Ricky N

As a general rule if it is an adjustable actuator. For its base setting screw the rod in so its half a hole past sliding on. Nip it off with the locking nut. Pull the rod out and slid it over the pin. If it is too hard to pull out use an air blower to start actuating the can and slide the rod over the pin. If this does not work check it is the right psi can. After that start checking for leaks, blocked exhaust, Blocked air filter and tune. Cheers, Ricky.

The following turbos are in horse power potential: HKS T51R KAI (850hp) Compressor: Garrett GT42. Inducer 70mm, Major 94mm, Compressor cover: HKS T51R. 4” inlet, 3” outlet. (Light weight with extended defuser area) Turbine: Old school TA turbine, Major 82mm Exducer 71.4mm Exhaust housing: Very nice light weight with V/band inlet and outlet. 1.00 a/r or 1.2 a/r Weight: Slightly less than a GT4202R. -------------------------------------------------------------------- Billet Turbochargers SB70-GTS (950hp) (This would be the fastest spooling turbo out of this listed.) (CNC Machined billet compressor wheel) Compressor: Billet-SB70. Inducer 70mm, Major 102mm, Compressor cover: Billet-GTSR Race cover. 4” inlet, 3” outlet. (Light weight with extended defuser area) Turbine: Billet-GTS. Inducer 81.3mm Exducer 75.2mm, 713C Inconel. (New style turbine) Exhaust housing: Open T04. .68 A/R, .81 A/R, .96 A/R. Divided T04. .70 A/R, .85 A/R, .95 A/R, 1.00 A/R, 1.06 A/R, 1.15 A/R, 1.19 A/R, 1.32 A/R. 1.52 A/R. Optional HKS or TiAL housings as well. Weight: 8.2kg with HKS housing or 8.6kg with Divided T04 housing. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- GT4202R (1000hp) Compressor: Garrett GT4202. Inducer 74mm, Major 102mm, Compressor cover: Big GT4202 cover .69 A/R, 4” inlet, 3” outlet. Turbine: Garrett GT42. Inducer 81.3mm Exducer 75.2mm, GMR. (New style turbine) Exhaust housing: 1.01 a/r, 1.15 a/r, 1.28 a/r, 1.44 a/r. Optional TiAL housings. Weight: 17.6kg ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Billet Turbochargers 76-GTS (1050hp) Compressor: Billet-76. Inducer 76mm, Major 102mm, Compressor cover: Billet-GTSR Race cover. 4” inlet, 3” outlet. (Light weight with extended defuser area) Turbine: Billet-GTS. Inducer 81.3mm Exducer 75.2mm, 713C Inconel. (New style turbine) Exhaust housing: Open T04. .68 A/R, .81 A/R, .96 A/R. Divided T04. .70 A/R, .85 A/R, .95 A/R, 1.00 A/R, 1.06 A/R, 1.15 A/R, 1.19 A/R, 1.32 A/R. 1.52 A/R. Optional HKS or TiAL housings as well. Weight: Lightest 8.2kg with HKS housing or heaviest 8.6kg with Divided T04 housing.

The BorgWarner VTG turbos on the 997 Porsche are tinny. Smaller than a DiscoPotato.

Preload on the actuator may not be set right.

Rebuilds can be had for $785.00 Worst case, replacment cores are around $1650.00 You could try MR Turbo on the Gold Coast.

I look left... Hmmm. I look right... Hmmm. Up, down and round and round.... Yep, they are still gay. It’s not really a new idea. I remember seeing STS in the US starting to do this back in 2003. Didn't think much of it back then and still don’t. I am a Turbo guy through and through. But in this circumstance if I had to choose an under bonnet super charger kit or rear mounted turbo kit. I would go with the super charger. The super charger kit is going to be cheaper and perform better than a rear mounted turbo.

