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ok so 6 links is not quite 12 o'clock and 12 o'clock then.. for tdc dont I just rotate the crank until the timing mark on the lower sprocket lines up at 6?

your photo. as for mine I need to take the timing cover off again tomorrow, move the crank to 6 and then take the chain off and move both cams to 12

maybe its just the angle but they took like they are at 12 and 11?

it seems to lock them in so tight it threads them

yeah I got it, I assumed the noise was from the broken guide and tensioner but it looks like the left cam is wayyy out. thanks

its not the best, the manul is designed for ford, I guess they didnt expect to change a full chain under warranty. it shows how to do the tensioner etc but no complete guide for doing it all. one thing I saw though is that ford use loctite 5900...and that made me thread and snap several bolts. I don't think I will get another ford aftermarket chain, no coloured links on it, but as long as the timing lines up im good

thanks, 12 for the top dots 6 for the crank

quick question I hope someone can help I have these adjustable cam sprockets in the car and I did not put them there, I am just trying to fix the thing. it has a tapping noise, increases with rotation, I have determined that the timing jumped when it broke a tensioner. because these sprockets are not oem I was wondering if someone can confirm the timing marks? do I go off the line between retard/advance or do I go off the little drilled spot on the top of the sprocket? going off the little drill mark/spot it looks like the left cam is about 5 teeth out to the left while the right cam is at 12 o'clock? any help will be appreciated, cheers

redid the timing, same problem. now I realise I must be out 1 tooth on 1 of the cams...are there any guides on how to reset the timing so I don't f--- this up again? I don't know which is out

timing was fine before I started, just had the broken guide and tensioner, I replaced those that's it.

didn't move the chain at all. had the cams pinned the whole time. I assume if it was a tooth out I would hit a valve and it wouldnt go?

I put it back together, drives great, smooth power but is shaking at idle, sounds like my diesel hilux, any ideas?

I wasn't aware that the cam sprockets were aftermarket, only the chain, guides, tensioner. I don't have any other sprockets, they seem to be ok though

! wish I started with that lol. cheers yep I used the ones with the hole and it snapped so I bought solid ones, thanks for the info on the sealant

I didnt do it, the previous owner replaced the timing, the it started rattling so he sold it (to me). I think the original ford chain was stretched hence the replacement, but I have the original ford runners/guides and tensioner here, im going to put those back in, the original tensioner is fine. its a pretty stupid idea to use these plastic clip guides though, I can see why they break. the brand that was put in was "Nason" kit, I would steer clear of them.

thanks for the tips, I couldnt see a bolt in the crank sprocket, thought it was odd. as for the chain, I cable tied the cams to the chain and cable tied the right side to the guide so it shouldnt move, whats the best sealant recommended? broken runner collapsed tensioner (less that 12 months old)

yeah the crank sprocket, how do I get that off? im at the point where I hope I can remember to put it all back together and have no left over bolts

the guides that the chain runs on

thanks. I actually worked it out just before reading this. it turns out that the runner is stuffed and the new tensioner is to, it has collapsed. do you know how to remove the bottom gear so I can get the left hand runner out? ive run out of daylight now, I just cable tied the chain in place so I can do the runner and tensioner

does anyone know if the water pump and alternator need to come off to remove the timing cover? I bought this fg with a little rattle, previous owner said he did the timing chain in it and when I pulled the rocker cover the new chinese plastic guides were broken and the chain is slapping around though it hasnt skipped. ive undone all of the long front bolts on the timing cover and 4 going up from the sump, I can move the top of the case by levering off the block but it seems to be stuck around the water pump, do I need to remove the water pump and alternator to get this case off? also I'd like to thank the genius at ford that thought using 2 T40 torx bolts at the top of the cover was a great idea, its great for snapping torx bits, oh and also a big thankyou to the mongrel that thought it would be a good idea to make everyone use a special $200 tool to pull the harmonic balance off...just a warning to others, if you need to do a chain in these engines, its cheaper to drop in a new engine