Daniel

I too would say it is most likely to be the rubber you're using! Even good tyres will wear and become harder and noisy over time; my last michelins did and I just swapped to yokohamas and they're quiet again.

Sorry, I do disagree, but only partly. I also use FG's and other manufactured vehicles and (obviously) own a BF F6, but as you mentioned the FG, I will stay on topic and explain I find it (the FG range) to be the very same as the BF with these small inane things this thread seems to be focused on. Many other aspects have improved greatly over the Fg range and the only thing I have noted that would apply here is slightly less NVH from the FRONT END of the car. I am in no way saying that nothing has improved from BF to FG ( I don't want to start a war on this again lol) as they certainly have, even with materials in some places inside the car. When it comes to fitting, I still see the very same issues, time will tell when these cars get some kms on them and they get used in day to day use - do a search even right now and there is many FG owners who have issues with dashboards and seats, back end noise etc... It is all a little too familiar to us, isn't it? Sadly. I hope that makes sense.

I think this topic could be the most interesting topic on this forum for me personally as I work in the audio/research industry and have very sensitive hearing, picking up ALL the things others also just go 'meh' over! Funny enough, this should be a very interesting topic for anyone who likes good sound in their cars or has invested in anything other than the Ford/FPV Premium Sound as the more background noise you block or cancel out along with pesky rattles and buzzing, the better everything else will sound. It will be a noticeable difference on good gear, I have already noted improvements on my F6 and I haven't changed anything from stock with the stereo system, yet. I have (possibly crazy... haha) dreams to make my car silent as can be also, but honestly I don't have enough time to really get well into pulling the car to bits as I need it all together for work and doing this can take time, money and effort that your wouldn't expect. What I have done is played around with a few problem areas I have come across while living with/modifying my car and noted some interesting results I will try and explain to the best of my ability. Problem areas I have noted (some were on my car) other than general road noise or "one off" issues people may have from broken parts: - Wind noise around mirrors. - Wind noise around A pillars. - Creaks in the dash (it is a lucky dip with Ford/FPV as to how many and how often this happens). - Vibrating door lock on drivers door when in the 'up' position on rough roads. - Wind noise around the B pillars. - General road noise from under the car. - Rattles around B pillars. - Rattles around C pillars. - Wind noise around C pillars. - Excessive fuel pump whine (modified only in most cases) from under rear seat. - Rattles around parcel shelf. - Rear center seat belt rattle with heavy bass. - Squeaks from the center console when opening/closing or people lean on it. - Squeaks from front seats. - Leather trim on front seats rubbing on plastic side of seat when 'not so small' people are in them. - Rattles or squeaks on bumps with the BF silver door insert spears, also when grabbed/doors close. - Rattles in or around the rear brake light on the parcel shelf. - Rattles in boot lid with lots of bass. - Buzzing rear view mirror. - Excessive road noise from boot floor/sides. - Excessive road noise with bad tyres or big rims from around wheel arches. - Excessive road noise from around door trims. - Rattles in sunroof. - Buzzing electric window switches on drivers door. - Clunks or thuds from spare wheel and/or jack moving around with larger bumps. - Excessive transmission noise around the center console and transmission tunnel. - Excessive differential noise from around the rear seat and spare wheel well. - Drone at the back of the car coming from around the wheel well and boot walls. - Rattle from rear overhead map lights. - Excessive engine/wind/road noise from around the firewall and front footwells. - Rattle on dash where passenger side airbag is mounted. Now that is some off the top of my head I have come across in my own car, work cars, friends cars and other forum members cars. Below is some small things I have tried to help each of them so far and what the result was: (Note: I don't have all of these and haven't even stared on others) - Wind noise around mirrors. I removed and refitted my mirrors tighter and more carefully only as I noted it was also vibrating, this stopped the vibration and some wind noise but I have now noticed that the exact angle of the mirror sail where it screws onto the car is very important to stop the most wind noise. I have no clue how else you could improve this beyond what I have tried, I fear you cannot. - Wind noise around A pillars. I have removed the A pillar covers and applied a small amount of metal/tar sound deadener (not to deaden, but to block noise) and then applied some dense/absorbent material to the back of the A pillar covers. This has made a small, but noticeable difference, you could get better result by putting even more in there I am sure, but the "cost vs result" would mean you would spend a lot of money for little benefit. - Creaks in the dash (it is a lucky dip with Ford/FPV as to how many and how often this happens). I had one