Don't know about other places but when MR Turbo ports the wastegate it’s not just to make the hole bigger. If you get only your wastegate ported what happens is your standard flapper is retained and the hole is bored out to its maximum so it still seals, then the inside of the housing is ported and the angle the exhaust gasses come to the flap are changed / improved and polished. If you only go to the bigger 38'5mm flapper what happens is the standard flapper is removed. The exhaust housing is put in a mill. A new flapper seat is machined into the housing because the standard seat is not bigger enough for the big flap. The hole is bored out and the new 38.5mm flapper is installed. The hole is bored to suit the bigger flap but the housing is not ported. MR Turbo quote both of these things as separate. They also sell the 38.5mm flap valves by them self for other mechanics and exhaust shops to fit them. If you wanted to get it all done and installed you would have to give them the turbo and ask for: The Big wastegate flap, Porting and new wastegate actuator / can. Three separate things. What one person calls porting is not the same as the next guy. The pictures I have seen on this site have been of the hole been bored but not ported. They only work on turbos not cars so the turbo would have to be take off and given to them.

Rear mount turbos are as cool as this picture

Every body start sending emails: [email protected]

This is a night club in Surfers Paradise. Thought it was funny so had to take the pic.

Twin turbo’s do have their merits. 1) Space. Two 400hp turbos will have less girth than one 800hp turbo. (There is heaps of space in the Ford’s so not really an advantage in this instance) 2) Less volume for each exhaust pulse to pressurise and less heat loss so each turbo should spool faster. (A properly set up split pulse single turbo manifold and divided turbo housing has the same advantages) 3) Less chance of combustion chamber reversal. Because properly set up twin turbos do not have apposing cylinders firing together they are less likely to suffer from exhaust gas reversal into the combustion chamber. (A properly set up split pulse single turbo manifold and divided housing turbo has the same advantages) 4) You cannot get a single turbo big enough to support the power level you are after. (I don’t think there are too many people out there chasing 2500+hp) 5) Wank value. OMG! Check out my fully sick twin turbos. Unless building sequential or compounding twin turbo systems I believe if the space is available a single split pulse turbo system will work best in most cases. My above comments say “properly set up split pulse single turbo” because true split pulse systems have different requirements from the turbo choice and manifold design than a open merged collector manifold and open housing turbo. A true split pulse systems will keep all the exhaust gasses from both sides of the manifold separate. Usually by running two wastegates. One for each side of the manifold. I could go further into this but it would be getting a bit off topic from the twin turbo’s. If you are in the market for a split pulse manifold make sure you talk to someone with a bit of experience with these style of manifolds. An improperly set up split pulse system will have no advantage and can even be a restriction. Twin’s vs Single. I would still go single with an open merged collector manifold over the twin’s. I can’t see the twin’s having a noticeable advantage over a single on this style engine. Plus the extra cost.

This thread was just some friendly advice. Not a debate. If anyone takes the advice or chooses to ignore it, is at there discretion.

Sure we see turbos failing for other reasons as well but the most common are in the first post. Head droop from hot shut downs. The Phenolic cage failing. Carbon build up in the turbo and oil feed line. Warn bearings. I understand your scepticism. I sure you have probably come across others that have speculated on what some of the issues may be without ever actually having seen a turbo apart. Everything in the first post is from what we see inside turbos after they have failed. It would be very hard if not impossible to clean the factory oil feed line properly. Blowing air throw it, soaking it in a wash bay, soaking it in carbon clean is still not going to get rid of all the carbon and even if it somehow did. How could you check it? Good chance you would have loosened some of it up so now it will be getting pumped into the turbo. I think a new line is safer. That’s my opinion. You’re entitled to yours. Same goes for fitting a new turbo or rebuilt turbo. Better to start with a nice new oil feed line than risking destroying your new turbo. When the turbo shop pulls the turbo down and sees it full of crap they and Garrett are not going to cover it under warranty. Regards, Ricky.

Through work we usually see a few a week for repair.

Lots. And more and more of them as time goes on. Hence the thread.

It's not just the water cooling all parts of the turbo. A constant flow of oil is squirted onto the turbine shaft and bearing races when the car is running keeping them from overheating. The actual bearings them self do not need that much oil to operate correctly. Yes turbo timers will idle the car down for you. But they are illegal in most states.

20 to 30 seconds for light driving duties. 2 to 3 minutes for heavier traffic or if you have been constantly accelerating or on boost. 5 minutes plus if you have been giving it a good flogging

It’s a brass bearing cage. And yeah it’s more than double the price of the regular bearing pack. And the turbo will spool slower because the brass bearing cage is heaps heavier.

