seduced

^agree with neo. Why waste money? Why not grab a loan if you are desperate for power and go all out first time?

so many varibles....so little information.... what has Ford replaced/attempted/diagnosed/done??? is there tune/exhaust/fuel/intake/turbo/coils/plugs modifications?

Depends on the dealer. I know a mate who has zorst/cooler/tune/injectors/intake on his 04 ba and so far the diff was replaced twice, 2 clutches and diff bushes were all done under warranty...

Thanks Nate. Do you work at SXFORD or just a customer? Im booked in with the other Ian, so all should be sweet.

...To be honest, you may be buying a car that's outside of your pay packet. Insurance, extra fuel costs, the tuning bug, the way they consume parts, all add up to a figure way beyond what most people first imagine. What happens when your summer job is over? Without sounding father-ish, why not wait until you're finished uni with a full time job, then you will be able to get into an FG for similar money. I put up with a camry for 6 years beofre I purchased my T. It had 300,000kms on it but it cost next to nothing. If you are at your max at low 20s, you should be looking for a car around $10k until you can afford something in the 25-30k bracket. Don't flame me, its simply wise moeny. Live like no-one else now so you can live like no-one else later. <---- that's a lesson I wished I learned earlier... Advice. Take it or leave it.

Thanks AA. That something else to add to the list. However, I will be doing a full deaden of the entire boot, hopefully this will reduce the noise enough. Whenever I have rear passengers, the arm rest is down. I've noticed the noise as well... Anyone know the best place to buy Dynamat X-treme bulk packs for a decent pricE?

I purchased a very late 06 bfmkii with 40,000kms, manual, c&v Tunes, prem sound, tint, 19" FPV typhoon rims, car bra, gen sheeps wool seat covers, 12 months rego, f6 intake, guages, immaculate body and paint (thanks to a very anal owner) for $28k almost a year ago. There are great deals out there, keep looking. Ask yourself: do you want a babied pride and joy with low kms and perfect history for extra $$, or a thrashed ex-chaser with a dodgy past and high kms for less $$???? Buying a decent car isnt a decision you should make lightly... don't make price your number one priority..

The stock clutch barely handles stock power. Anything more and it eventually will die. Sixth gear WOT on a flat freeway wont do a thing. Your not hitting boost nor is there any significant load on the car. Mine held in all gears on the flat freeways, if you really want to test it, find a decent hill in a 100 zone and go up it full throttle in fourth or fifth. You need to get into the fat of the boost so around 3000rpm. It should start to slip.

^awesome. Let us know, I have a feeling there wont be a big difference due to the boot lining not being "heavy" enough to absorb sound. But it certainly can't help. Once I get the diff/tailshaft vibrations sorted on my car, this process will begin. Dynamat X-treme will be on order!

THE SAGA CONTINUES: The vibrations are still there. It seems there is diff whine from the new diff aswell... So I rang my mate at Ford to book it in again... and guess what... He and the workshop foreman that worked on my car both were promoted to prestige service (land rover and volvo). So I was refered through to a different team in Ford service... hopefully the same level of commitment follows! Isnt that always the way though? These guys should have been promoted to workshop/service trainers, not just a different section... Update next week.

Southside - refer to your topic on "doing burnouts on the stock clutch". All your problems can be solved by reapring what you've worn out. Here's something to add to the mix: On the stock tune, it actually feels ALOT smoother (maybe its the less torque through the system???). The gearstick in 1st isnt anywhere near as bad. But there is still vibration from the rear (audible and physical) It honestly sounds like the diff to me. I think there are two issues. Under hard acceleration, the diff makes a whole heap of noise and vibration (the diff bushes are new, and yet this one clunks quite badly). Then there is the low speed 20-40km/h vibration that is separate again. I have a feeling the buggered falken 452s on the rear may have some part to play here. Back to Ford to have the diff looked at... also, I will fork out for some decent tyres and post back here results.

Intersting how you mentioned in my other thread about funny noises coming from your gearbox area... you failed to mention that you are attempting burnouts... Your stock clutch is stuffed. Mine did all the same things. I would drop the clutch at 3000rpm and go nowhere... smoke all over the place but it wasn't burning rubber...mine would also slip under full throttle. I had 250rwkw. Grab a Mal Wood Option 3 ACE Clutch. It will be the best $2k you'll ever spend. Oh, and say goobye to your tyres... they wont ever out grip the option 3. Its the perfect clutch imo.

I think he worded it specifically so that "sinking the boot in" doesn't seem so illegal. No mention of a race, just accelerated away from the lights and "laughed" indicating that he won the not-race. Also, no mention of the bogan accelerating. I think he is in the clear of condoning street racing.