creak and I have had it since new near the passenger side A pillar/dash/windscreen area and it has been back to Ford from day 1 to fix it ~8 times with no result. They tried all sorts including swapping airbags, A pillar covers, dash side covers, glove box and lubricating things to silly degrees. I have taken a (15cm x 5cm) piece of suede like material, rolled it up and pushed it behind the dash board hard up against the windscreen right near the A pillar/air vent. This has stopped my creaking AMAZINGLY! I have pulled the whole thing apart nearly trying to find this, found that a common creak in most BA/BF range is where the metal of the car meets the dash pad; this moves and creaks badly in some cars. - Vibrating door lock on drivers door when in the 'up' position on rough roads. I have put a small ring of adhesive felt around the bottom of the lock where it cannot be seen, this hold it tight but not too tight, it also operates smoothly and before I did this I was always OCD about locking the doors when I got in to stop it from vibrating lol, now I do it only for safety! Worked perfectly. - Wind noise around the B pillars. I removed the belt adjuster trim and then the long black trim that covers the belt and B pillar from the waist down to the floor. I then applied the same material I did behind the A pillars on the back of this black trim and also blocked up a big hole/cavity behind the belt which seems to be large/hollow and could allow a bit of wind noise or resonance within the immediate space. This is very very small, but possible and once you start looking for culprits, you want to eliminate ALL little possibilities. Not too sure how affective this was as the day after I tried it I got the flu and couldn't hear properly anyway.. I feel it has made a small difference which is helping have an accumulative affect. - General road noise from under the car. I have not really tackled this, I have just put new tyres on my car (nice quiet/soft yokohama advans sport v103s) nd that has helped a fair bit, I suspect to really fix this you would need to pull the carpet out of the car and apply sound deadening and/or absorbing material to the underside of the carper or floor pan. Maybe even try brush/spray on sound deadener on the bottom of the car, this would be a big effort however as you would need to remove many components and apply it liberally yet evenly or it could be a waste of time. - Rattles around B pillars. When I took the belt adjusters to stop wind noise from behind/below, I also fitted lots of adhesive felt on the back where all the plastics touch each other and I'd say this was a perfect fix. - Rattles around C pillars. ame as A pillars with material and application, but also made sure all cables, drainage pipes (from sunroof I suspect) and the FM receiver for the rear window mounted antenna was secured strongly with tape and some metal/tar sound deadening material again. Has worked 100% also - Wind noise around C pillars. Same as rattles around C pillars above. Wind noise is reduced, but not all together gone. - Excessive fuel pump whine (modified only in most cases) from under rear seat. I have lifted the rear seat pad and installed metal/tar sound deadener over everything I could reach/see/find, then got some Dyna-Pad (good but very expensive) and put a small sheet of that over the fuel pump cover with a small amount of adhesive to hold it over the pump. In the even I need access to the pump, it can be removed with a little bit of effort and depending on who removes it and how carefully they do so, it could be reapplied once finished. Over the top of all this I have a sheet of strong (almost like vinyl) plastic material cut to fit right under the seat to hold everything in and hopefully hold in some sound that has come through some of the small holes you cannot cover with sound deadener/blocking material. This has worked very well, however I feel if I had used more Dyna-Pad and not a small (roughly 40cm x 40cm) square over the pump it could have blocked out much more. Due to the lack of spare space under the seat and the thickness of the pad (plus the floor is not flat, its a pain in the arse to work on) it just didn't seem like an easy product to apply in this area. - Rattles around parcel shelf. I have applied metal/tar sound deadener to the bottom of the parcel shelf under the carpet cover, covering all the holes and pretty much everything in sigh other than the speakers, obviously. This has blocked some of the road noise you could hear from the back and a nice little side affect is that the bass response and sound from the rear speakers has improved remarkably. I have not applied anything to the top of my shelf as I started with the bottom and was very happy with the result; if you wanted the absolute ultimate in bass response from a parcel mounted subwoofer (stock or not) or sound blocking, then apply the same material to the top for sure. - Rear center seat belt rattle with heavy bass. I don't have this issue, maybe apply sound deadening to the bottom of the parcel shelf below where it sits, by adding mass you often remove small things like this. Sorry I cannot be too much help there. - Squeaks from the center console when opening/closing or people lean on it. I have applied some black adhesive felt around the two small pegs that stick out of the console lid where it meets the plastics of the console. This has worked very well for me, I'd say this style of approach should