PHANTMXR6

Hi-tech? I heard Dave stopped tuning and shut shop? Is he back in the game again? You wouldn't know if he's done any FG's would you?

I'd love to know where that is in writing. That would be a massive case against Ford if proven.

Did you have the ignition on and the headlights on with no engine running? This voltage is probably about right if those were the conditions.

Some will say yay. Some will say nay. It's not the tank that supports the power, it's the pump. Some don't recommend this design of tank due to it's mounting position. Others say it's fine. I guess it comes down to personal preference.

G'day Plugg3r. Who are you getting to do your tuning up there? I'm keen on a tune this year but don't have too many options from where I live. Any help would be appreciated.

Mine made 11rwkW more.

Talk to Pat about these ones. New Product! - Ford XR6 Turbo.com Not that expensive compared to the Whiteline offering. And a top quality product.

It is self tensioning, but don't touch any bolts on the pulley. There should be a square drive hole to fit a 3/8" drive ratchet and small extension into. Have a read of your owners manul and it should explain everything.

Sure is. And it's approx twice the length of the B series. But, if you replace it Ford will supply you with a B series size fitting. The part number is the same across all turbo applications, but the screen is physically longer in the FG. I replaced mine after the first 15000kms just to see what the hype was all about and there was nothing in it. Pity I destroyed it removing it from the fitting, but the replacement was much smaller.

I've got various pics of the components, but no real fitted pics. Some showing the clearance you have to make for the drive belt and coolant pipe.

Well I'll be buggered.

I don't think you understand what I was explaining. The PCV system, if left standard, is not the issue. It's the excess oil that ends up in the intake system if there is excess blowby. Ford have semi tried to fix this by recommending removing the intake pipework to the turbo and cleaning it every 15000km service on the FG, but it is still an optional task. This build up of oil does sap power as it interferes with good air fuel mixtures. While it might be minimal, it is still present.

If you bought it direct from Ford it will need trimming to clear the bonnet. It will require the seal on the bonnet to be repositioned also. The holes in this pic are thefactory mounting holes for the seal. My seal has been moved back to where it is in the picture.

I looked, and on Youtube, but couldn't find any reference to clamping the brake lines, or mention of the ABS side of things.

Doesn't MWA make an anti tramp kit for utes?

I'd be getting someone to check the quote mate. There's no such thing as 'centripetal forces'.

MSD DashHawk.

6 Boost and Nizpro is all I can think of.

Are you serious?? An engine will most definitely not benifit from oil ingestion. It's quite the opposite. Oil will lead to carbon buildup on components like valves and the top of pistons. When that carbon breaks off it damages things like valve faces and seats, not to mention turbine wheels of turbochargers. Also, it can effect things like throttle bodies and sensors.

Other way around champ. The hose on the rear of the rocker cover has the PCV in the end of it. The breather tube goes from about the middle of the rocker cover back to the supply side of the intake plumbing to the turbo.

I like 'driving' my car. That's why I chose a manual.

If that's the case then I'd say they are shims that have been used to get the correct seated spring pressures.

The rears won't need the wheels removed to get them out. Just remove the lower shock mount bolt and jack the car up until there is enough room to just pull the spring out. You may need to remove the swaybar bolt to get it to drop enough also. Make sure you use an axle stand before sliding under the car. And as has been previously mentioned, chop the bumpstop off at the first section before lowering the car back down.

I'd reckon they are there to stop the steel valve springs eating away at the aluminium head.