4ST-XR6

If anyone is contemplating power cruise next year, stop contemplating and sign you form for annual leave right now, whether your competing or spectating, bring a tent, a bbq, mates and bulk piss. you just gotta find creative ways to smuggle in your alcohol, saw many a guys infront of us in the line up get all their drinks thrown out.

could be upper shock bolts, just require to loosening and retension, rear sway bar drop link bushes, and the bushes tend to flog out, also rear lower front control arm has problems sometimes with the outter ball joint having excessive lateral movement, your dealer can test easily and if they have dramas, find another one.

The problem wont happen again once done, the only ones that had a reoccuring concern are ones fitted with the old style bush the second time. You will require a new cover plate for the diff as already stated, Its not that bad of a job, with a hoist, and a gearbox jack, you can do it in just over 4 hours if you push it but the standard repair time is greater and the dealer will generally need it for a whole day, but there is a special service tool, which consists of two alignment pins to realign the rear subframe upon reassembly, If you had those and marked the center bearing bracket for the tailshaft to the body, and the orientation of the drive shaft to the pinion. you wont have anything to worry about, but I always throw it on the wheel aligner just incase to check the tow and camber (If you have adjustment for the camber). and If you get it wrong you will require a driveling balance and previously stated. While you have the subframe and hub assembly out, check the inner CV joints on the axles, for radial movement as this causes a clunk in the driveline also, if they have any more than 1.5mm movement from a distance of 50mm from the centerline of the axle they require replacing, with new ones having zero movement, and a new revised part is available. But unless you or the other diff specialist you were thinking about can make up your own alignment pins for the subframe take it to ford mate.

PM me to let me know how it goes

Remove the black cover over the coils, firstly disconnect the two wiring connectors from the OCV, sensors for the VCT, if It idles better with then unplugged, then swap them over. Its possible that when your tuner has had a fiddle he has connected them incorrectly, the way the standard harness lies means it should be obvious to which one goes where but if he hasn't marked them then it could be the problem. When the sensors are disconnected the pcm doesn't operate the VCT in a closed loop fashion and sustitutes values from the datalogger and hence will run better. If they have been put on backwards, you ford dealer will be able to tell because the PCM will log codes for intake cam too far advance, intake cam too far retard, exhaust cam too far advance, exhaust cam too far retard which is impossible. another option is the cams have put in backwards, but Ive never seen it happen and don't know how bad a reaction it will give. but definitely try the plugs for the OCV's

A TSB is present on the clunk issue which has been around for a fair while but has been revised twice from memory, If you have warranty, like previously stated take it to your dealer, but the primary and most likely causes being easy to fix so If you have run out of warrantly Pm me and I will tell you how to fix it. its easy. It might take me while to learn how to use the pm function and the like cause as you can see im a new member.

Cam timing issue, possible but highly unlikely, and If it was a cam timing issue then it would be a VCT issue, and that normally logs a fault code and can be checked easily via the datalogger using the PDS (ford diagnostic tool). The most common cause of limp home mode is a faulty TPS (throttle position sensor) which almost every time logs a code P1270, and P2110. Ford has recognised this and has a new revised TPS. I cant remember the date after they changed to the new TPS but I will find out, the old and new can be distinguished with the old style having a dimple the sensor about as big as the tip of your finger and the new style not having the previously mentioned feature. As for the bang, could be a fuel issue, has your vehicle been modified? from memory there is the ability to change paramerters for fuel which is a swithed calibration type set-up, one setting tells the PCM to use calibration x and the other set-up tells it to use cal y, with more accurate adjusments being made for each, but I think that was on models from BA late 02 to 04. I will find out for sure on monday. If a backfire was the issue, depending on how severe, the MAP sensor is sometimes damaged, which again logs a fault code, and can be monitored with the datalogger. hope this helps. I apologise for being unsure in some respects, I will find out.