fix the issue 100%. - Squeaks from front seats. I had 2 squeaks in my drivers seat, one was fixed by tightening the 4 main bolts that hold the frame to the base of the seat. The other I fixed by cleaning and lubricating the wires underneath. This has worked 100% for me. - Leather trim on front seats rubbing on plastic side of seat when 'not so small' people are in them. I have removed the plastic covers from the front seats, worked out what ares on top are the areas being touched by the leather when getting in and out or turning/sitting. Then got some higher quality black 'suede' felt (adhesive again) and carefully cut it to match the contours of the top of the plastic as not to look 'tacky' or non standard. This looks stock (IF you even see it) and has stopped all the noises made from leather on plastics which drove me insane for 2 years! - Rattles or squeaks on bumps with the BF silver door insert spears, also when grabbed/doors close. I have removed all the inserts, applied small strips of thin adhesive felt along the insides of the handles and some parts of the outsides on the spears themselves, I am astounded that this issues exists and that Ford claim it is "normal" ... pathetic! This fixed mine 100%, they are now solid in your hand and silent to the ear. - Rattles in or around the rear brake light on the parcel shelf. I have not had this issue. - Rattles in boot lid with lots of bass. I have not had this issue. However in my efforts to stop just that little bit extra road noise and exhaust noise without going over the top in costs, I applied some adhesive semi closed or mixed cell dense foam. This has helped for what I was trying to achieve and I'd suggest doing the same with some metal/tar sound deadener underneath to bring in some mass to stop rattles if you have this issue. - Buzzing rear view mirror. I have not had this issue. - Excessive road noise from boot floor/sides. I have applied metal/tar sound deadener sheeting over the entire of the boots insides, in some areas more than 1 layer. This helps significantly with road noise but I feel that when I added the adhesive semi closed or mixed cell dense foam over the top of the first layers, it helped considerably also. I also put in some Dyna-Pad to help with drone or road noise, this helps slightly but is very hard to install as mentioned previously! - Excessive road noise with bad tyres or big rims from around wheel arches. I took my wheels off and applied some liquid sound deadening tar to my rear wheel arches and the cabin side of the front arches, this helped a lot in my opinion, but it VERY messy and a royal pain in the arse trying to do it on an every day car whereas if it were on a project car I would imagine it would be much easier and you could really get into it. - Excessive road noise from around door trims. While all cars have this issue, I have not tackled it yet; I feel the best way would be with sound deadening sheets again and maybe some rubber/foam backing to the door trims. - Rattles in sunroof. I have not had this issue. - Buzzing electric window switches on drivers door. I have not had this issue. - Clunks or thuds from spare wheel and/or jack moving around with larger bumps. I have not had this issue; I keep my wheel strapped in tightly and now with all the stuff I have added to my boot to stop noise, the wheel only just fits back in the wheel well anyway, same with the jack. - Excessive transmission noise around the center console and transmission tunnel. I don't believe I have this issue, however I noted there is a bit of space around/under the center console you could put some foam or deadening materials also. - Excessive differential noise from around the rear seat and spare wheel well. I didn't believe I had this issue, however when I did all the work under the rear seat and the boot floor, I noted it was a good way to stop noise from that area. The only way I could see a noticeable difference other than what I have mentioned would be to apply lots of the liquid tar sound deadening around the immediate area under the car. - Drone at the back of the car coming from around the wheel well and boot walls. Read as per boot noise, I have also put a small amount of liquid tar around near where the mufflers sit and around/on the spare wheel well; has worked very well, but again it was damn messy and the effort put in was notably high with no easy access under the car. - Rattle from rear overhead map lights. I have put some dense/absorbent material (roughly 30cm x 20cm 2 layers thick) around the head space and behind the map lights inside on top of the roof lining while I was tackling the C pillars. This stopped the rattles 100% and couldn't hurt anything else. - Excessive engine/wind/road noise from around the firewall and front footwells. I don't want to think about this, it will be a huge job with my skills/time/funds! My initial thoughts are to start around the footwells from inside then up behind the dash as far as I can get to. Then up behind the windscreen wiper grates on the outside maybe and see if they are the main culprits; if not I will probably not bother as to get in any further would require a lot of disassembly & reassembly which I don't have time for. - Rattle on dash where passenger side airbag is mounted. I have not had this issue. OK, now I must say that while this may help a few people, I can't wait to see what the OP finds and comes back to us with (sound levels, REAL proof!) Cheers - Daniel

