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HI PSI

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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
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  • Member For: 14y 2m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

More of the ride on mower doing skids ?

 

amazing work with the haltech but you must feel a slight bit of rage that you could of now had a haltech installed and tuned in about 5 hrs ! 

 

Definately needs more piks and vids 

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  • Farken yeah nah
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  • Member For: 7y 6m 13d
  • Location: South Australia
6 hours ago, JETURBO said:

Definately needs more piks and vids 

 

Agreed.

 

Definitely film the dash when you head to the drags if you can. There isn't enough of that stuff online as far as turbo falcons go.

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  • Farken yeah nah
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  • Member For: 7y 6m 13d
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No I meant more the rpm and speedo if you can still see them clearly. It gives other falcon owners an idea of how quick the car is cos they have the same or similar dash clusters in their cars. 

 

It'd still be cool to see your digital dash though.

 

Whatever you can manage though mate, I'm sure you've already got plenty to be thinking about with the car.

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  • Member For: 16y 2m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Central Queensland

At this point in time and as we have made considerable changes ( Deleted the factory EMS) over the past six months, I cannot confirm if the factory speedo or tacho actually work. The factory dash will mostly be deleted in the near future to fit the IQ3. If it is still working, I will make a video and post it before I make the alterations. :thumbsup:

Edited by HI PSI
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  • Member For: 14y 3m 27d

Thanks for putting the time into the write up that you have done here. I came across your build thread as I am researching fuel pump options or my FG. By chance it happens that we had an exchange relating to the idle issue in another thread.

 

I have read your entire build thread now and have had similar issues with a Mal Wood option 5 twin plate install. It is not an issue with the quality of the kit, it has now been in my car with a Borg Warner EFR 9180 for a couple of years no issue. Lighter than stock as well. I am not overly hard on it though.

 

My flywheel bolts loosened off within about 50km of driving the day I installed it, turns out I torqued to factory specifications which was a mistake. Same story as you, was able to redeem the crank mating face with minor filing to tidy up. This was a long time ago (say 5 years) but I think I ended up torquing to around 70-75ft/lb. I think you mentioned 85nm in your post earlier. When the replacement set of arp bolts arrived they came with a little piece of paper that had the recommended torque on it. The first set that came with the kit did not. 

 

Your story was identical right down to forgetting the sandwich plate, thinking it was a bleeding issue, heat issue of the clutch line running near the turbo dump.... Word of caution make sure you check with Mal Wood what torque he recommends before driving her again.

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  • Member For: 16y 2m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Central Queensland

Thank you for taking the time to read my thread, it is quiet lenghty and must have taken some time to complete. Generally, I don't get a lot of feedback,  it sometimes feels like your talking to yourself all of the time and that no one is noticing the updates .  It's good to know that it is not in vain and that it is of use to others. After all, that was the purpose of the thread..

 

From memory, we ran a tap through the flywheel to remove any old loctite and contaminant. We upped the torque on the bolts a bit and reapplied loctite to the new flywheel bolts. The car hasn't been run since, so I hope that we have resolved the issue. I guess that I'll soon find out. Lol.

 

Thanks again for your input and good luck with your idle issue.

 

Brad

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  • Member For: 14y 3m 27d

No worries, I fixed my idle issue years ago. No issues since. Plenty of people read the forums for information without posting, I haven't posted much because I hadn't been on the journey yet so didn't have much to add. 8 years of trying different things on mine now.

 

The ARP bolts are a lot harder than stock so it takes more torque to get them into their elastic zone. I had loctite on mine as well but it made no difference, like I said they basically backed out by 3 or 4 full turns within 50km's. I have now done at least 50,000km since that event and not had an issue since.

 

Saw that you are running a KPM fuel pump setup, I was very close to doing this myself, even dropped in on the guys down there while I was in Adelaide on a work trip some years back. They run a good outfit and they spent a bit of time showing me their manufacturing area as well as their automotive side. Good to see some Australian businesses going well. For now, I think I will buy a second 044 to go with my existing surge tank. Like you 98 ULP is most convenient, to get E85 is a mission in the Central West. I am very interested to see how you go with tuning on 98 ULP, I feel like I can't get any more out of mine on 98, I wonder what the limit is? It would be interesting to hear what other people have achieved.

 

I have been through the power steering reservoir relocation and modification to the high pressure P/S line as well, it was a mission. I just cut and shut the standard hose, no issues once it was all bolted back together.

 

I assure you there will be plenty of people who will read your thread and gain plenty from it, not wasted at all. To this end, I think I will post a build thread on mine, well at least what I remember of the journey.

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  • Dropping a turd
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  • Member For: 14y 9m 16d
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  • Location: Perth

The key to maintaining the tension on the flywheel bolts is the correct percentage of yield on the bolts and the correct loctite/bolt install procedure.

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