I understand your point. This is not an attempt to reach the refinement levels of an ls430. That would be close to impossible without redesigning almost every aspect of the car. This is merely an attempt to improve the NVH levels to something of a higher standard over stock. These are cheap cars, and typically NVH is given a lower priority to power/handling in a sports orientated car. I can't speak for everyone, but 80% of the time, I'm driving fairly sedately down the road where 245kw and handling poise means bugger all. The car is brilliant at the sports side of things, now I want to make it brilliant at the cruising side of things. Weight is not an issue. A few extra kilos of deadening will not make a noticable difference in a car that already weighs 1.7 ton. The cost should come in less than $1000 as well. Which to be honest isn't all that much when people spend that on wheels/tyres/stereos/coolers to improve the car. This is just another area of improvement, not for better performance, but for better day-to-day driving. It makes sense to me. Now - Yesterday I purchased door gap foam sealer from bunnings. It was placed inside the glovebox lid on each side where the lid closes on the dash. That has fixed that rattle over harsh bumps. Lid now closes with a damped thud, nice and tight and feels solid rather than cheap and tacky. One down - many to go.... Also, I installed medium density foam blocks up inside the dash of both driver and passenger a-pillar locations. Also, some black foam was placed between the windscreen and the dash out-of-view. This has fixed dash creaks going around corners and over bumps. Nice and quiet!!! I'll grab some photos soon. Next stage: Fix the damn buzzing rear-view mirror... Anyone know how to get these off the windscreen mount? Lastly, I found a fantastic windy, scenic, empty stretch of road just near where I live that is great fun but not the best surface. Mid corner bumps and some coarse chip showed up the trouble spots in the car. The rear-view mirror, rear parcel shelf, noise from the boot, inside the door rattles, and stacks of tyre roar. On a normal peice of road these things never show up. One thing though - these cars are brilliant fun when pushed through corners...something a Lexus LS430 will never achieve...

Why dont you stop being a sissy and ask her rather than asking the whole forum: "Hey" "oh hey" "Look I noticed the other day you were over when we had pizza, well, I saw you take one of my finished crusts and eat it." ".......................ok.." "Yeah, I just wanted to know if that means you are fully into me?? I just thought the extra crust eating was you showing me that you want me and my germs and saliva.." "........what?......ummm..I think you need to lea-" "-I understand you are with my mate, and that's cool as long as we keep the whole thing under the covers if you know what I mean. I don't want him to know.." "..............riiiiiiiggggghhhht.......ok, sure, yep. I'll call you later and we can meet up, but you better go because he is going to be here in about 30seconds..." "wow! I knew it! awesome! wait til the forum hears about this! I'll....er...see you later then... wink wink" "k bye" *locks door as you leave, promptly calls your mate* and for some reason, she never calls you, you never see her again, your mate is angry and your board game sundays aren't so successful anymore. All this from a pizza crust.

No noises for me southside. Just vibrations throught the car and noticably the gear stick. You are still on the stock clutch? I'd start there.

The Diff was replaced due to a bad whine it has developed. Mine's only done 49,000kms, but I did consider it could be the engine mounts, I was doubting that theory due to the low kms... it does make sense though. I'm trying to get as much info as I can before I go back to Ford again. I found it helps to discuss possibilities with the workshop foreman... I'm going to take it down the road to Mal Wood's. If anyone knows the T56, it him.

A bit of history: My bfmk2 T has been in and out of Ford to have driveline vibrations repaired, and the guys at Ford have been awesome and really committed to finding the cause. We have not yet been able to fix the vibrations as yet. Its got a new diff, a new entire tailshaft, and fixed an issue with the gearbox not being bolted up correctly. This has reduced the severity of the vibrations, although they are still there, especially when under torque. Vibrations are: 20-40km/h - any gear - audible and physical vibration 50km/h-60km/h - mostly second gear - same as above, however higher pitched. Full throttle 1st gear to redline - whole damn car shakes and vibrates like mad. Full throttle 2nd gear to redline - no where near as bad as first gear, some vibrations although not too bad, fairly smooth. Full throttle 3rd gear to legal speeds - some vibration below 80km/h but not too bad. All are barely noticable under very light throttle, but are very noticable under heavy throttle/torque conditions. Now, the question I need to ask to help diagnose the source: Does your t56 have significant vibration through the shifter in 1st gear (does it shake gently in your hand)? Does it feel different to the other gears? And does your car suffer any noticable vibration through first gear under full throttle? Or would you say it is very smooth in all gears? Either its my rear suspension messing around under torque, or the gear box is the cause... its driving me crazy... im begginning to wish I'd never bought this car...

