Those heat shield bolts are tight as anything, should I just WD40 ?

I snapped a bolt in the dump so be careful. it came out luckily though.

Yeah, those bolts can be a PITA if they are rusted... Wd-40 will probably do the job if you're careful with the nuts.

Alright so the is the verdict......

1 of the turbo flange to manifold bolts had fallen out at the bottom , the other bottom one came out after two twists with my finger and came with the stud and the nut....

ended up getting them all out studs and all, replaced the flange , replaced the studs and nuts and used a nut locker (turbotrana recommendation- and I thank him for that and info he's given me) ... putting it all back together I noticed a leak from my power steering pipe (the high pressure one) Pretty sure its the O-ring issue , tried tightening but no love.

checking everything else 10 of the 12 exhaust to block bolts were pretty lose and one was missing the bolt , so tightened and replaced the missing one.

This was a bastard of a job , had to go get myself a ratchet spanner kit came in 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm, 17mm.... I thought I could swing the 13mm using my socket set and extension , boy was I wrong! Had to bend a spanner or two as well (not that I mind at least I have the tools for the job, for another time.) Anyway a good 8 hours on the car and 2 hours getting parts and tools, fun times.

She goes SWEET now , 15.5psi to 16(maybe its just a gauge reading change but seems way quicker and responsive as you can imagine... got some vaccum back and no exhaust gurgle on throttle back off.. idles so much nicer, take off is smoother as with gear changes (a lot less hopping and splutter)

There's only one downside, upon test drive and giving it a good go, I noticed a vibration sound coming from the gear box in high revs (maybe its the twin plate clutch?), goes away if say I'm 5000 in 3rd and then I shift it to 4th ... but if I hurt it and then tack my foot off the throttle , its definitely noticeable.. I've got the 6 speed manual and I went with this specifically because I was under the impression these were the best made boxes for the BA's.... or could the box be letting go at 500RWHP even though I'm running a twin plate clutch good for 800hp?

shouldn't have issues with the 'box... the T56 is tough.

Clutch is new? vibration only at high revs?

Exhaust leaks = Cooked Engine mount = vibration. You got you hp and torque back so it's loading up the mount.,

clutch is 1000kms old, so yep its new..... vibration most audible at high revs..

Exhaust leaks = Cooked Engine mount = vibration. You got you hp and torque back so it's loading up the mount.,

Is it a hard fix mate???? might as well get everything sorted over the next week.,...do you mean engine mount or gearbox mount?

I still run a heat shield and I cant see there being that much heat it wrecked the mounts? but I'm only guessing you'd know more than I

Edited 14/08/15 01:34 PM14/08/15 01:34 PM by Bigg_kayz

Who put the clutch setup in. Was it balanced as in clutch and flywheel balanced in a balancing machine. Could it be loose flywheel bolts?

Who put the clutch setup in. Was it balanced as in clutch and flywheel balanced in a balancing machine. Could it be loose flywheel bolts?

im not really sure I didnt own the car at the time

Was the vibration there when you bought it?

yes, but only slightly in 2nd 3rd and 4th (low revs) it could be heard, I assumed it was the gearbox sound they generally make under load, my last couple xr6 did it but only in 2nd n third low revs and not that badly ...

now all the exhaust leaks are fixed and everything is sealed not only can you hear it more but its actually worse and more noticeable when im giving it a hard time