4ST-XR6

I get about 17L/100 around town but it gets a hard time

Iv seen good results with the dba slotted rotors and green stuff pads, the slots help with the initial brake application as they disperse brake dust from the rotor, when the rotors covered in dust it gives it a low co-efficient of friction and wont work as well. Plus they don't tend to warp as easy as the factory ones. Trans oil cooler would be a worthy investment even just for peace of mind for the trans. Swar bar would be a good idea. And as stated the plugs and stuff will be fine.

There are three lines on the factory BOV as there would be on any plumb back bov. The line from the manifold to the BOV (pressure) , the vac/boost signal (the small line) and the vent line (the line that runs from the bov back into the intake duct.) The BOV keeps keep the car quiet on gear change(manual car) and when the throttle is released( manual and auto car) and also helps improve fuel consumption. The factory BOV allows air to pass through it when the car is at cruise and there is vacum applied to the BOV piston. The allows the engine to draw air in through the bov rather than through the turbo.This also allows for a slightly quicker spool up of the turbo once the throttle is open because the engine already has a small supply of air entering through the BOV that helps provide extra exhaust gas to get the turbo spinning. Im not sure with the design of the turbo on these cars and the super low boost they run from the factory that the BOV is meant to provide protection for turbo longevity. About your question about the emission side of things. dont forget there is a t-map sensor as well as boost sensor located under the rh head light in the intake ducting. I would assume the car knows what pressure it has before and after the throttle butterfly and is able to control emssions because of that. Im not 100% sure though ← You have me thinking harder now, I will try spend some time in the workshop manual today and suss it out, ford is pretty cagey about this kind of stuff though. haha

I wasn't goin to do the injectors here and run factory pragramming, I through the idea around to see it was possible to air bag the box down and paul could put a rough tune in it for injectors, springs and fuel pump. I then I could do the injectors, springs and pump and work, cause being a dealer we have the tools, the drive down when the box came back for a custome fine tune. But paul advised against it. so I think I'm just gonna have to be happy with a edit in the mean time cause being a mechanic its hard to justify handing over the dosh for someone else to do the other mods. thanks again for your input guys cheers

This backs up the arguement that the BOV isn't designed for longevity of the turbo.Please correct me If im wrong. From memory, the BOV on the xr6T is indeed plumbed back into the intake stream before the throttle butterfly, so when the pressure rises in the intake stream after the butterfly closes the pressure in vented through the BOV and back into the intake pipe. There are two lines off the BOV on the xr6t, I imagine the smaller one that goes to the manifold serves a similar function to the vac line on the fuel pressure reg, in that under wot when the pressure in the manifold is positive, and hence requires greater pressure on the opposing side of the diaphragm ( the intake pipe before the butterfly) and the larger line of the two is the passage the air takes back to the intake pipe. And if the BOV is for emission purposes, can you please explain this to me: On closed throttle, the excess boost is vented, in the case of the falcon which has a T-MAP sensor, Temperature and manifold absolute pressure sensor is on the opposite side of the butterfly in the intake manifold, and hence wont measure the exra air from the turbo due to the throttle butterfly being closed. So I supose what I'm trying to say is in terms of a falcon with the T-MAP sensor what is the purpose of the BOV?, if it isn't for the turbo longevity as staged or for the Emission reason theory of mine then why is it there Like is said please correct me if im wrong, and please pm your answers to me, Its got me thinking now and I won't be able to sleep. haha cheers Mic

The edit can void your warranty, but so can an cat back exhaust, we had a ford rep from melbourne a couple of months back and a customer car came in with a cat back system, he had asked if the vehicle had been black flagged, when he was told it hadn't he made it quite clear he wanted that to change, If depends heavily on the dealer though, some are tight and some aren't, If your going to modify then be prepared to foot the bill when you see a big "powertrain warranty void" of "driveline warranty void" etc. Remember when you strengthen one aspect of your car then the weakpoint changes, hence if you upgrade your clutch and don't take car of the car, by by t5 or diff and so on.

