December 21, 20196 yr #11 Author On 07/12/2019 at 8:57 PM, k31th said: if you want to bypass the boost control solenoid, you just take the pipe that goes from the nipple at the front of the turbocharger and then connect it to the nipple on the wastegate actuator. I removed the pipe from the nipple at the front of the turbo charger and connected it to the westgate actuator. Is this correct?
December 21, 20196 yr #12 a single pipe should connect the nipple on the turbocharger to the nipple on the wastegate actuator, so if you've done this then yes, that's the way to get it to minimum boost at the slowest ramp rate.
December 22, 20196 yr #13 Author I find it odd that the car preforms worse now. that's why I questioned if I done it correctly.
December 22, 20196 yr #14 the tune may not like this situation... but if you mean "perform worse" by it's slower and doesn't feel as fast then of course that'll happen when you go back to minimum boost with the slowest ramp rate.
December 22, 20196 yr #15 5 hours ago, DavidF said: I removed the pipe from the nipple at the front of the turbo charger and connected it to the westgate actuator. Is this correct? No. See Keiths post. "A single pipe should connect the nipple on the turbocharger to the nipple on the wastegate actuator"
December 22, 20196 yr #16 Author Completed this and the car did not fault. But I have also noticed that the car did not fault when the A/C was on. Switch the A/C off and the car faulted. Also noticed that then the car was being driven at a constant cruising speed that it sounded like the turbo was kicking in and the car going faster then cut out and cut back in again. This has only happened once. Not sure if these are related or other problems. Edited December 22, 20196 yr by DavidF
December 22, 20196 yr #17 Author 7 hours ago, DavidF said: Wanted to edit my last post as it was not clear. Unable to do so. Too sum up.... Purchased a 2007 territory and do not know who the tuner is or what exactly has been done to the car. Under heavy acceleration in 1st gear and just before the 2nd gear change the car would splatter and lose power and it felt like it had run out of fuel. This splatter and loss of power did not take place while the A/C was on. While driving at a constant speed I noticed that the car would slightly go faster and then pull back. This going faster and pulling back happened a few times within 30 sec and this problem has only happened once. As advised by k31th I bypassed the boost control solenoid and this stopped the car from splattering and losing power between 1st and 2nd gear change. Thanks for your input and help. What would you suggest my next step me?
December 22, 20196 yr #18 take it to a dyno tuner; have a look in the state-forum "recommended" places and ring around to the places that sound interesting enough, get a feel for who you'd like to take it to based on quotes etc and get it actually tuned or run-up and put to completely stock setup. or just get it run up on a dyno to anybody nearby with a dyno and see if it's running correctly in terms of the tune.
July 12, 20206 yr #19 Author Just removed the turbo and the actuator is moving freely. I am unsure how to test the actuator for faults. All the exhaust bolts and the manifold bolts to the turbo housing were all loose but was not able to hear exhaust leaks under the hood. Not sure if this has a effect over boosting.
July 12, 20206 yr #20 unlikely to overboost with leaking exhaust you test the actuator by applying pressure to it on the rated level and the actuator should move to fully open at it's rated pressure.
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