FAST-XR

thanks for such a useful post!

Currently mods as per signiture. While being tuned the car started valve floating at 14-15psi at top end, so the tune was backed off a couple of pounds to be safe. Currently running stock dump into 5" 100 cell cat, stock cat back... If I was to upgrade the full exhuast, would it relieve the valve springs enough to push the tune a little further? or at least be making more power at the same boost level? currently around the 300rwkw mark, was hoping to push 320-330 without having to do valve springs.

what restrictive ring are we talking about here? where the exhaust bolts up to the dump casting?

that sounds really cheap! hopefully your not getting a $10 chinese actuator...

its that using a 12psi actuator with std wastgate? how far can the std wastegate port go with a 12psi actuator without having boost controll issues? just looking at a 300rwkw tune, 12-13psi, is a port job required at this level?

my stock actuator couldnt hold more than 9psi, some people get lucky and some dont...

id like to know the width limit of 19" fronts without having to stretch a narrower tyre over it, I hate seeing rim hanging out... there is no way a 275 30 19 will fit on a 9.5" rim on the front at that ride hieght.

you can always unscrew the trumpet, and face the hole to the floor if your worried about it...

there is usually a small amount of 'blow by' oil in the intercooler piping which gets fed back from the rocker cover, some of this oil/vapour gets blown out of the blow off valve....

are you saying that the cold side of the cooler is too hot to touch while idling? that doesnt sound right... even at idle, once your engine is up to temp, the thermos will cut in and draw in that 18 deg air through the cooler, it should not get hot at all.... even the uncompressed air passing through the cooler at idle will not be that hot, it only gets warmed up as it passes through the turbo housing which will only add a few degrees to it... so even the hot side of the cooler should only be slightly warm at idle.... cold side should be stone cold still if ambient is only 18 degrees

what was the outcome?

Whats the best way to test an actuator? im having issues with boost, struggles to hold more than 10 psi.... trails off from 12 to 10....

thanks guys at WOT, should manifold pressure be almost the same as intercooler outlet pressure? if pressure falls away after the cooler in the same way that it falls away in the manifold, then its probably safe to say that the cooler is a POS would a leak at the manifold leak have much of an effect on the reading at the intercooler outlet?

I was after an indication of the hotside pressure, which is constant. I might hook up the boost gauge to the line between the actuator and solenoid to add another peice to the puzzle. what pressure reading should I expect to see in this line?

100cpi 5" cat. stock exhaust with straight through 2.5" mufflers...

between the turbo and the solenoid...

I measured them seperately. I moved my boost gauge from the manifold to read from the actuator line how does boost get pulled out when the actuator has constant pressure?

if you want to squeeze some more performance out of your air con, you will have to insulate all of the piping from the Evap and condensor. The alloy suction line from the evap is absorbing engine bay heat and reducing efficiency. Same as the accumulator, youll notice they are always covered in condensation. Insulate these with the black/grey air con foam insulation, the ones they use on copper pipes in refrigeration and air con systems... the less heat that is absorbed after the evap the better. This makes the condensor more efficient as the discharge temp from the compressor will be slightly cooler. This now means that the condensor has to deal with lower heat loads and can get the refrigerent down to a lower temp.... its a flow on effect

witht the HDI did your boost curve hold steady? or did it drop off at high revs?

a HDI cooler, 580 x 220 x 100... boost definately seems to start to fade when the motor is hot... I pressure tested my intercooler piping on the weekend, and found no leaks! so if my turbo is pushing constant pressure, and I have no leaks in my pipework, im thinking that I might have a leak in the intake manifold somewhere that gets worse after it gets hot...

it tapers off at about 4000 rpm, shortly after hit hits max boost...

I measured my hot side pressure on both tunes (from the actuator line at the turbo) 10 psi tune Turbo Pressure: 11 psi steady Manifold Pressure: 9psi and tapered to 7.5 psi 12 psi tune Turbo Pressure: 14 psi steady Manifold Pressure: 12psi and tapered to 9.5 psi So iniatially I have a pressure drop of 2psi then somehow my manifold pressure drops another 2.5 psi while the turbocharger is still pumping out the same pressure... Does this sound like a boost leak????? a constant pressure should equal constant pressure drop right? also is a 2psi drop overall acceptable? (that's inclusing hot side pipes, cooler, and cold side pipes)

here are a couple of pics of the stick im looking at making a new one instead of trying to mod this... probably just weld some threaded bar to some flat bar with 2 holes in it.

I know this is an old thread, but I am having dramas taking the know off the gear stick. My stick is Totally different to the pictures in this thread... my stick is a 2 peice job which has a rubber moulded section between the top part and the bottom part of the stick(possibly to reduce vibration?) ill have to post some pics... I removed the leather so ididnt damage it, I used vice grips on the knob, and vice grips on the shaft, I couldnt get it to budge at all...

I bet there is bugger all timing in that due to high inlet temps, youll gain a sh*tload of torque once after you upgrade!