FAST-XR

youll struggle to get a 3" bend that has a radius that small, itll be a sh*t load easier using a silicone bend straight off the turbo, and a filter off that...

you can get a complete new core fitted for about the $1450 mark...

youll probably have to trim down the silicone bend for it to fit...

how much power where you making before the exhuast upgrade to gain you another 30rwkw? must have been pretty high power for that much of a restriction???

pretty much, cold idle will always be louder than hot idle...

plazmana, hybrid and rapid all do bar and plate kits in this setup they will all handle the power you are chasing, some are bigger than others, and depends on the look you are after as well

personally, id be looking at a cooler kit with opposite end inlet/outlets with cold side piping... if you want to keep the crossover, I would go for a kit like this... most of the site sponsers do a kit similar to this, depends on which cooler you want. if you use black silicone and powdercoat the pipes black, no one would even notice... plus if you do decide to upgrade, its no hard to get the new cold side pipes to suit a plenum, or just remove the crossover and do un under battery intake, and you wont have to ditch the cooler...

another con for the B&P - the heavier bar and plate cores take longer to come down in temp due to their mass I disagree with this... the heat rejection of a tube and fin can exceed a bar and plate of the same size, it depends on tube pitch, fins per inch, etc, its all in the design... if the cooler is less restictive, you can make the same power on less boost, which will reduce your charge temp, and lower the work required by the intercooler

yeah pretty much... if you get a dump and cat fitted to your exhaust im sure you wont have much change out of $800

you will get close, but if your upgrading the dump, you my as well upgrade the cat back it will only cost an extra few hundred if you get the complete system as a package... and will save you doing it down the track

this is my HDI cooler, I think the bar looks full now I also did my own pipe work... if you dont like the top of the bigger coolers showing in the top grill, paint the top half of the cooler black...

as the others have said, the only exhaust mod you need to do is the cat... get a cat off rapid systems, 5" 100 cell, about $170 even at 270rwkw youll be pushing around 10psi, so id recomend getting a half decent cooler, itll be ok in winter, but wait till summer comes!

if your only chasing 300rwkw, then why not just keep the stock exhaust and put the 5" cat in it???? if you like the sound of it then keep it,its not going to hold you back at 300rwkw...

alot of BA motors have thrown rods running 12psi, it depends on the tune and how lucky you are!

sorry, plenty of oil left in the motor.... the engine light came on due to an unrelated fault code, reflashed and ok...

the noise is probably louder because its a boost leak, after tightening the manifold your now making a little more boost and its hissing out louder check all of your hose clamps....

yeah im sure mate, engine light came on this morning due to low oil after only checking it a few days ago! ive spoken to 2 places and they were only really interested in replacing the whole core on exchange basis, $1650 I got quoted! but surely if its just a seal it shouldnt be that hard to fix! the bearings and the rest of the unit are fine... do you guys recomend any turbo repairers in sydney? ive been to MTQ abd GCG

I have found excessive oil in my hotside pipes, I think I have a blown turbo seal, is there an easy way of confirming this? its not blowing any smoke also, what is a reasonable price for getting it reconditioned? and while its out, I was thinking about getting the WG ported... whats the average price for this too with an actuator?

yes they are both straight through I bought a second hand STD exhaust off another member. with 2 x 2.5" straight through center muffler, and 2.5" hot dogs at the rear, sounds awsome! chopping out a muffler is all about noise on our cars, not performance as they are already straight through...

are we all talking manual BFs here? if im driving in gear (1st or second) and I plant it, the tyres will just fry , with no hint of any interuption from TC, the light flashes to say that its doing something, but from what I have heard its only keeping me in a straight line

yeah I have seen those. what difference would it make increasing the volume? any bonnet clearance issues? I wonder how they go holding boost?

I just found this in another thread, looks like TC only kicks in when it thinks your going to end up sideways, and hence why it may have kicked in for seduce while exiting a 3 point turn

I have DSC. if its on or off, it doesnt control traction in a straight line... apparently it only helps keep the car from spinning out by braking indivdual wheels I alway thought, and im pretty sure, that BAs had TC and BFs Got DSC

hahaha, another way is to seal the outlet and dunk the cooler into a big bucket of water vertically(inlet and oulet facing down), so the air is trapped in the cooler, push down and submerge fully, bubbles with start coming out if there are any leaks...

I also have a BF MKII, it only has DSC and not TC. DSC does bugger all for controlling traction in a straight line.... I have launched it with DSC on and had no dramas as it doesnt cut in harshly like TC Are you saying that you have both DSC and traction control??? I didnt think they were both offered