hypnodoc

Hi Teebone. I saw them when I bought the BMC filter for the still to arrive XR8 pod. I just can't bring myself to spend another $350 or so on another peice of plastic that's probably made in China and landed here for $30. I am changing tack and buying only metal parts from now on

Welcome DSWIDERS I hear that lightening strike (a pleasant plat/siver is coming soon). I waited 2 months out of an expected four, for Acid Rush, then got a call from the dealer to tell me that some poor bankrupted bast%&d couldn't pick up his Narooma Blue auto and I had three hours to make up my mind wether or not I wanted it. Well what could I do? Its a million times better than the rattley VY that used to sit in the driveway. The grass is definately greener, faster, better handling, and a whole lot better on this side of the fence.

KT, I think the T is a very cheap car to modify, no argument there from me, as an ex-pat Quenslander, my problem is finding someone in Perth who knows how to make the thing go. Bang for bucks I don't think there is anything out there comparable, my problem is wasting money on false promises by would be mechanics. But I think I may have finally found one with some smarts and some genuine interest (please dear lord) . I'll let you know on Tues. Perth, a great place to live, WA, it really does stand for wait a while

Hi Crow Sounds like you need a radar detector as well. I fitted DBA Golds drilled/slotted and went with Ferodo Formula pads front and rear a huge improvement at any speed, and I can't get them to fade. part numbers for pads are. FRONT DB1473FF REARS DB1376FF. I have double checked the numbers against the boxes (my better half keeps these things, just in case). I can't fault the Ferodos so far, and the guy where I bought them from advised me that they were a better pad than the self destructing things you have been running. Cost $300 all up inc Greedy Stealing Tax. Hope this helps

How do you find the octane booster, how often, how much, and what brand do you use.

A workman is only as good as his tools, or in the case of squandering plenty od mullah chasing kWs. Tools are only as good as the workman. I'll take my reading from the shove in the back when accelerating from now on

Perhaps you could try one of dynosteves modified fibreglass bonnets, there is a link somewhere on the site. Redcliffe dyno & Tuning. Sounds like you've got a pretty horny looking T as it is. The bonnets look great and must let a lot of heat out

Bought a PWR trans cooler and initally intended to put it between a bigger intercooler and the radiator. Then I decided to put the intercooler on hold until the UNICHIP is sorted and the bigger injectors go in on Monday, (it will be a long weekend). The trans cooler is plumbed in to re-cool the trans fluid after it comes from the factory radiator tank and sits (spacer) mounted about an inch in front of and with the base level with the base of the intercooler. I also run redline ATF, well worth the $300 in my book. I'm only chasing 350 kW at the engine and budgeted around $7000. I've spent three and a half of it dabbling with UNICHIP airboxes, DBA Golds and Ferodos, exhaust, etc. Hopefully by Monday night it will make the desired power. Then the investment will be closer to $5000, leaving enough to invest in one of those nice freer flowing PWR intercoolers. If I knew more about computers than typing and hooking up to the net, I'd post some pictures onto the site. $7000 to stomp Monaros and HSVs is a bargain in my book

The factory blow off valve plumbs back in and is good for nine pounds of boost. If you want a nice sound, try the Xr8 snorkel into the standard airbox a-la 56mainline.

I tried the xr8mod to the standard box with K&N filter. Drivability wise it works well but induction noise (sucking) gets quite loud. I have ordered the factory XR8 stuff and a BMC fiter to follow ms700s Variation. If anybodies interested in the complete XR8 adaption ready to bolt in with 3 week old K&N Filter. I have one for $150, $30 less than the K&N alone. Email me [email protected]

I have two intake pipes for two very good reasons. One is so the pipe can actually reach the XR8 airbox (there is NO WAY the original single piece of piping would stretch out that far, the XR8 airbox sits further away than the original XR6 airbox), and two is so the pipework still looks factory. I could have got some 3in mandrel aluminium welded up but it wouldnt look factory. The two intake pipes are joined together using a short piece of 3in aluminium pipe. ms700. I'm waitin for my XR8 setup to arrive (monday) fit Tuesday. I'll leave a post on the difference between 56mainlines adaptation and the real Mc Coy

Had it too, its called munched up bakerlite from the crap oil filler caps that self destruct under heat and fall into the valve gear, that's how the mechanic new about it. Did he replace your oil cap?