The BA/BF / GT35R turbo and FG T04S/GT35R turbo have a few reasons why they are failing. Most of which can be avoided. The biggest problem starts with the Ford sales person. The Ford salesman will tell the new buyer that the new turbos don’t need to be idled down. This is not true. The Ford salesman probably has no idea or will tell you anything to get you to buy the car. The turbo needs to be idled down after use for a few reasons. 1) When the turbo is hot shut down the cooling system for the turbo stops and the temperature of the turbo skyrockets. The residual oil left in the turbo and oil feed line cooks. It turns into carbon and starts to block the oil feed to the turbo. Over time it will completely block the oil feeding the turbo. The carbon is also wearing the bearings much faster. The oil also bakes onto the bearing races and balls. Further wearing them faster than they should and can cause harmonics leading to turbo failure. 2) The factory turbos have a Phenolic bearing cage. Phenolic is a compressed resin fibre. In laminas terms its plastic. When it is over temped is can melt and/or it goes brittle and fails causing the end of your turbo. 3) Unfortunately the GT35R suffers from head droop. On hot shut down the turbo is sitting there not spinning with a super hot shaft. Metal is at its softest when it is hot. So the turbine head droops from the weight. Once this happens the turbo is no longer balanced. When something spinning over 100000rpm is not balanced it usually stops sinning very quickly. The above three problems can all be easily be avoided by. Idling your car down before shutting it off. Regular oil changes. I recommend every 5000kms. Replacing the oil feed line for the turbo every 30000kms. Its only like $140 from for Ford including the inline filter. If you are just learning this now or have just bought a second hand car changing the oil feed line now could save you thousands. The last problem there is nothing you can do about. The factory Ford / Garrett GT35R turbine is made from GMR. GMR is the normal low temp material used for turbines. It’s usually used for diesels. For the modifiers when you start boosting the turbo up the exhaust gasses get hotter. Eventually the GMR material starts to break down. Usually out on the tips of the turbine. It not uncommon to pull the exhaust housing of a GT35R to find what looks like something has been hitting the turbine. Nothing has been hitting the turbine. The tips have started melting off and coming apart. Once this happens the turbo is no longer balanced. Unfortunately there is nothing that can be done to stop this unless an Inconel turbine is fitted. And Garrett doesn’t make an Inconel GT35R turbine. Regards, Ricky.

GT4082 It's not ball bearing Link

Yep, I'm going to come out and say flat out it's a "crap turbo". Huge mismatch of compressor and turbine. It's a crap turbo because there are many other options that will outperform it in its factory application. A 56 trim GT3071R with 1.06 A/R exhaust housing and bigger wastegate would have doon the job fantastic. Boost response would be ridiculously fast. Even the GT3076R would have been a better choice for the factory application. Above are just a couple of off the shelf options that could have been used not even considering building custom trim turbos for that specific application.

Are you sure the FG turbo compressor wheel has a 71mm major? If so I may have been a bit hasty to call what T04B comp wheel it is. I based my comments on an off the eye inspection from a photo. I have not measured the wheel. If it is the wheel I have stated it will have a 76mm major. Either way it is still poo. If you want my advice for what you are trying to achieve. Try getting your turbo built with a 50 trim version of the GT3582R compressor wheel. The 50 trim compressor wheel is from the GT4082. This will work allot better than the GT3076R comp wheel on the GT35R turbine. The combination I have given you will spool up just as fast but will make more power, or you can make the same power you are after with less boost.

The forum sponsor RAP1D will have them available soon.

There is a bolt on .70 A/R comp cover kit for $550 It comes with a .70 A/R cover that has the same bolt spacing as the factory comp cover. It does not require the ring. It also has a stainless wastegate bracket that looks similar to the factory bracket but fits around bigger comp cover. You can also get it with the 4" inlet or the standard inlet.

Any turbo shop should be able to get you a .70 A/R comp cover. You’re going to need to make a new or modify the factory wastegate bracket to fit the .70 A/R cover. The .70 A/R scroll is too big for the factory bracket to fit around and the bolts are spaced differently to the .50 A/R cover.