I have already rang and spoke to paul, he said I could fit the injectors down there myself cause he didn't want me forking out a heap of dosh in fuel cause its a six hour drive, so I will drive down unflashed, still tossing up whether to do the springs and injectors right now, Ive only had the car a week.

Thanks guys, I was contemplating getting a custone tune anyway, the box will be here tomorrow, so hopefully down to the dyno at during my lunch break, I wasn't goin to flash the car until I get them to check the AFR's anyway to be safe. I'm thinking of either Romano motorsport of elite automotive in brisbane for my custom tune, a mate (86Gav) has had a custom edit done at romano's and I went from 185rwkw to 255rwkw and it was good, the only thing was I had to gap the plugs down further then what they did for him, as it had a missfire under high boost conditions, it pulls like a freight train now so hes happy. Thanks again lads, I will post my figures, afr's etc, when I get them, the only problem is there is only one dyno shop where I live and being a mechanic I heard some bad stories about the place I'm goin to, Mite be better to dive the car in stock trim to brisbane and get a run on the dyno and afr's checked and get the custom edit don't straight away.

A mate of mine had the same problem, he bought a xr8 that came with a flash tuner with no manual, we tried to put the tune in and the car wouldn't start, cause I work for ford everytime you do a flash with the pds or wds the ignition has to be turned on (position 11)for the diagnostic tool to communicate with the vehicle, tried flash the car with the igniton in position 1, and it worked no worries. I thought that was strange but that's how it is.

My dealer made it perfectly clear what would happen if our employees off loaded cars for profit.

I scored a brand new herrod flash tuner from work cause we stock them, it was for a BA XR8 auto, It was a bargain considering it was brand new and I got it $575. Work has sent it to Herrod motorsport in melbourne to get recalibrated for my 2002 BA XR6T, and they are doing it for free, I was think about getting a 6psi economy tune, a 8psi 95RON tune and 10psi 98RON tune as we don't have bp ultimate, just that shell V power. I'm just curious as to whether anyone has used the boxes tuned by herrod. I spoke to Rob Herrod and said I wanted to go to brisbane for a custom tune, as brisbane is the closest place to home were there are any good tuners (still six hours drive mind you). Accept Rob reckons the tune box is "pretty well on the money" as he put it. What kind of rwkw figures and 1/4 mile times are you guys getting from the herrod tuned boxes with only the edit, typhoon 2nd cold air intake and centre muffler removed? I get the box back tuesday so should be on the dyno the following weekend so I will post my results Cheers

I saved my old man approx 10k on a xr6t before I bought mine. A friend of mine wanted me to do the same for him, like what has been stated you have to have the car for 11 months, but I imagine the dealer would get royally pissed if you start off loading cars every 11 months for mates or the sake of making $$$

Disregard that last post, I'm was on another planet lol, thinking of the exhaust on the N/A six engine. The turbo one is a but more tricky

Small flat balde screwdriver and a 1/4" drive rachet and 10mm socket. Will save you headaches, spend the extra 2 mins and put the whole car up on stands so you can lie under the car parallel to the exhaust, it will take you 10mins. hopefully this gives you some incentive knowing its easier, its worth it.

I havent seen the zf fail yet since they have been in the falcon, and Im working on them every day. My uncle owns a separate business and is an auto specialist, he has rebuilt a few since im pretty sure they have been in the bmw's for a few years, however the issues my unlce has come across I have never seen. one thing we do agree on is ford reckons the oil and filter (which is integrated into the sump) apparantly never requires changing. Being a mechanic, that sends alarm bells ringing, and the trans is extremely sensitive to incorrect fluid levels, to check properly is is required to monitor the trans fluid temp sensor and check it at 39-40 degrees, which poses an issue as the fluids operating temp is alot higher, then there is a precise sequence to shift gears, bla bla bla. Bottom line I hope this isn't a sign, bloody great trans to drive though.

