bigmat

I am wanting to use my ba xr6 turbo (the gt3582r) on a smaller engine but I would like it to spool quicker because of the capacity of of the engine. To achieve this I want to put a smaller AR Turbine housing on the same turbo and if possible still use the original turbine wheel diameter. Has anyone else tried this?

I am about to try NGK IFR6F-7D Laser Iridium gapped to 0.81 at 10 psi boost... stay tuned....if these are crap or not, unless someone else knows already... Cheers

Just did mine today but fitted the 400 LPH Walbro pump inside the standard bucket Because it is that much bigger it was a bit of a mission reshaping the bucket removing all the ribbing around the return pipes for the filter, I then in the end put the standard filter back on the walbro pump with the clips removed. The one that came with the 400 lph pump just wouldnt fit inside the canister. I think if I do it again I will just buy a 400 LPH pump and larger canister, will see how this one performs. (Im watching AFR closely).. The BF had the bayonet clip in fittings instead of the screws and also just cut the factory wires off at the pump ends and soldered the spade terminals on directly to these wires, grey to +ve black to -ve no problems. , did the 360 loop in the fuel line so plenty of movement there actually better movement now than factory one... the fuel lines strangely enough only had a in and out no line for a carbon canister return,... found those clips easy to undo just light pressure with tiny screwdriver in the end next to the white pipe across three of the sides came awat easy as. and positve clip back on. .

I like Conquer But then I am Biased.

My Avatar. Also Have BIGMAT in the shed..

Just fitted X Force 4" Turbo Back onto 5" CAT 100 CPI then 3.5" all way to rear muffler with twin 3" outlets. Boost is up maybe better get the tune done really soon, but still waiting for the turbo mod to be finished first. I think might be doing some damage as turbo boost goes off the clock... Drone Not really. At 100km in 6th Cruising it 's as quite as a mouse, but through the gears on on the gas it sounds like a wounded Ferrari, I love it...

Well I just had mine done on my 07 Rspec BF (Ford haven't fixed the problem with the BF either), worst part the Ford dealer are trying to charge me $600 labour and $450 parts plus also found the passenger side wheel bearing was loose, Ford Mechanic said the axle lock nut had never been tightened properly from new. this was another $131 in parts and another $100 labour, I have been complaining about this noise in the diff for the last 3 years the dealer has never picked up what the problem was. I am bringing this up with Ford NZ if I have no luck with the dealer taking some responsibility for this whilst the car was under warranty.. (funny how they can find it outside of warranty).

Can anybody provide details of clearances for the PBR premium rears on the BF Typhoon? Cheers

Can anybody help Please? Thanks in advance.

Can someone help me please. I am stuck I have done my back (prolapsed disc) in so can't do this myself, But need some Caliper measurements of standard Typhoon Brembo 4 Pot brakes and the PBR Rears, can someone please help. The Idea is to get some custom wheels made for my car, they will take 6 weeks to deliver from overseas but I need some info before I give them the go ahead to build the wheels.. If you can provide the measurements as per from this picture A, B & C for the 4 pot Brembo front and same A, B & C for PBR Premium rear brakes for a BF Typhoon. Thanks in Advance..Mat

43PSI cold Running Maxxis Victra MA-Z1 245/35/19's so far 15000km and still have shoulders first of these Maxxis lasted 10,000ks on 36 PSI so much for the UTQG of 380 AAA Dunlop Sportmaxx lasted 14000ks at 36 PSI especially when they had a UTQG of 240 AAA

I wonder what the variations in the F6 and R spec has on the spring and dampener rates as well as roll centres etc. I know when driving an FG turbo XR with same rubber thesure don'tnt corner the same. I can really push my F6 and yet takes lots to induce oversteer, but never really feels like understeer. I must admit dunlop sportmaxx original tyres seemed to do a little better but often can see a black trail from the rears (based on attitude of the car) when hammering it out of a tight corner, With a 60 km gorge to get through from here to go north it gets boring if you don't push it. Makes me a better driver that's what I tell my wife. Tyre wear was very even on the dunlops running 36PSI (got 14,000k but the Maxxis Victra Z series were chewing shoulders inside and out got 10,000k on first set until I started running 43PSI cold...15000k and counting. But yeah back on topic, I wonder what the spring rates and dampening are (where to start to understand if I could even make it any better). could be the geometry too as there looks like a lot more camber than standard XR6Ts. Reason I ask is I want to put bigger rubber on but don't want to turn it into a understeering pig that falls over it's front tyres... and if I go wider greater offset (outward to 22P on 9.5 wide rims) I will probably have to increase the camber more just to make them fit under the guards.. if I run 275+ rubber on back especially. All your views are welcome

the 45P on the front as you can see needed 4mm plus spacers, even had to rotate the rubber dust cover on the brembo bleed valve to stop it rubbing on those Stance doesn't look too bad just got to drop it a bit....Lot

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/gallery/album/43-f6-play/ I think from memory these where +0 offset 18x11.5 235 tyres (first pics) and if I could get rid of the suspension hardware these 315s would almost fit too...Not These are 19x8.5 45P on front running 245/35/19 Dunlops worn and 19 x 9.5 35P on rear also running 245/35/19 Dunlops worn

In NZ we can't pass 6 monthly Warrant of Fitness checks with spacers that are not fixed direct to the hub (bolted)or certified . so I,m not keen, I looked at the Axis Hiro's Now that's Rice...