Gee
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Everything posted by Gee
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I can only help you with the engine oil because I just changed my. In the ford service manual they said to use a 15W - 40W. The first number you should try and kept the same but if your car is modify you should try and increase the second one. There were a few oils to choose from I decided on the Nulon 15w - 50w full synthetic. If your car is stock you should stay with a 15W -40W.
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Were can I buy 20 litres of castrol Transmax z in the melbourne area.
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Your boost solenoid could be sticking. Or generic tune could be program with the wrong spring rate for the actuator.
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If you run a standard ford sizes (245??????), I petty should the ku36 are out of stock and there is no eta. And the only tyres that are 245 in Nitto are the NT 555R but they only come in a 17inch. If you can get the Nitto in a 245\40\18 let as know because I will buy a set to and compare them to the ku36's
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Standard boost is about 7 psi, I was running about 13 psi. I already had ECU work done before I installed to the new cat. I had problems with my car pining so I was hoped the hi flow cat would stop it but it didn't.
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The boost shouldn't go up because the factory boost controller should kept it at the correct level but when I ran my car up on a dyno and then I installed a high flow cat and then ran it up on the same dyno about 2 hours later with the same tune and got and extra 30 rwkw or a 10% increase in power with the same boost level.
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I have an air/fuel ratio gauge in my car. My does run slightly leaner about 0.5 afr under acceleration and on the cruise it about the same but as people have said the afr is only one part of a good safe tune.
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Make sure you get a new hose which goes from the outlet of the pump to the top of the fuel pump assembly. It's about twice as long as the sedan one.
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Does anyone know were I can buy a aftermarket sump gasket and filter for the ZF auto in the Melbourne area??
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If you want a better flowing exhaust that is quiet then just replace the cat but you will need a re tune.
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I think you may two different problems. The security code error is related to the ICC just type in the code and you car not starting or turning over may be a fuse blow check the two fuse boxes.
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I have dyno sheets from different machines. One has a correction factor using SAE J1349 and the other SAE J607. If I have a reading of 100rwkw using SAE J1349 what would it read using SAE J607. I know it's more but by how much.
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I just got my car re-tune by AVO and I am very help. The price was a bit cheaper than the other.
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The outlet size of the turbo is 2 inch,the inlet and outlet size of the stock cooler is 2.25 inch, the inlet and outlet size of the pipe that goes under the battery is 2.25 inch and the size of the intake size of the stock crossover is 2.25 inch. But because Ford used the big rubber piping more than likely a 2.25 t-bolt will not fit over it.
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It's the cat and stardard muffler that hold the car back. With the standard mufflers (possible high flow cat installed)the car is able to make over 300rwkw but because to exhaust is so restrictive more boost is need and the motor heat up to much reducing engine life, if you drive is hard for long periods (so they tell me). So changing the dump pipe will help but changing the cat will properly do the same thing. I was tolled it all about changing the mufflers. At the moment the exhaust is holding the car back. The car is making a little over 300 rwkw with the normal mods injectors, cooler, fuel pump etc, I already have a high flow cat installed but the mufflers are just to restrictive. The problem is this is my everyday car I drive it to work and take it on trips away so a need a factory sounding exhaust. Removing of the centre muffler makes the car to droney. I just don't want to waste my money and buy an exhaust and it is to loud and droney.
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I have a BF xr6t ute and I'm thinking of upgrading the exhaust but I'm after a high flowing exhaust that is as quiet on the cruise as the standard exhaust and is not droney. Does anyone know if an exhaust is made that is quiet and not droney.
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If you have lost power you my have a leak.
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This adjustment (see below)has fixed my pause on take off and I am wondering what I have adjusted? Can someone please tell me what I have adjusted, how to set it back to a factory setup and what affects this has on my car. This adjustment is found on the throttle body.
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Hi I had the same problem, I put brembo on my car and I had to change my rims. I live in tarneit (hoppers crossing) if you would to measure up the brembo or try to fit your rims I pm my number to you.
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Yes it just simply lifting off the complete plate
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If you cannot tighten the clamp enough use a s/s hose clamp and tighten with a ratchet. There maybe other reason why it's slipping off, it's your motor is twisting to much. With factory hot side piping it's made of rubber because it allows more movement. When you put after market hot side piping it's normally metal and it doesn't movement/flex. Try removing the clamp, that clamps the piping to the chassis or you can buy a silicon join with a humps to allows formovement/flex. When I change my hotside piping I allow for engine movement and I haven't had a probelm.
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How Do I Tell If My Car Is Tuned?
Gee replied to turbohead's topic in Engine Management & Fuel Systems
Yes you can tune it with a different capa flash box. All the capa box does is the first time the capa box is used it sucks up the original tune in you car no matter what tune is in there. For you car having a different tune than standard, a good tune should be able to take it for a drive and tell you straight away or I think suck is out with the sniper system and look at the tune. -
Go and speak to a good auto electrician he should be able to do something for a cheaper price
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Thanks for explaining. I wish I live closer to Frankston, I would like you to give me your opinion one the main tune the I'm running. And tune my a with a mod that I think not many people have tried on a xr6t Thanks again
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