Lemme get this right, Rip Every Poor Cu*t Off want $180 for a K&N panel filter to suit a XR6T? Or is that price for the cylindrical filter for a XR8? Yeah ms700 REPCO want $180 for a K&N xr6 T filter, they wanted $215 for an XR8 pod style. I bought a BMC to suit XR8 pod from Perth Exhausts for $185, still $30 less. I notice on your XR8 mod that you have two convoluted hose, as in an extra one joins where the standard one would have connected to the original airbox. Why is this neccessary, and what did you use to join the two togeather?

:banghead:JIMBO, I know the frustration that you are suffering from but you can't give up. It's a shame that Ford are selling so many of these cars that build quality is suffering, trying getting something out of GM under warranty is like a chinese version of an Italian soccer match. At least Ford will stand behind their product, still it makes you wonder? So much for the clever country

Thanks XR6_Turbo_Phase 11. When I took mine in last week to get diff replaced (wrong centre ordered however), I also noticed that my handbrake had much more travel, and now the car rolls on hills also. At the time I had a set of drilled & slotted DBA gold rotors and the Ford spacer kit fitted to the front. I got it booked in on Monday for bigger injectors and to see if a different mechanic can tune the UNICHIP properly and wind the boost up to 10lb or so. So I will make around 270kW a benchmark, although I reckon the real test is a hurtle from 0 - 100 with the accelerometer on. I have also got a set of DBAs drilled/slotted for the rear and a set of Ferodo performance pads (brake parts $960), and also the entire XR8 cold air box set up $210 plus high flow filter $185, so it will be interesting to see how the car goes on monday night. I will report power gains and rear brake noise again on Tuesday oooohh the price of a kilowatt ain't getting any cheaper

Oh how right you are Falchoon. Repco charge around $180 for a K & N for a T, everybody else was 140, difference was REPCO had them in stock. Oh the pain of the free market place

Hi phase 11 Yeah I got it too woosh woosh woosh, just annoying, nothing to worry about. How many rear wheel kW has the stage 2 given you?

$58700 on road in July 03, for T with leather, auto, momo wheel and gearstick, mats, tint, scuff plates, h/light & bonnett protectors. Do 7000klm offered $49000 for trade on GT-P at full retail. Answer keep T and buy GT-P anyway. Insurance with SGIO for T $645, for GT-P $1450. 45 yo good driving history (except for those blo#dy multinovas)

Bought the entire XR8 assembly from Lynford motors (minus filter pod) for $210 + BMC filter Perth exhaust centre $185, wiil have it all fitted on Monday with injectors etc then post the difference between this set up and 56MAINLINES mod on the site. I'm waiting to see if the T retains that wonderful induction sound you get when you chop the standard airbox. Very exy experimentation, very addictive car . The GT-P will remain bog standard, well maybe

Airflow capability of standard filter becomes appalingly apparent when you blow through the filter then try it with a K&N. Alot more dollars but a lot less restriction fuel + AIR = power.

XR8 K&N Filter from repco $215 or BMC filter $185

Hi KTford. I tried that, just seems to make them more dull than they are or it scrambles their minds so they can't set up the dyno properly. I need to hypnotise myself to get over all the stress this bloody car has caused. I lived in Brissy for 10 years, at least chiptorque and Motsons know what they are doing. Bought an EB Xr6 from Southsides, your right, they are good

A coppers a coppers a copper. You only have to read the latest Motor magazine to see what the SA govt let slip out regarding what percentage of accidents are REALLY CAUSED BY SPEED. Theres a lot of good cops out there just trying to do a good job, it's a pity that the few with the MONGREL NAZI ATTITUDE spoil it for the majority of good ones. I remember getting pulled up years ago in a VL turbo in QLD for 210 on a quiet stretch of road. After the officer (who was alone) berated me, I looked at him with a blank expression and asked "Is it really that important". He looked at me a little shocked then said "Yes!, now on your way and keep the speed down. I think a lot of it comes down to attitude, ours and theirs. But sadly, lately its all about revenue I think.

In Perth Lynford motors at Osborne Park are Xcellent

My dealer told me that the series 2 will be around sept 04, and that the 280kW job will not be FPV but an upgrade option, considering the prem brakes etc, etc, you can bet the price will also upgrade by $6 -7000. As for the new 260kW SS Commodore. My T with a presently incorrectly tuned stage 1 UNICHIP whooped one last Sunday down the freeway. I know he was trying because he stayed (slowly fading) in the rear view mirror to about 220 (irresponsible I know, but 11.30pm on a clear long straight). Pity about the speed limiter, mine starts to miss at about 240kph. Anyway if FPV don't do something pretty quickly, those Monaros will embarass them again at the next Bathurst 24hour