timing cover removal

[k31th]

Bugger on the tensioner failure... Cheap just doesn't cut it, sometimes.

[arronm]

ONLY use GENUINE timing gear.... The whole kit here. Tone wheel/sprocket wont slide off if the crank nose has burrs.  

 

Everyone forgets the tensioner / idler pully bolt runs all the way through.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-FORD-4-0-BARRA-TIMING-CHAIN-SET-BA-BF-FG-FGX-FALCON-SX-SY-SZ-TERRITORY/292021574011?epid=11006503344&hash=item43fdd7997b:g:cvIAAOSw5cNYmRMB

 

tone wheel.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-FORD-BA-BF-FG-FGX-FALCON-SX-SY-SZ-TERRITORY-4-0-FRONT-CRANK-SPROCKET/302171399336?epid=2112171161&hash=item465ad1a4a8:g:TsgAAOSwnHZYWI8p

Edited 12/06/18 09:55 AM by arronm

[fgxrsux]

I didnt do it, the previous owner replaced the timing, the it started rattling so he sold it (to me). I think the original ford chain was stretched hence the replacement, but I have the original ford runners/guides and tensioner here, im going to put those back in, the original tensioner is fine.

 

its a pretty stupid idea to use these plastic clip guides though, I can see why they break.

 

the brand that was put in was "Nason" kit, I would steer clear of them.

[arronm]

I realise you didnt do it.

 

Make sure the top of the drivers side (factory ) guide looks like this. Its common they break.

 

Edited 12/06/18 10:04 AM by arronm

[Renton]

Re: the torx head bolts at the top. Were you using standard torx bits and not the tamper proof bits with the hole in the middle? Tamper proof bits will have more chance of snapping. But good practice is to give the head of the bolt a good couple of hits with a hammer on the face/head of bolt before undoing it to free up the threads. 

 

Also re sealant. 5900 loctite is pretty good, or greymaxx, blue maxx, blackmaxx etc. Or any other RTV type silicone  by Permatex or the like.

[arronm]

Chain.

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-FORD-BA-BF-FG-FALCON-SX-SY-SZ-TERRITORY-4-0-BARRA-TIMING-CHAIN-OEM-/121459349640

 

Wont break if you use half decent quality tools. 7 bucks. 21 Nm.

 

http://search.supercheapauto.com.au/super/T40-Torx-Bit

Edited 12/06/18 10:20 AM by arronm

[arronm]

Engine REPAIR manual here.

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11mncdsEQkknv6A_7-Lv38T5UzS_GYros/view?usp=sharing

[fgxrsux]

! wish I started with that lol. cheers

 

34 minutes ago, Renton said:

Re: the torx head bolts at the top. Were you using standard torx bits and not the tamper proof bits with the hole in the middle? Tamper proof bits will have more chance of snapping. But good practice is to give the head of the bolt a good couple of hits with a hammer on the face/head of bolt before undoing it to free up the threads. 

 

Also re sealant. 5900 loctite is pretty good, or greymaxx, blue maxx, blackmaxx etc. Or any other RTV type silicone  by Permatex or the like.

yep I used the ones with the hole and it snapped so I bought solid ones, thanks for the info on the sealant

[arronm]

Are you aware it appears you have these. Might be a good time to return to STOCK.

 

 

 

Additional info.

Edited 12/06/18 10:52 AM by arronm

[fgxrsux]

I wasn't aware that the cam sprockets were aftermarket, only the chain, guides, tensioner. I don't have any other sprockets, they seem to be ok though