his car from redbook..

Already gutted. But the owner before me cut out the rear muffler, not the middle... Would this have any effect? Think I'm needing the F6 snorkel as well..

Redbook is bullsh*t. I love it when someone comes in quoting redbook. If they tell you its worth so much, go sell it to them...... (sarcasm). Just remember at the end of the day, everyone has to pay someone.. If you want a fair idea, have a look at what they are selling for, not what people are asking for them. And then take off around 5k. that's around the trade in price you'll get. A dealer isn't going to give you what its worth on the private market or what he's going to sell it for. They make money from buying cars and selling them remember..

Also can't wait to see Brads HI PSI after a proper tune :D 440rwhp? feathering the throttle to keep it at 15psi and 10.0 afr's the whole run.

The R33 went 520rwhp. Was a vz maloo 408ci with a gentt kit still using the alloy block... Went 477rwhp @ 3000rpm before the auto told the computer the converter wasn't locking up and it wouldn't rev any higher.. I went 399.9 haha... Pretty good considering we took about 3psi of boost out and 2deg of timing since making 404 on friday.

Can be done, dads is 4sp auto with full xforce 4" dump system. Makes 331rwkw on 14psi fading down to 12. Standard actuator.

May as well post up dads ute. Same as mine except his is the 4sp slushbox. No converter either. Doesn't slip yet... 05 BA mk2 ute. 110,000km. 4sp auto. 444rwhp/331rwkw @ 13psi. Won't hold more. Unknown cooler Under battery pipe F6 intake SS inductions over rad intake Xforce 4" dump into 3.5" single Performance valvesprings 60lb injectors Bosch 044 pump NGK plugs gapped down Xcal 3 This one has supprised us a bit. Played with a few things the other day on the dyno and found another 30rwhp.. Also bettered the fuel economy. Dad done all this for fuel economy... Hardly drives it like its supposed to be driven. Will add sheet when I find where he put it the other day. Both utes tuned @ prodyno in rockhampton. Never had any troubles.

Just cracked into the 300's today. Changing thermostat tomorrow and having another shot. 301rwkw/404rwhp. BA mk2. Ute. 80,000km. 6sp Man. Custom NPC clutch NGK plugs gapped to .7 SS Inductions over rad intake Standard zorst with rear muffler removed Bosch 42lb injectors Bosch 044 pump F6 cooler Performance Valvesprings Xcal 3 I'll get a sheet up soon. Spiked to 13psi and trails down to 10. Won't hold boost. Either actuator or restrictive exhaust. Made full power on 10psi. Air fuels around the 11.5. Wanted it fat and safe. This is the daily, not the project. Not worried about power level. Tuned @ prodyno in rockhampton, cq. Never had any issues. Great blokes!

Running richer on idle is also fail. I put a bottle of nulon pro strength in to stop the pinging till I get it tuned and now it stalls at traffic lights haha. Kinda gay.. When you getting it tuned again?

Takin the ute back to dynamics sometime next week. Need to add injectors and a fuel pump. Might try make 300rwkw without springs... Lol I also lowered the ass end another inch.. Get lloooooowww

Nah mine is down the back without a motor. Made 340rwhp on a sohc 4g63 on 16psi and it detonated down at powercruise. Few contributing factors. Hoping for 500rwhp on the new setup. Cruise is 1:30pm saturday (tomorrow) leaving from baskins northside carpark.

Cruise on this sat still, have gotten a heap of interest. Should be good fun:D I hate buying cars, cause I keep wanting to modify them. Thinking either rear swaybar for the ute - $200 fitted and rear lowered 2" - $100.. Or, fuel pump and injectors - $500 and take it to zane to make around the 400rwhp mark without valvesprings.... Iunno. HI PSI - did you see my beige sigma in the corner when you were at prodyno haha??

Regarding the F6 that let go on the dyno. Was a yellow one owned by a local miner. Made up in the 480 region and the block twisted. Piston bit in and cracked inbetween the valve reliefs. It's now receiving an Atomic 998 motor... Also, any of you guys keen for a cruise in rocky this weekend? Been organising it on Boostcruising for a while. Meet @ baskins north side at around 1:30pm on saturday. Cruise down to the beach and then accross to emu park. Stopping @ bell park for foods etc. Maybe an archer run when we get back into town. Will be a few hot cars going. 420hp F6, 450hp turbo ls1 vt calais, 550hp procharged monaro etc etc.

Heh, found it.. Cat is fine, although it prevents flamage.... Was boost gauge line, T pieced behind/under the manifold with the fuel pressure reg. T piece had split from heat. I couldn't see it. Local tuner fixed it for me on his lunch break <3

I thought about that, but wouldn't it affect drivability if something like that was wrong? It idles fine and drives fine. No weird noises etc.. Just doesn't go as fast or make anything over 5psi.

Eh, blocked off the bov pipe and the vac line. Took it for a drive, still gay. Only makes 4-5psi and the guage is shakey as hell. Feels slow too.

Reloaded tune and checked all vac and boost lines and ic piping. All good. BOV was a little loose.. It's a turbosmart 38mm item on the turbosmart intake pipe. Instead of just tightening the grub screws I pulled it off and the o-ring doesn't come out past the inside metal of the bov. That could be it right? Gunna throw on another 38mm bov I have here with a good o-ring and see how it goes.

If it helps, car is only running a capa X3 and a sh*tty front mount with the middle muffler cut out. 365rwhp on 9psi. Nothing extreme as its the daily driver. Was on dyno only last week.

Right, normally I'd just check for boost leaks etc.. But this one is weird. Was sliding around the other night, hit limmiter a few times etc etc. Then driving normally on the highway at 90km/hr I noticed the boost guage wasn't moving. Foot on clutch, didn't even go into vac. Foot down, wouldn't boost, just fluttered back through turbo and acted like a NA 6.. So I pulled up, put the clutch in, sat there for a minute and then took off again. Everything seemed to be back to normal except for it now only boosts to around 6psi instead of spiking to 12 and tapering back to 9. Boost guage was really shaky as well. Yesterday at work we replaced the wastegate solenoid and checked the cat to see if it was blocked. This didn't help. Can't find any boost leaks etc. Kinda lost at this one.. Any tips or sh*t I can try will be appreciated :D Jeri

Manager of MTQ in Rockhampton just happened to walk into work today so I asked him about this. They recommend changing it at least every 20,000km.. And its there for a reason, removing it won't give the turbo any more life as they get enough oil as it is.. Mine is in the workshop now being changed, just going with another ford filter as its extremely cheap for me (employee). MTQ also do a braided line kit with remote filter for around $180ish.. This is in Rockhampton, QLD.

May as well throw mine up here. Running 18x9.5's Front and Rear. 235's stretched over the front so I clear the guards and 265's on the rear. Going to go lower in the back when the car gets resprayed and guards rolled. I've got the offsets written down at work.. Will add them tomorrow. Have about 5mm clearance on the front inside, plenty on the rear, about 40mm inside. 0mm outside, scrubs when I go over bumps front and back. Can just get a finger inbetween tyre and guard on front :D Hubcentric spacers aren't on the back in this photo. They are 15mm front and back from memory...