Ae you getting the EDFC for it too? Pics/review when done! Where are you getting them from? I cant find many places that have them who know what they're doing without being overly bias.

The A pillar covers are easy as, you cant break them. Just get ahold of them at the top where they meet the roof fabric and slowly pull them out from the pillar and they unclip. The spears are held in with the same style clips, HOWEVER on the ends I recall seeing they also tucked in to hold them in (not something you can just rip out, or it will break). Take the dash side covers off (you see them when you open the doors and have stickers on them for air bags or something) they are just clipped in and pull out similar to the A pillar covers. From there I think you can see how the spears are clipped in also. It was easy to work out once you could see without the side panel anyway... Good luck.

It is a BPR CAI. The BluePower Racing CAI is arguably the best aftermarket airbox/CAI around (for looks/cost/performance) if you plan to get some serious power without changing location of the intake as the standard one is quite a restriction at 350++rwkw...

Some of these shots are really nice guys! Very inspirational, but I have gone for the "tidy stock" look to keep unwanted attention to a minimum hehe:

Im still using stock rims, 245/35/19 and I had Michelin Pilot Preceda 2's that worked pretty well for anything up to ~320rwkw... Once they go to about half tread, I upped the power to ~345rwkw, they become hard and noisy with useless traction (spun at highway speed if you booted it) and all the way from stop.. shocking. Now, with 370+ rwkw, I just fitted a set of Yokohama Advan Sport v103's and they are so far brilliant. NOT a cheap option, but I dot have to worry about clearance, rolling, new rims etc etc etc!

I have seen a few now and the colour has been different from stock as said above.. Stock is a silver colour with a stick on it (see the pic above) and may look a little discolored, but is mostly silver where the aftermarket ones I have used/seen have been gold colored and have no markings or stickers at all.

Nah no spare was available at the time I got mine, if anything happens to this one I will just sell/dump the car on the side of the road... its easier and less expensive to sort out!

My first one was exactly like yours, so I feel for you.. MY HONEST advice is if its under warranty, take it to Ford now now now and tell them to fix it. There has been 4 complaints to fairly high levels (1 being me) re this issue and at first they were trying to say they had heard nothing and don't know why it would happen. They now admit it has been mentioned by a few owners and its the swap in manufactures that has caused this issue. I am more than 100% sure of this now! The good news is my new insert was fitted this afternoon, made by the old supplier and it is back to how it should be! Ford did nothing but drive me insane with this issue and I would love to know why they couldn't do this when I first had a problem and not months and months later! Case closed for my issue; hope this helps other people in the future! (I'm positive it will)

Car: 06 F6 Typhoon Transmission: ZF 6sp Semi Auto Power: 370+rwkw Boost: 16-17psi Induction: BPR CAI, stock pipes/cross over, plazmaman UBP Turbo: Stock turbo with upgraded actuator and ported waste gate Valve springs: Stock Exhaust: Dump, high flow cat, Y-pipe, center muffler split into quads with 2x custom mufflers sporting stock GT tips. Fuel pump: Walbro high flow pump Intercooler: Plazmaman Injectors: Re-drilled stock injectors Power adder: Custom tuned by BluePower Racing

I have emailed EGR and followed up with photos etc... Seems they are able to help, but just in the midst of discussing it amongst themselves to see what the real issue was with the new moulding or materials. I am also in the middle of searching for some old stock laying around somewhere too, not easy. This has almost become a 2nd full-time job trying to fix! I'd say give them a go, EGR can do it if you'd like.

