turbotom

Check your previous water bills..... Ensure that the consumption volume readings written are consecutive... that is, check that the previous reading on the current bill, is the same as the current reading on your previous bill. Go back two years of bills to MAKE sure all the readings coincide correctly. Some of these wally's read the wrong side of the dial when the needle (or number) is at a changeover from 9 to 0. hence you're deemed to have consumed an extra 1000kL possibly... It does happen. also.... Did you mean 975 kL when you wrote 975 Ml ??? Typical flow from a single domestic tap is how much? maybe 60 litres/min. 975 kL is a lot of water.... that's 975000 litres..... would take about 12 days of continuous running to consume 975kL. 975Ml would take 30 years All I can suggest is monitor your meter (take a reading) each night to establish if there is a spike in consumption on any particular day, which may coincide with the use of certain garden taps/sprinklers/ or laundry days/ or days you are not home! It is possible that someone could have hooked into your supply line, but don't jump to conclusions till you've verified the leak is NOT associated with your own pipes. Hope you get a satisfactory outcome. tom

No competition for 100 octane fuel at the bowser! I think the issue with ethanol was when sitting for lengthy periods unused, there was a tendency for the fuel to coagulate, causing fuel filter blockage.... It was also thought at the time to be probably due to a cocktail mix with octane booster also??? Can anyone remember exactly? tom

Finally got thr namo communicating again... required a reset to reboot the USB plug and play driver. Appears that once a nano is set up for a computer, it does NOT like linking onto other computers.... ??? bloody fiddly little sucker... Now, where's my collection of Glenn Miller LP's

Yep.... she has her own profile... That's what I meant when I said her own folder... ( excuse my lack of techno vocabulary) What concerns me more now, is that I loaded the iTunes software onto another computer, and the USB connection still does NOT communicate ... I've always regarded Apple products with high regard.... Maybe I'm showing my age, but is the instruction leaflet they supply with a $400 device a bit light on in info? There's not much detail.... just a series of graphic images and a reference to a website. I know these new gadgets are intuitive to use, but crickey! A decent hard copy set of instructions wouldn't go astray... on the bright side.... I only just discovered there are some other features on these nanos.... clock, calender, stop watch, contacts list and games to mention a few.

I am using an iPod nano with the iTrip FM transmitter, and the quality is as good as the radio. There were some files that were corrupted during the conversion process in iTunes, so I deleted and conveted again (files from a CD). Now they are fine. Harvey Norman had a sale price on the iTrip at $47.95, which I thought was a good price for optional mobile audio I could play in the ute and the old '68 vette. The problem playing it in the vette, is I can't hear the music over the exhaust noise at speed.... The other problem is getting MY nano off my wife!

yes. she installed iTunes in her own folder. I'll try this next... but the computer doesn't recognise the attachment to the usb port. When it was working last week, iTunes would automatically open up once the USB port recognised the nano was plugged in. bloody technology. where's my gramaphone!

With all the young techno savvy members on this site, I figure there'd be someone who knows about these Ipod nano units. I got a surprise Chrissie pressie from the missus, one of these tiny new fangled nano Ipods.... bloody thinner than a Biafran it is.. and black like one too! Anyway, got the thing up and running and transferred some of my favourites... all seems good. My daughter, in the mean time, so impressed with the nano, bought one also. I just tried to get onto the computer to transfer some more music from iTunes, but the compute fails to communicate with my Ipod The USB link just does NOT plug and play. No recognition at all ??? Followed the links on the Ipod help screen.... not very useful. Either the cable is faulty (which I doubt, as it's only been used twice) or my nano is faulty. iPod is charging with USB, but NOT communicating at all. I purchased an iTrip on the weekend, and am wondering if that may have stuffed something up. Any iPod gurus out there who can shed any light..... cheers from a frustratred old codger!

<SPACE BAR> for throttle <UP> key for gear change <CTRL> key for NOS Don't forget to negotiate a fair race, otherwise you'll get done easy.

