FOONIN

LOL sounds exactly like the problem ive got.... try both of the above posts, they are the most common ways to try and fix it try this as well: once you get home from work or a drive etc turn it off and alarm it straight away....wait 15minute for the battery saver mode to kick in and whamo the alarm should go off...if it doesnt it could be something else

yup fitted diode in boot light and a few other electrical components to the doors....damn thing still keep going off though :( gotta be something else to do with the battery saver mode

how come your selling bro?? all you need is that plus an intercooler?? you should probably put on there that u will need a tune LOL

Id still upgrade if I was you , it never happened on my old xr6t BA Ill post an update next monday as its going back then Ive always been told that the security systems in falcons are really good, never heard of one being stolen. The upgrade alarms are basically just a slight upgrade but mostly a siren

just an update found problem of false alarming - it somehow keeps tripping when the alarm when the battery saver mode starts (15min after ignition turned off) still trying to find where its tripping from though :D autosparky is pulling his hair out trying to find the problem

yeah mate all good...plus same here..I havent had the best run with hutchies if only they both lowered their prices :D

plus you get discounts on mothers products and avon city etc etc not that I use a dealer :D

cruises and events recently had an over night trip to Tekapo....was an awesome drive there..lots of v8 crackle and turbo spool going through mackenzie country...then a good feed + drinks then went up to do a star gazing tour of the observatory.... Also we are soon to have the new BBQ made from the rear tray of a xr6 ute :D but mostly its the events and cruises topped off with the atmosphere, everyone gets along with everyone. The annual fee does kinda suck though but Im sure you would be able to come along and see if your into it

well a BOV is really easy to install, but you can order straight from Go Fast bits They also come with instructions on how to fit etc. The only "hard" thing I found when installing mine was the lack of room at rear of engine bay. Its a little bit of a squeeze but if you follow instructions its all good. however if your after a tuner to do the work I am not sure for down south....some people use Harmans in CHCH but if you want it done once and done right take it to Torque Performance in Auckland

but back to forum topic are there any members in CHCH or close to CHCH here??? Not sure if allowed to advertise another club/forum but The Tickford and FPV Club - South Island chapter would love to have a few more fresh faces. Club isnt as popular down south as up north but I seen a few non-member cars about round CHCH. Luckily the quakes havent moved too many :D xr6t's and N/A falcons are allowed to join too. The Tickford and FPV club page *Admin - can delete if advertising of this sort is not allowed.

If you dont want to spend ALOT then I would remove factory BOV and replace with an aftermarket one like this : Link I use to own the previous model to this BOV and these are IMO really good. Good thing about this BOV is that you can adjust how tight the spring is and how much you vent out to atmosphere. You can get somewhat of a flutter out of it if you adjust the spring tighter (done by turning the head of the BOV up). I set the spring up on half way so it only fluttered down low, never when revs were up high. But if you want serious flutter go for this kit..I bought a similar one : Link If your looking at this option talk to Robin @ Torque Performance in Auckland, hes Jesus when it comes to these cars. I only hear the BOV when I really put my foot up it otherwise I just hear alot of turbo spool and flutter. But if I was you and Im pretty sure you dont want to spend as much as that process west kit I would: *Buy aftermarket BOV *Change filter to K&N or other recommended filter for what your after. *possibly put a 3" exhaust on it (you dont need a tune for 3") BUT whatever you do be careful as in most cool mods do need a tune - big intercooler, short air intake, +3.5" exhaust etc etc

hell yes LOL I have my intercepter gauge set up in the tissue tray yet I still have alot of cable tied up under dash..

really? loI guess the toe bolts and diff bushes go hand in hand...if you do one you will most likely do the other at same time...saving 6 hours costly labour......but cutting through the wheel well in boot sounds a bit extreme lol

Ya I did see that, however going to replace bushes anyway, cars almost at 140,000km and has been modified so probably best to change'em

excellent write up, took mine off today with ease (apart from damn toe ball, but got around that ) .....talk about stones and dust behind bumper...geez was like a falcon dump truck :D

exhaust is stainless nah I mean if I turn it off then go out soon after the noise will still be there...however if I leave it over night chances are it wont make a noise when I use it the next day... It cant be that harmful to the car..it hasnt broken down yet :D touch wood one thing Ive noticed which doesnt have anything to do with the noise is that on hot days when engine is really hot there is a vibration noise I can feel and hear coming from engine bay...best way to describe is a small computer like fan going nuts...anyway different issue, lets not change subject lol

aha found out problem - it was a stripped bolt..... now got to look foward to 2 x nz$85 bolts plus 6 hours to remove diff PLUS 3 replacement diff bushes (since the diff is out may as well) someone needs to tell ford they have a sh!t toe bolt design :D hehe

Ahh sorry forgot to mention most important peice of information - thing to remember is yes it does only happen when engine is warm BUT its not every single time the engine is warm. Its a random draw whether it makes the noise or not. But when it does make the noise it wont stop until engine is cold. I think that would cross exhaust leak out Ill check the bolts but unless one is loss I wouldnt think it would be that?? Unplug boost solinoid? is that safe to drive with it off? lol

right picture time, just took these now...my bad if this shows different to what I said earlier - not up with suspension talk

car has been lowerd on adjustable suspension lowest point on car roughly sits 90mm up I had it lowered a couple of months ago previous it was standard height no wheel alignment has been done on it for awhile altho funny enough no changes had to be made to the camber...it lowered perfectly...either that or the guy doing the alignment got sh!t scared working during a magnitude 6.0 aftershock :D

Yeah he jacked it up and put turn tables under the wheels and lowered it back down, going to take it in to suspension shop once they reopen from xmas break Yeah it was kinda odd, I watched him get it positioned on the computer screen to exactly what it should be...then once he tighted the bolt you could see the graph on the computer slowly changing back to being inbetween good and bad. He said he couldnt tighten it was the nut was semi rounded off due to the previous guy trying to keep it locked in place as it seemed to be floating. I dont know if this would help but this is the readings for rears Left - Actual 1.5mm - Before: 6.1mm Spec Range 0.4mm - 1.7mm Right - Actual 0.3mm - Before: 5.4mm Spec Range 0.4mm - 1.7mm Cross Camber - Actual -0.35deg - Before -0.45deg Spec range -0.50deg 0.50deg Total Toe - Actual 1.8mm - Before 11.5mm Spec range 0.8mm 3.3mm Thrust angle - Actual 0.05deg - Before 0.03deg I doubt that will help but ill just wait till I see specialist

Yeah turbo definately getting oil - replaced feed line with an earls inline filter. Checked to see if oil making it all the way through and it is. Lifter? What is a that? sorry noob question Wouldnt an exhaust leak be heard all the time?? Ill see if I can try make a video recording of it

Ah sorry Ralph just saw you said it could be the bushes....do you know the process of replacing the bushes? as in does the diff need to still be pulled out

yes this is yet another question about engine noise....have been searching for a problem similar to mine but that's all I have really found - similar problems I am getting a ticking noise (sounds like a plastic tab flicking on a bike wheel - yes old school style) coming from the engine region.... It only happens when: engine is warm (not cold) It starts at 1psi and the sound becomes faster as it goes up to 10psi (which my current tune is on) I took my process west race intake off and made sure nothing was touching turbine etc all seem fine. I possibly thought it could be a bit of movement in the turbo shaft and turbine. Current mods to car: exhaust intake + intercooler + plenum injectors 12psi actuator actuator mod fuel pump tune

ah damn, anybody know of a way without taking the diff off? lol