Certainly a step in the right direction aiboart. Tightening of bolts will be part of the process, with shock replacement being one of the last things at this stage. I want to see what benefits can be made without replacing parts. Great ideas with the boot liner etc, I will be checking that one out with dB results, however I will probably go down the dynamat extreme path for most body deadening. One other thing I want to look at is reducing driveline NVH from entering the cabin form,. This includes tailshaft vibration under torque, gearbox vibrations at lower revs etc. I want to look at methods of improving mounting points at each of these locations. Also, the filling of chassis blocks with deadener to dampen NVH. BMW and the like use similar methods, someone else here has mentioned this before in the diff bush topic I believe. Don't get me wrong. These cars deal resonably well with NVH already, for most owners, they may never hear or feel any problems. I'm just overly picky, and to be honest, if something can be improved than I don;t see a reason why I shouldn't give it a go. Better NVH does not have negative trade-offs unless you are a purist who wants to feel every inch of metal to become "one" with the car.... Problem Areas: Dash - requires disassemble and anti-rattle measures installed doors - removal of skin, deadening and tightening installed. various internal fixtures - eg rear view mirror, deadening and tightening. rear deck - deadening. a-b-c pillars - full deadening and install of sound absorbing material over full length of pillar - also deadening of foundation point to chassis (this is a key area to reduce noise being amplified across the roof panel) boot - deaden. floor - deaden. floor tunnel around gearbox through to diff - significant deadening. underbody - tighten all bolts, improve mounting points. wheel arches - significant amount of deadening where possible. review after all completed. Any further ideas?

Agree on the v8 comment. Although, I'd hate to see the field full of lotuses, porsches, and one-off race specials. Group C rules may work? Maybe they chose the v8 restriction so that you dont see a road spec Nissan GTR rock up and smash the field... Its a great idea, I hope it gets off the ground. people have been bored with v8sc for a long while now...

It would at least generate some interest back into australian touring motorsport. It would quietly kill off v8 supercars which honestly, would be very welcome. Great idea. I'd watch it.

hoping to restore some ride quality or is it purely for looks?

Fantastic response Daniel! That information is gold to me. I'm honestly glad someone else has this OCD-ish obsession with finding rattles and improving the overall feel and quality of the car. Im currently planning and researching the best methods to achieve what I want, from the simple console lid felt (which I've already done the exact same fix!) to the overall tyre noise fix. Obviously I want to do this as cheap as possible, I will include all of this information as well. I've already identified several key areas of noise amplification. I will do dB test prior to any work to show real benefits. This will be in a controlled enviroment. I.e Several different road surfaces, different speeds, specific angles of meter, correct tyre pressures. All tests wil be repeated on the same stretch of road at the same speeds and fully documented with costs vs results. This is the real deal. This process will benefit other owners hugely. I hope to make this interactive. That meaning I want to share theories, material suggestions, costs, suppliers, specific known problem areas (eg the dash creak....which I of course endure aswell...). Ths wont be a quick process, obviously it will take considerable time, money and effort which I of course don't have like all of us, but the sooner the better!!! I want to start with a problem list. Daniel has already provided a huge amount of points already. I will sart with these, but if anyone has anything to add at any point, feel free. As daniel has already pointed out, the trade-off of all this work will be MUCH improved audio response, that alone is worth it. The goal is to have an interior fit and driving refinement equal to the level the drivetrain already provides. I believe its the only thing missing on these cars! Thanks for the positive response!

I understand what you are saying. However, if you look at the differences between a euro jap and aussie car, some practices can easily be adapted. Euros and japs are not exempt. I've been in plenty BMWs/Mercs that suffer the same. A fmaily member has a nice 330i, paid a premium for it, and the interior is not all that different. I will pinpoint the areas in which road noise enters the cabin and look at ways to improve them. Cars share the same basic constuct no matter where they are made. Some companies invest into reducing NVH while others dont for financial reasons. The same basic principles apply across the board when it comes to acoustics.

The rattles aren't continuous, or loud. They will just sometimes ensure you of their presence every so often on rubbish surfaces. Or in the case on the weekend, the sun visor clip buzzed like mad until I unclipped it. I clipped it back in straight away and it continued to buzz. I unclipped it for an hour, then put it back in and it was fine. Most people will never even notice these rattles. I hear things others cannot. Its something I inherited from my father.... we used to spend hours finding obscure quiet rattles in the family car just so he could drive in peace. The car has only 48,000kms and has no more rattles than any other Falcon I have driven. It has FAR less then the VE Calais I drove all last week... I said to the owner of the Calias "how can you stand all those little squeeks and rattles??..." he look at me confused and had no idea what I was talking about. I just notice anything. Trust me, they could be very quiet and obscure, but I'll hear it and it will drive me mad until I fix it. Im annoyingly picky.