I just lost my Chevy Nova .... Blew the motor with NOS on the last run damn!

oops... just realised you are now in Sydney.... hmmmm..... I haven't been overly impressed with any meal I've had in Sydney.... except maybe Doyles at Watson's Bay. But they're NOT known for their steaks! tom

Sorry... Don't know of any butchers in Canberra, Cro... Have had a good meal at Belluci's though.... good Italian feed. But if you come to Adelaide, I've got a selection of places for you to choose good meat.... There's a Yugoslav named Michael, just down the road from me, who's been in his shop for over 45 years. Shop is called "Vienna Butchers", in Fulham. He supplies authentic smallgoods to many of the better butcher shops around town, and makes the very best chevapchichi. We love our protein in my house, and I have NOT been disappointed by any meat or smallgoods bought from him. There's also an Italian butcher around the corner, where I got 3 huge T-bones to cook up for a couple of mates last month. Almost 2" thick... I cooked them nice and slow.... Absolutely fantastic. Outa be too, at $22 each (raw) My mate bought me a bottle of Bookers bourbon for my 50th, and we got into it after the steaks..... I like bourbon, but that Bookers ro0ted me... 126 proof! We have a few good steakhouses here in Adelaide too. Old time favourite is the Barbeque Inn at Glenelg (NOT the one in the city, which is crap) No frills, just very good aged steaks with salads on the side. Plenty of fresh bread on the table, and selection of sauces, mustards or horseradish. Cooked on a charcoal bbq in view in the restaurant. Yugo family has run the business since I was a kid. In Melbourne, I'd recommend the Lygon Charcoal Grill, in Lygon Steet. He's another bratko. Knows how to source and cook good beef! I feel for you Cro. When you know what a good steak should look, smell and taste like, it's really disappointing when you get served mediocrity. happy searching... and Merry Xmas.

I don't think much of Shell's Vpower either.... Put some in my old 68 vette's tank, and motor was pinging badly under accelleration. It's not a radical tune either. I have used Shell's 95 ron pulp without issues in the past, but this V-power is CRAP. So much for it's 98 RON rating. I'll stick to Mobil Synergy 8000 or BP Ultimate thanks. tom

Around town the fuel economy can be higher than you'd like.... especially if you are crawling along in traffic. Obviously the style of driving you possess will also be a very big factor. To give you some feedback.... I had a VR Calais (94 model 3.8 V6) and was getting around 16 l/100km around town and about 9l/100km on my interstate trips (Adelaide-Melbourne) I have my XR6T ute, and get about 17l/100km around town, and 10l/100km on my interstate runs.... and I have over 300 rwkw available which do get used. So make up your own mind whether that's excessive consumption. PS... I was getting poorer economy when the car was stock 19l/100 city / 12l/100 highway. EDIT is the way to go with a quality custom tune for both power and economy. tom

The standard BA brakes are absolute crap. Not only do the rotors warp, causing ongoing problems with shudder, but they also are very prone to fade if the car is used with any enthusiasm at all. Upgrade them. Bare minimum is better quality rotors and pads, but really you need bigger rotors at the front.... The stock rotors are not big enough... especially if you increase power with an edit. The PBR Performance kit (similar in specification to the Premium package from Ford) is an alternative PBR brakes cheers tom

That's all they do.... just provide some pretty lights for you to look at. If you want a useful AFR gauge, you need to install a wide-band Lambda (O2) sensor and associated display. There's a bit more cost involved though.

What's going on, on this site. All these "Young' uns" seem to be losing their way.... too "in-touch" with their feminine sides , it seems to me. SHEESH! A few days ago the forum was abuzz about facial creams for blokes... today it's semantics that I thought only women find confusing.... I tell ya, it's a conspiracy started by all those lefty dykes running the education system.... This country is in need of real male role models in our schools. tom

The problem, as I see it, is the person who quotes "Next weekend!" It is ambiguous (for some). This weekend and next weekend are the same bloody thing in. If you mean the weekend after this weekend, then bloody say "the Following weekend!" Only shiela's use ambiguous language! A real bloke would just tell you the date! End of argument.