I know I dont have a xr6t, but on the F6 I found when stock I was getting 5.2 over and over without breaking a sweat. Pulled a couple of 5.0s but could NEVER get it below 5 stock.. When I got up to around 300rwkw I was able to get it to 4.4 with good tyers easily but it was very hard to try and improve on that. Now with 370+ rwkw and tyers that are almost had their time, I reckon I'd be lucky to get any better than the 4.5 still as I have to start slower with lack of tread. With new tyers, time will tell...

I have been running roughly that power for years now.. I've now just recently gone well over 350rwkw and it has not made one shift or noise out of the norm and I honestly think that the rest of the driveline is equally as breakable. I'd say its very safe and "streetable" with that sort of power give or take even a tad more..

Would you happen to know when they stopped making them or how I would be identify if it was made by EGR or the other one near by Ford? I might send EGR an email...

OK, status update: RACV are a bunch of arrogant tw@s to be polite.. they refuse to speak to Ford/FPV on my behalf as it is 'not their job to do so' but claim it is up to Ford/FPV to sort out why the insert doesn't fit. Seems fair regarding Ford/FPV being the ones to step to the plate as they changed the bloody measurements of the bar or insert or both! Ford/FPV claim they aren't aware of any issues and that they need to have their "Tech" department look at why they don't fit each other, but that they won't be supplying a new bumper bar no matter what the case. I am living in fkn la la land where everyone is able to say "nah, I don't think ill help fix problems I caused to this PAYING customer, F*#^ off..." and I am at wits end! Both parties claim it is up to me to pay for a genuine bar, painting and fitting even though I bought a brand new FPV F6 and pay $2200-$3000 pa for insurance with RACV for 6yrs! What is worse is I didn't do the fkn damage in the first place, somebody hit me! Does anybody here work for Ford or FPV or have any advice?!

Could not agree more! Having had all the power for so long, the only thing you need to know is you can make it spin at ill IF you want to, but I don't really think there is much reason to on the road unless you're a tool or a show pony who doesn't care about the ramifications! Also that the tune plays a huge part in the way it will break traction. Aggressive tunes will slam the boost in at one very narrow point in the RPM range which is obviously going to the take the tyers by surprise and they will light up. Progressive tunes have just as much power, faster for day to day use, 100% more usable meaning you can drive quickly without breaking traction unless YOU are aggressive with your foot. As said above also, it is much more impressive and important to get power to the ground with as little wheelspin as possible no matter how little or how massive your power levels are!

Anyone got any contact and pics of cars tinted in Melb? It seems Sydney has some great offers with Bob..

Yes, that's bizarre for sure! Id try working out what part is not right (foams/frame/rails etc) and get some spares from a wrecker like FTG etc.. Then swap them over and drive in comfort, it'd be very tiring on your body to drive long distance like that I would think.

Latest update: Panel shop claim its not their decision. Ford claim there is nothing changed and that it is not their fault. RACV claim that For have changed the parts moulds and that they will offer me $800 cash settlement and I go buy a new bumper and insert myself then pay to have them painted and fitted... leaving me a HUGE bill for genuine FPV panels! W T F I will never buy another Ford or FPV or anything even affiliated in my lifetime!

That is certainly not normal. Surely you feel it when you are seated in the drivers seat?

Don't worry about that; I have been heard and I am on top of them day by day now.. I just haven't lost my cool or abused them, yet. I don't think things will improve if I do, how could this be fixed? I was already told to calm down god knows how many times on the phone by Ford Cust. Service and RACV LOL. Innocence is a great facade I guess

I may have been saying "farrrrrrk"I was sort of in a blurry/disorientated state of anger when I seen the outcome yet again, but there was a few of their repair guys standing about gawking at the lack of QC & consistency from Ford & FPV.. It is demoralizing to have them all group around each time I go back as they crowd around only to see it still doesn't fit, then chuckle away at how pathetic this situation is! Lovely, FPV.

Yes, it was 'repaired' under insurance. The person who scratched it made a claim. We are both with RACV, who said just to deal with the panel shop and they would only come to the table if the panel shop is unwilling to help. Sadly, they seem willing to help, but cant; so RACV don't see it in their position to help in this situation.