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Sedan Fuel Pump Install How To

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Well I decided it was about time to have a go at installing my Walbro GSS340 intank fuel pump.

Sorry If some of these pictures are a bit crappy they were taken from my phone

before starting this make sure there is the lowest amount of fuel in the tank.

Materials you will need:

Gates 5/16 Submersable fuel hose. I paid $40 from Autobarn.

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2x9mm EFI Hose clamps (make sure you get the EFI clamps because regular clamps can grab in and break the hose) I got these from Repco for $2 each.

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To start with I found the fuel fuse in the engine bay fuse box, it is a 20amp fuse

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To locate the pump you need to pull out the bottom section of the back seat. to do this you need to grab the seat at the front and pull up, you will feel where the seat is held down. pull up at these points and the seat should pull away from its position.

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After you get the seat out you will see where the pump is located

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remove the black cover to reveal the fuel line connections and the top of the pump cradle.

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More to follow......

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unplug the wiring connection that goes to the top of the cradle and disconnect the fuel lines. these are a bit of a pain in the a$$, you have to push the connection towards the cradle while squeezing the tabs on the sides then pull back in the other direction. it took me a few goes of swearing but I finally got them off.

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after removing the fuel lines, undo the 6 phillips head screws and remove the black metal ring holding down the cadle.

Grab the top of the cradle and gentle pull up. There is a wire that is connected from the fuel tank, disconnect that and you should be able to remove the cradle from the car. be carefull, the cradle will have some fuel still in it.

now that you have it all out drain the fuel that is left in the cradle out so it's easier to work with.

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disconnect the wire that connects the top of the cradle to the fuel pump at both ends. this is the wire you will have to cut and join to the new Walbro loom

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you will see two tabs on each side of the cradle. push these in so it seperates. you will see two fuel lines in the cradle, one from the pump and another for the return line, you need to push where the return line connects to to the side so you can seperate the cradle.

I didnt get any pictures of this so I hope I explained it well enough.

When you seperate the cradle the standard fuel pump and filter should still be connected to the top half of the cradle.

To remove the corrigated fuel line I had to cut if off because it was quite hard to pull it off.

Undo 2 clips that hold the filter and pump at the bottom and the pump should come out free.

Now you have to install the new Walbro pump.

Attached the supplied Walbro filter the the bottom of the pump.

Then place the new pump and filter in the bottom half of the cradle

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reassemble the cradle

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now you have to join the ford wiring to the supplied Walbro wiring loom. I have seen this done with crimps/connectors but I soldered and heat shrinked mine

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Now you have to cut the fuel line, it has to be about 70-80mm long so the cradle sits on the bottom of the tank. you may want to test fit it into the car to make sure it fits all good.

connect to the top of the cradle and fuel pump and secure with the EFI hose clamps.

also reconnect the wiring.

should hopefully look like this when you are done.

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now re-installed cradle back into the tank, connect fuel lines, electrical plugs, fuse and test that the pump primes and then the car starts.

If all is good then put the back seat back in and you are done!

:buttrock:

Edited by XAH03

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just a quick question, not worth starting a new thread about, but,

When do you normally need to upgrade fuel pump, is it a certain amount of rwkw? or when you put bigger injectors in?

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Is that rubber line that you used a proper submersible fuel line or just a regular fuel line hose?

if you squint you can kinda see the "submersible fuel line" on the packet in the photo...

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thanks guys. I did a search on here for a few days before I attempted doing it to try and get some pointers but couldnt really find much

so I thought I'd take some photos as I went and make one up.

Is that rubber line that you used a proper submersible fuel line or just a regular fuel line hose?

Yeah its Gates submersable EFI line, the photo is a bit crappy. I was told you can only get it in as low as 30cm lengths so if you know anyone who wants to do their pump as well then just go halfs in the cost of the hose and split it because you only need about 70-80mm.

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thanks guys. I did a search on here for a few days before I attempted doing it to try and get some pointers but couldnt really find much

so I thought I'd take some photos as I went and make one up.

Yeah its Gates submersable EFI line, the photo is a bit crappy. I was told you can only get it in as low as 30cm lengths so if you know anyone who wants to do their pump as well then just go halfs in the cost of the hose and split it because you only need about 70-80mm.

Great job mate! Just a quick question....how much fuel did you have in the tank when you did this? I currently have half a tank of fuel and was wondering if I should run it all the way down to empty before attempting?

Edited by AIRMONxXR

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Great job mate! Just a quick question....how much fuel did you have in the tank when you did this? I currently have half a tank of fuel and was wondering if I should run it all the way down to empty before attempting?

It had about 30km's left on the distance to empty display on the dash. run it down to about a needle width off the empty line and it should be right.

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Does that interior area with the soldered wires become flooded with fuel??

I'm thinking of soldering too, but I don't think the heatshrink would be rated for fuel

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Does that interior area with the soldered wires become flooded with fuel??

I'm thinking of soldering too, but I don't think the heatshrink would be rated for fuel

any one got an answer to this?

as im doing my fuel pump today

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I think I see dust particles gathering on the factory original submersible fuel line, which indicates it's not flooded, but vapours will gather inevitably. This might explain the need for 'submersible' fuel line, as vapours are as harsh as liquid fuel (I think).

So perhaps the test is to fill a jar of petrol and hang a bit of heatshrink above it, enclosed with a lid?

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great write up but how much fuel came out when you cracked the fuel lines ive been thinking im gonna pull the fuel fuse while the car is at idle and let it run out of fuel to avoid some of the mess

anyone else done this ?

cheers trev

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great write up but how much fuel came out when you cracked the fuel lines ive been thinking im gonna pull the fuel fuse while the car is at idle and let it run out of fuel to avoid some of the mess

anyone else done this ?

cheers trev

Hey Trev,

I have done this. I pulled the fuse when the car was at idle. I then gave it a few minutes and turned it over (with the fuse off), the engine started and stalled again. I had just under 1/4 tank of fuel and the range was 139Ks. Just watch out for the sender wire when you disconnect them, they seem to head straight to the bottom of the tank!

There was just a trickle from the lines when I did mine this way. No mess.

Cheers,

AJ

Edited by Phooned

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cheers phooned

my fuel pump is in isnt really that bad a job to do yourself besides un doing thoses f*cking fuel lines of which I broke two of the little clips off on the return line still holds the hose on but that *beep* never coming off again without the little clips on the side to push forward for removel :dontknow:

checked for leaks pulled on all of them and everything is fine with the car running befor putting the back seat back in

cheers trev

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Update: Fuel has become green from the green heatshrink, but not as badly as I would have thought. Heatshrink is still intact; very slow degrading when submerged.

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fuel rated heat shrink ( neoprene ) costs a crap load of money ive used it in the past at work a few times to seal connectors its about 300 or 400 bucks for each boot about the size of small coke bottle

I just used the crimps that came with the pump or you can buy them from jcar, dicksmith or if you really want to go overboard 3m electrical make some stuff as well but I really wouldnt be that worried about it as long as what ever ou use stops a dead short from happening

after all the pump sits in fuel and the conector on the end of the fuel pump isnt sealed

cheers trev

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