Scrotus

Im looking to get a boost and oil gauge, not really interested in mounting them on the top of the dash. The only other spot I can think of is the console near the shifter, under the cd player. Has anyone else mounted them there? I would get one with a alarm, so no need to look at all the time.

They tell me its common for the control arms on the ba/bf to go. Ill get another shop to check it out. Mine is opposite to you, my tyres are wearing on the outside also have a few rips in the front tyre quite deep. That is probably unrelated though.

Im also chewing out both front left and rear left tyres. I went to a suspension place and they told me my bushes are gone on the left and the front control arm needs replacement. They also showed me some oil that was leaking from the suspension but wasnt from the shock. What is oil filled and is near the bushes? Anyway im not too sure about this place since they quoted me $300 for dunlop 3000A (not that im going to buy them again), and want me to get brand new tyres before they do a wheel alignment. I have a BFII-07 - 80,000km with lowered factory suspension

Just about to buy some new tyres so have done some research. For anyone who doesnt know tyres are graded using the Uniform Tire Quality Grading System - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UTQG. Anyway Ive checked out quite a few brands and here is what ive decided on. Nexen 3000 Just to give you an idea here are some sample ratings and prices. TYRE TYPE SIZE TRACTION TEMP WEAR PRICE Nexen N5000 Radial P235/55R17 A A 420 $120ea Nexen N3000 Radial 245/40ZR17 AA A 340 $150ea* Dunlop 3000A 185/55R15 81V A A 280 $188ea- price is for 235/17 The clear winner here is the Nexen N3000. I couldnt find the dunlop 235/17 on that site but the other brands seemed to have almost the same, if not the same ratings for each size. I have tried the Nexen's before and are great. For all tyre ratings check out > http://www.safercar.gov/portal/site/saferc...0002fd17898RCRD or the home page here > http://www.safercar.gov Some info on tyre grading: from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UTQG. Treadwear The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test track. A tire graded 200 would wear twice as long on the government test course under specified test conditions as one graded 100. It is wrong to link treadwear grades with your projected tire mileage. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use and may vary due to driving habits, service practices, differences in road characteristics and climate. [edit] Traction Traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A, B and C. They represent the tire's ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled conditions on specified government test surfaces of asphalt and concrete. The testing does not take into account cornering, hydroplaning or acceleration. [edit] Temperature The temperature grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B and C. These represent the tire's resistance to the generation of heat.

that valve thing snapped of in my cross over, pain the ass. New one however was not any different.

For sure you get more power, I know because my trusting wife fulled up with 95.... I noticed the difference. Either way car is now tuned for 98 so it gets it regardless.

Cost $140 for 2nd hand compressor + balance, looks like new now! Ill be refitting it today been working 12 hr shifts for last 7 days - no time! Have also got a ABP/CAI coming from process west, had to fit something new after taking it all apart.

ok this is for anyone as dumb as myself - Dont use adhesive glue to repair connections on the intake piping, it came off went trhough the turbo and is now costing $$$ and hours of time! Just go to fraud and buy a new one for $50.

haha na I wish! check this out bit more extreme though this guy didnt even get injured

ok just removed the turbo left manifold, I was actually lucky the bottom bolt was missing. All other bolts where quite loose, I only tightened them 2 months ago if that. I think I might try find some lockwire bolts when re-fitting the turbo.

Im about 3/4 the way through pulling the turbo off, but im not sure whats the best way to do this. I was planning to remove the entire manifold as it seems impossible to undo one of the bots holding the turbo onto the manifold. I also noticed there is some heat sheild which is stuck under the turbo which looks like ill have to rip/cut it off to undo the bold to remove manifold... Is there a simple way of doing this?

Was standing on the beach with a 14m kite, 45kt gust of wind came and threw me 20-25 meters in the air, landing in a carpark which was 100m away, broke shoulder, ass bone and had a bunch stones from the road in my eyes. that hurt!

arh ok doesnt say anything about this on your webpage. What do I need to change in order to fit under battery intake? Im keen on your under battery intake and a HDI cooler / piping will this combo work?

It doesnt change the performance because the intake will be str8 from the 3" Pod and rapids pipe into the turbo, so yeah it will just look 'funny' but who cares it will go quciker and sound bettter! Im going to order a 3" under battery kit

Miss_Aly seems almost cheaper to get a new turbo, least then wont have to pay labor for someone to R&I the old one. I think im gonna get the Rapid 3" intake + HDI intercooler kit oh and new bov mite be broke for a while now ( acutally im already broke! ) dont suppose anyone knows how much the HDI kits are from their website? On ebay they are selling for $600 though to access their prices on their website u have to pay 'membership' $25 USD.

lol, I dont really want over 350kw so std turbo will have enough. im gonna add rapids 3" inake when I fit the new turbo though, but I was thinking how does that go with water since its so close to the road?

Well I rang the shop they will have to take the turbo out, fix whats broken (send turbo away) and put it back in. They didnt give me a price said they had to see it. From talking to other people they reckon it will cost around $800 because of the balance ect. So If I can get a near new, used turbo for 1k or so it might be better just for me to swap it over, get broken one fixed and resell it. My main concern also is having the car off the road for a week or whatever..

Just found my turbo blades bent, I havent found the cause as yet. I was reading this post (http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=34011) which 3 other people said they had paint and chunks come of the cross over and causing damage to the turbo. All had this happen around the 80,000km mark.I currently have 80,200km! Another member said that the o-ring fell out of the BOV and caused the damaged. Im getting a new turbo, new BOV (mine making flutter noise) and want to change the cross over to prevent any chance of crap going in the turbo. Is there a aftermarket kit avail for replacing the stock crossover, I wouldnt mind changing all the piping but will have to wait till I fix these other problems first.

yeah had a look, as I said though im just after something that works no fancy noise's. Ill just grab the gfb plumb back I think.

The GFB StealthFx cost $500 or so, which is almost 1/2 the cost of a new turbo (which I need to get also) :( The GFB plumb back is adjustable. Im not interested in the noise just after something that works, is this why there is such a big price difference?

Mine just went at 80,000 bent blades (see this post http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=55271 page 2 has a photo ) My BOV is causing a flutter, I think it may have broke since I increased the boost (only to 10psi). Ill look for the cause once I get the turbo out, and hopefully find it before I put a new one back in...

What about GFB plumb back? Are these any good, new they are $235.

I was hoping you where wrong : )

There is minimal play, feels normal. Is there anything else that is worth replacing while the comp wheel is out? The turbo has 80 000km on it. Might be worth upgrading the Actuator?

:( Easy fix as it can be done in-situ or does the turbo have to be removed? What prices would I be looking at for parts? Is there any special tools or requirements when replacing the wheel? I just spend 3,500k on the bloody astra, so this is #2 wonder what is next ,..., !: ( Any ideas what would of caused this? I remember last week the intake pipe for the turbo came off maybe it nicked the wheel?