June 19, 201610 yr #1 I'm fitting a GTX3582R (Supercore) to my G6ET and noticed the standard (3576r) wastegate actuator bracket doesn't line up on the GTX. What has everyone done to get around this? Slot the holes on the standard bracket? Or does somewhere sell a bracket that fits? Thankyou.
June 19, 201610 yr #2 Cut and weld. I've never seen one line up very well without some modifying. Others may have a better solution though.
June 19, 201610 yr #3 I cut the bracket and off the retainer and move it so the alignment is correct then tig it back on.I've also found you usually need to cut the bracket on the 90deg bend between the mounting face and the upright and tweak it then reweld to get the alignment bang on.
June 19, 201610 yr #4 Author GAAAY!!! I thought everything was supposed to be a straight swap over :( I think I can make it fit by drilling a new (middle) hole in the bracket and elongating another a little and using an angled actuator rod I have here... Does anyone happen to have pics of their modded bracket, please Thanks for the replies.
June 19, 201610 yr #5 Cut n re weld is the best practice but yes I've seen half decent re drill jobs of the retaining bracket most people have a drill and bits not many have a welder and some skill but if thinking ahead you can buy an aftermarket bracket from the place you bought the turbo from any way you go about it just get it lined up straight and preload set correctly
June 19, 201610 yr #6 Author 1 minute ago, JETURBO said: Cut n re weld is the best practice but yes I've seen half decent re drill jobs of the retaining bracket most people have a drill and bits not many have a welder and some skill but if thinking ahead you can buy an aftermarket bracket from the place you bought the turbo from any way you go about it just get it lined up straight and preload set correctly Yeah, I've never even attempted to weld anything in my life haha. I have an MTQ not far away so I might go see if they have a bracket that fits tomorrow. The actuator I have has the threaded rod on the back and I have an angled arm that looks like it will line up well (fingers crossed). Is there anything to watch out for when setting preload?? Thankyou
June 19, 201610 yr #7 Setting preload is an art of the tuner but people insist on doing things themselves these days and can cost you a labor charge if you stuff it up and the tuner needs to re set it. but a 1/2 hole preload is a good start but don't go anymore than that
June 23, 201610 yr #9 Author I decided to get MTQ to make the bracket and set the wastegate up etc but they clocked the front housing wrong. I've clocked it so it sits like this now (thankfully there was enough adjustment in the actuator bracket, but obviously I'll have to recheck the preload now) : My question is before I do the final fit and connect everything up...does this position look right for the front housing now? Thankyou Edited June 23, 201610 yr by ***VX*R8***
June 23, 201610 yr #10 Everything is governed by the oil feed/drain water feed/drain holes in the CHRA and that's the first thing u want to make sure all line up spot on then rotate the front housing until it's literally vertically up the outlet ( it needs more counter clockwise rotation by say 5/10* ) then tighten all the bolts up tight on the CHRA and front housing I would be extremely concerned the preload has changed if they set it and that housing was at the 2 oclock mark and the front housing is the locator holes for the actuator bracket .... And this is extremely vital for not giving the tuner issues no trumpet over here but I've got this down to a fine art where things should sit by looking at the housing rotations and CHRA many bugger it up .... Edited June 23, 201610 yr by JETURBO
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