Chris xr6

Buy new tube that is not the kinda thing you should be a tightarse about, also mechnical gauges are illegal... mkay!

No matter how well your barkes can absorb heat and cycle that enery through, your tyres are only able to maintain that transfer of energy at their maximum friction coeffecient, tyres are the limiting factor not brakes!

I will highly doubt that our stock brakes would fade from a single stop between 100-40 that is laughable!

Larger brakes will give you better control and ability to modulate the brake force applied, also much better fade resistance, but the tyres will always dictate how quickly you can pull up and generally unless a standard system is defective you shouldn't notice any decrease in stopping distance by going to the sexy gear.

You could be onto something there, if the intake isnt correctly connected to the turbo you will get increase induction noise and the BOV will be louder cos it dumps into this pipe also... ← and it will run lean under WOT..... ping pong ← Seeing as the computer senses load using the tps and a map (manifold absolute pressure)sensor I highly doubt an air leak pre manifold will cause the engine to run lean.....

Ingall you mean!

I dont buy that, I stuck mine down about two and a half years ago, still perfect! Do the monkeys at Ford install yours?

You guys have been cleaning the sill panels properly before sticking the scuff plates on? metho works well

I have stepped on one this big at the Daly river I vote no for chop!

I'll let mal or ben come along and explain that, they actually know what there talking about unlike me ← I have just purchased a new clutch and flywheel from Mal for my NA, if Forf dont cover you Mal is the best option!

What do you push it? I toasted my rears at around twelve thousand, non turbo no burnouts

I have just put a Mal Wood clutch in my car albeit NA xr6 and it is great lighter than stock with much more positive feel and engagement!

I wasn't directing my comment at anyone!

Iff you leave the swirl pot size at 2 Litres I would suggest a higher volume pump to feed the swirl pot on 400+ rwkw applications. An easier way to avoid the cost of an extra pump is to build a larger swirl pot. I suggest 3 litres as a minimum if you are retaining the standard in tank pump. Regards Spiko ← Thanks for the info mate - will heed the advice. 3 litres it is. ← OK guys, I don't get it - I have looked through the thread attached and seen the swirl pot that you've fitted. Whilst it looks like a premo job, it's just another fuel tank at the back of the car.... I thought the job of a swirl tank was to have an amount of fuel (say 3 litres) always handy to the injectors and with enough capacity so they can't run dry. A 3 litre aluminium tank at the back of the car seems to me a way around having to engineer the normal fuel tank and supply lines properly and hence deliver the goods. Wouldn't the best way of running a swirl pot be to have it mounted on the chassis rail near the firewall, real close to where the injector rail is? That way it doesn't need to travel up and down the length of the car..... The standard tank and higher capacity pump can feed the swirl pot, then that uses a motorsport pump to feed the injector rail.... I'm just thinking out loud here guys, of course Spiko and Rapid and others have done this in the real world - I'll be guided by your experience. ← A swirl pot wont supply more fuel! The addition of a second fuel pump will enable the system to flow a higher volume of fuel as the first pump supplies volume and the second supplies pressure. getting back to it the swirl pot is there for one reason and one only! To prevent the fuel pickup from running out of fuel due to high G forces from either accelleration or high cornering forces pushing fuel to the back front or sides away from your fuel pickup. This is why they are normally taller than wider. If you guys are having fuel supply issues on the dyno at higher revs the only reason a swirl pot will help you is because you are adding a second fuel pump giving you a higher flow rate, oh and if you guys are running a swirl pot in line using the original, walbro etc intank only you are band-aiding your problem

This may be because of the new compound which has suposedly better wet weather grip, possibly they are softer with the added silica?

That is far too sexy a piece of engineering to hide in a bellhousing!

Nizpro when I wanted to buy the sexy staino ones in that photo! The only concern I now have with those and the advance headers, is the placement of the O2 sensor which only meters three cylinders not all six. Ah I found the e-mail from nizpro Hi Chris We no longer make custom extractors, we now use Genie.Hope this help your search Kindest Regards, Simon Gishus Nizpro Turbocharging (03) 9761- 1522 www.nizpro.com.au

Repco etc. can supply these they are branded formula ferodo and the front pad number is DB1473 I paid $145 from a local retailer

I have 2000s fitted to me car with dba rotors and they are very street friendly but still stop a lot better than the standard setup

Those Nizpro extractors are not available I was informed that they now use and fit Genie extracors with their cobra kits any one have a pic of the Genie's?

The difference between dunlop and michelin is enourmous! I am currently running pp2's on the front and sp3000s on the rear and it is amazing how noisy the back is now compared to my earily quiet front! and the grip is definately there!

The TheMeshman260 is also a forum member

Jennifer Hawkins Lara Bingle Keira Knightley

These are pad prices!

Barry Smith Motorsport in Canberra will know!