Go the xr6t if you can afford it, and by afford it I don't mean afford the repayments, you need to be able to make the repayments, insure it and look after it and have some cash on the side to still have a life. If you do, go do some track days and expreriment on the track in a controled environment where innocent people wont get hurt. Cause I was stupid when I first got my license. Ive only just got my opens last week and insurance for a t is a drama for me, I rang just cars and they laughed at me, but racq would insure me for $1600. I had a liscence suspension after a year of having my p's and lost my license for 6 months. 8 points and $700 hurt cause I was a second year apprentice. But ultimately its up to you. cheers

Another thing that causes a bad exhaust rattle, is the stainless brackets that are welded to the engine pipe, these brackes are what the bolts of the heatshield go through, the weld tends to break all the time and its usually the front most one, my guess is ford has dramas getting good penetration with the weld due to the bracket being stainless the engine pipe after the cat being mild steele, you don't have to remove the heatshield to check, just wiggle the bols for the heatshield and if it moves it has cracked and broken, take her to and exhaust shop and get the bracket welded back on. hope this helps cheers

There was a performance ford mag a while ago called "The forced induction handbook" It was a compilation of small articles that were published in many high performance imports magazine. They bought a series one ba xr6t ute and modified it, this was before the tune flash tuners were around so a piggy back system was used, and various mods were done. They removed the centre muffler and replace with a straight thhrough piece of pipe, with a gain of approx 10-15kw as previously stated, and when tested still came under the the max legal db reading so there is no reason not do this mod, its cheap, effective and according to the magazine legal.

That diaphragm I think you are referring to is for the series of butterfly's in the intake manifold, it makes the runners longer at low revs for more torque and shorter in high revs for more power, the turbos don't have it, its only on N/A falcons

86GAV and I made a trip to bunnings 2hrs before a test and tune a couple of months ago and for under 15 bucks whipped one up, it was incredibly rough, disconnecting the washer squirters and used the pump for them on the cooler, we had a incredible good design before hand but knocked that set-up in a few minutes. It was hilarious being in the passenger seat watching him pull the squirter stalk and swap cogs at the same time...I think I actually wet myself. This isn't an idea for a good design, just thought you all would have a chuckle. cheers

From memory the increased exhaust diameter and hence decreased backpressure causes the standard calibration in the pcm (powertrain control module) to see and overboost situation and back the boost pressure off. I saw a Turbo ute and at a shop in town on the dyno, made 181rwkw with standard exhaust, then 199rwkw with his new system on the first run, then every run for the next 3 runs the rwkw figure dropped my 10kw each time until I told them what was goin on. Moral of the story like already stated, get your flash box and custom tune straight up, a friend of mine went from 187rwkw to 252rwkw with no extra mods, and if its manual, I would be upgrading the clutch next cause the standard one doesn't like the extra newtons cheers

M6 XR6T I think is onto it, hes not affraid to put his money where his mouth is and is doing good things, hes being modest with the boost levels, after all isn't the secret keeping the boost down, I think this was touched on earlier in the post. It was stated that good gains woud be made with a cooler etc, but why do that when it sounds like a turbo modification was on the card anyway, alteast now the cooler and piping etc can be match for this new turbo with even greater gains to be had. I joined this site cause I was told it was a forum for xr6t enthusiest, no a "my d@#k is bigger then yours". Everyone is learning from others experiences but there is no reason to be harsh about it.

Everytime the head is removed ie, doing a headgasket, the head is measured and most of the time decked to ensure a good surface for reassebly, Ive never seen a head warped that bad that required a massive amount to be removed and hence increasing the compression ratio to a point that causes a severe ping, for this to happen, the tune must have been running pretty close to the border line of pinging anyway. And the hotspots would have been picked up during inspection of the head by the ford dealer, or at latest but the machine shop. All this seems pretty out of character for Romanos as a good mat of mine had his car tuned there and said they tuned it pretty conservative for realiability with still impressive results. The E-series have never liked being chipped and Ive never seen one that has ran well.

Its illegal to use second hand airbags, If you take it back to the dealer you went to the first time, and if he is still pissed at you, he could put an application into ford and void your warrant, If he hasn't already. You would have been much safer pulling your interior out and swapping the covers over, its not a hard job. An then no more dramas with the SRS.