I have used the Shell 95 RON pulp in my 68 'vette without issues previously. I usually use Mobil Synergy 8000 though, or BP Ultimate. I tried some of this Shell "V"Power last week in my old 68 'vette..... and it started pinging under full throttle! I won't be using it. tom

My experience with the unichip was even though I had a good peak O/P (308 rwkw) it was really quite a slug getting off the line. I had the APS Ph2 kit with the addition of the APS IC and waste gate mods, but retained the standard battery and air box locations. Looks quite stock under the bonnet I can certainly empathise your situation, Narelle, where you always want more power..... I don't know what your power curve looks like, but here is a graph of my experiences with Unichip and Edit. Same car, same hardware mods, just different tuning tools. Unichip tune was done by Morpowa (Adelaide) and Edit custom tunes have been done by HP-F in Melbourne. Edit transformed the driveability of my car in a very pronounced way..... peak power was very similar, but I gained substantial mid range torque. Boost was better controlled, economy improved and performance in real terms is without comparison. No issues with pinging, no problems with starting, idling and throttle response is also much better. Throw in the fine tuning of the trans to improve shift action under performance mode, yet smooth (almost like stock) under light throttle conditions and in my opinion, in the hands of a good tuner, there is NO comparison in the advantages of the edit over a unichip, simply because of its ability to set the car's own ECU correctly with the mods you have added. You say you want more power Narelle..... It gets very costly above where you're at now..... 340 rwkw ? as you are at the limit of the mechanical integrity of the stock FORD motor's components (rods/pistons/crank etc) Just a suggestion..... as happy as you are with the unichip, you can get much better "seat of the pants" feel of power with the Edit without actually getting any more peak power.... just a stronger delivery earlier in the rev band. note that this also puts a lot more stress on driveline components.... clutch (if it's a manual) gearbox, driveshafts axles and diff etc good luck with your ride.... sounds exciting. tom

Hey Zap... I always stop and take a second and third look at your avatar.... That would have to be a perfect AWD drift.

buddy..... If you've got 330 rwkw already, you aint going to be satisfied with a measly 20 kW increase. If you want a real performance hike, then yes, you will need a bottom end rebuild..... but build it to take 450 rwkw. That will at least justify the $12k required to do it. (don't forget drive line issues!) Otherwise, I'd say be happy with the power you've got...... maybe fine tune the power curve to get better results for your given passion - be it road warrior, 1/4 mile junkie, or race track star. tom

are you for real? bloody nancy boys!

You're running a manual, so I guess you haven't got a trans cooler. In your situation, I would place a large capacity, high flow through oil cooler, in front of the IC where it gets first grab of the cool incoming air. I have my trans cooler ( Maxiflo 600 x 110 x 15mm (w x h x d) ) fitted in front of my APS IC, behind the top opening of the BA grille. Trans temps drop 30 degrees C with this cooler, and as it is a very high flow through system, plenty of air gets through to the IC and the radiator. Don't forget, if the engine oil is cooler, there will be less stress on the (water) radiator to maintain temps. For track work in a T, I would seriously consider an oil temp gauge if you haven't already got one. Water temps are one thing.... oil temps are not the same. By the way, also check your thermostat. I found my 82deg thermostat was faulty a couple of weeks ago. Just dunk it in some boiling water and make sure it does open. Mine was remaining closed. Now all is well again.... 40 degree Adelaide weather last week, and car engine oil temp at 80 deg C...... but it does climb if pushed continuously. Engine oil cooler is the go...... Some form of thermostatic control would be useful too, as a 30 degree drop from nominal op temp is NOT good either if running on the street in winter. tom

Seeing as the end tanks are very tight at the top, it can be expected that there will be reduced flow through that section. Given also, that the bumper assembly occludes direct air onto the centre section of the IC, you also get reduced effectiveness if you raise the IC. You might find that you will get better measurable efficiency by modifying the guard panel underneath to allow the IC to get as much of it's surface exposed in the bottom sector of the grille opening, as that is where the majority of the air will flow. just a thought. tom

To give you a more realistic approximation of your torque output, you can calculate it with the following formula: Nm = (kW x 9549) / rpm looking at your graph, I'd estimate your pk torque is about 573 Nm @ 3500 rpm. ie, (210 kW x 9549) / 3500 = 572.94. and your still holding 500Nm at 5500 rpm, so you've got a great constant push in the back right through the rev range.... I gather it's a 4sp auto, as the test was done in 3rd gear. Don't know if you've done any mods to the trans, but your tuner has looked after you by limiting the torque at a sensible level. cheers. tom