bentles

add me to the list please sorry to bump off jetsnot lol VIC Bentley Oliver – FG Sedan Calder Park – 10.96 @ 130.59MPH - Radials APS Service centre copy pasted from icers list on aff. I sent him the time slip, theres no vid but can provide time slip if ya need

hey guys got a 2009 FG xr6t it was optioned up with curtain and seat airbags it has cloth seats I bought some 2010 FG 50th anniversary leather seats the only problem I have run into, is the front seats. they both have 3 plugs 2 of the 3 plugs go straight in, but the 3rd plug for the airbag has the locators in a different spot. my plug in my original seats is green and the plug in the new seats is black. the actual shape is the same, but they use locating sliders to make sure you dont plug the wrong plug into the wrong connector, which are different. Both seats have airbags in them, but im pretty sure in the 2010 the seat airbags were standard fitment but in the 2009 they were optional. anyone gotten past this before? worst case I can probably get access to a 2009 FG XT seat and see if they run a resistance plug to stop airbag light from coming on and run them but if anyone has just switched the plugs on the seats, or ground down the locating slider channels on the seat plug id like to hear about it. can't swap the entire airbag from seat to seat because the airbag is sewn into the seat fabric

the speedo is cos xr6t use a different way of getting the speed from the wheel speed sensors to the pcm... u need to disable traction control too if your car hasnt got it, and change the option for the vehicle speed input data or some sh*t (2 years since I did it I forget now) dunno what the deal is with your misfiring however *Beep*: the car is still going AFAIK but I sold it like 18 months ago dude...

sorry for the late reply, the best suggestion for your conversion would be to find a BA/BF ute write off with the looms and engine trans etc still all in good condition and just swap EVERYTHING.. BEM, PCM, full looms, motor auto, tail shaft, diff everything... then you wont need to code anything its just a case of bolt it all up, plug it all in, and the full drivetrain/electronics will just think its still in the ute. only problem I can see is maybe you might need to keep your bem because of rear door locking and tailgate locking etc... so you might needa use your bem and code pcm to bem...

just leave it man you arent gonna notice f*ck all, most of it will be noise so make you think its done more than it has, and then you will have spent money on the car for no reason, then will make it harder to sell it when your off your p's to buy a turbo... just maintain it, and put fuel in it till you are off your p's or until you have the balls to buy a turbo on your p's. maybe do things which u can transfer to the new car later?

he has a f6 already...

you sure about that? id say more to do with the fact ford dont make bushes to handle the forces of the diff moving around under braking and accelerating... how can steering chop out the bushes that hold the diff when the cv's would stop the transfer of force to the diff when steering

definatley wont be an na 6 lol.... even with the best of the best of the best money no option I doubt you could make more than 200-220 at wheels out of a ford i6

make sure it isnt the purge valve... hows the oil level?

then factor in track temp air temp tyres transmission condition of car etc etc etc... plenty of xr6ts running mid 14s and plenty of na cars running the same.... yeh 50 odd kw on paper between them....

yeah, I just did it much cheaper, chopped the plug for wastegate solenoid and the 2 plugs for boost pressure sensor off my mates na xr6 and just made a few more wires myself (no more than 10 things to solder in total) with the workshop manual wiring diagram its pretty easy to wire up... only a need accesory feed and another wire or 2 going to the ecu b plug, and the rest is emulate a turbo one into plug c...

had to make my own loom for boost pressure sensor and wastegate control solenoid, and a adaptor for the map sensors (different plugs on na and turbo) workshop manual has the wiring diagrams you need to copy to get it working... I cant remember off the top of my head what you have to do but its pretty basic...

yeah mate used na injectors they are the same as turbo ones, just different pressure fuel reg for the extra fuel needed.. and I used my old n/a fuel pump. was a pretty easy conversion for me, as im a ford technician lol, took from friday to monday on easter weekend with help from 1-2 mates for some things like guiding motor out taking off bonnet stripping 1 manifold while I do the other etc etc... if you are mechanical minded shouldnt have a single problem...

although the Na sumps have the hole ready marked and stuff the surface on the turbo sumps is also machined flat and I got it cheap enough.... I didnt touch my motor other than water lines and sump and gutting the butterfly's from the manifold etc... still no problems with it however I sold the car a month ago... I work with the guy who bought it and still no problems... hes just serviced the auto as the fluid was a touch dark and the cooler rubbed through the ac condenser as the bolts for its brackets came loose... but a new ac condensor through ford trade is like $200 so all good....

ive got a sticky in this section on how to do it man... have a read of that if u want...

lol that orange one in question is my house mates (he uses this account too) its not the one that keeps getting seen cos its never out much anymore lol... and ontop of that if it was the one people are thinking is XRDOSE he beat XXX270 a few times with all 410 of his RWKW (the turbo has 344 lol) so I dont think they will be laughing at u lol and how come its on ET STREET lol ? ill have to register n take a look lol...

there is a way to code without the IDS but its not very well known. also your car has an immobilizer called smartshield which lets the car start straight away with any key that works in the lock (this is just to make starting the car quicker) however it then checks the code of the transponder in the key to confirm its the same as the one programmed into the BEM. if it isnt the same it will turn the car off. that explains the starts then stalls straight away... because the keys arent coded to the vehicles BEM.

this is why I should steer clear of threads like this... ok first thing. if you go to program keys and the IDS freezes or anything during it, the keys are both erased.. thus they will start the car but as soon as the bem tries to get the security code from the ignition barrel the code supplied is wrong (cos key isnt trained to car) and the car stalls. why they can't program them I dont know, DCC has nothing to do with programming keys. maybe their IDS is broken and they are trying to get a new one asap. maybe they wiped the PCM while trying to do a reflash... its very easy to do it the cord for the IDS is a little bit iffy and such... the whole "some apprentice must have thrashed it" excuse is by far my favourite. at my dealership apprentices arent even allowed to road test the cars. infact even qualified techs arent allowed to if they are under 25. oh and "stink" I bet if you took your original key off your keychain and tried starting the car with the new key it wont work. there is an immobiliser in these cars for a reason man. unless its a pre smartlock car...

if you dont have a hoist forget the territory idea as the engines come out the bottom on the subframe still... bf xt is easy as to convert just take a weekend for it all including brakes etc etc... older car you will have sooooo much trouble getting anything to fit... and will require lots of money, then painting everything etc etc how deep are your pockets? if you're worried about the price of a 6sp and transfer case then id say a 1938 chev aint on the cards....

for a start if you want to run good times a set of MT on 17s is whats farrrrr better than any 18/19 inch street tyre on the market. second I find 18s look a tad small in ba wheel arches third harden up and get 19s. use 17s for the strip. cos you arent gonna want to use drag radials on the street and you aint gonna wanna use street tyres on the track

3.73 diff is good to compensate for the loss of power down low most people who cam cars with stock stall converters and stock diff gears complain alot... once the diff ratio is raised and the stall speed is raised also the cars go I <3 Bananas hard...

yuk. looks like ass.

fluke, if its disapearing on corners its most likley a wheel bearing... if its rear left should go away when you turn left as you are taking the weight off that wheel, turn right and it should get louder..... same story with front wheel bearings if its right front if you turn right that wheel has less weight and the noise goes away... turn left and it should get worse...