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  • Member
  • Member For: 13y 9m 9d
Posted

New fuel filter wouldn't hurt. Who knows when it was done last.

Perhaps some fresh diff oil and bleed the brakes. Both cheap and easy to do

  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 7d
Posted

My bad forgot to mention fuel filter already did that too, thanks will tell the mechanic to change diff oil when he changes the bush's over

  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 7d
Posted (edited)

Boost solenoid? As in the actuator? I cleaned that out day or purchase hahah. Is the diff oil change hard to do? Is there a how-to guide for that?

Also is this braided turbo oil line http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121113420064?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 a good product? Or are there better and cheaper options out there.

Edited by Mersin
  • Im the one and only
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 21y 8m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: In my house
Posted

Boost soleniod is not the actuator. Its a soleniod that signals the actuator. The wastegate actuator controls the wastegate. Most people spray some WD

40 or Inox into it to help the response of the soleniod to the actuator. that's what Buffers was referring too....

  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 7d
Posted

Boost soleniod is not the actuator. Its a soleniod that signals the actuator. The wastegate actuator controls the wastegate. Most people spray some WD

40 or Inox into it to help the response of the soleniod to the actuator. that's what Buffers was referring too....

Well I cleaned what I thought was the actuator I assume we're talking about the same thing, sprayed wd40 in both hoses. could anyone kindly give or help me out with a how-to change diff oil?

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 3m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Australia
Posted (edited)

In all honesty not looking to make a drag car, and with all this ZF transmission rebuild talk I'm kinda worried now haha. I just wanted to reach like 300 rwkw and not have the same xr6t as everyone else on the street. Like just the basic mods to give it a lil more power and a better sound.

Don't bother with the exhaust, just get the middle muffler deleted, sounds great and the stock exhaust is good for 300

Do it once do it properly with everything else, get ID1000s straight up for injectors, you'll probably want more than 300 once you get it, get an intercooler kit before doing the battery etc as you might limit your choices depending on who does the piping, most the intercooler kits have all this stuff anyway so no point doing it twice.

Budget $6k to do it properly, I made a thread on this recently.

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/88874-300rwkw-in-a-2007-bf-manual-modscost-stock-and-mod-or-buy-modded-example/#entry1495275

Edited by rollex
  • 2 weeks later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 7d
Posted

Just a quick question guys, I'm going to change the front wheel bearings on my T, I've been trying to do some research but haven't come to decision on whether to use the genuine ones or aftermarket ones, has anyone got some information for me?

Basically noticed that my cars running rougher and louder, at first thought it was wheel alignment or even tyre pressure, checked pressure (all tyres at 38) did a wheel alignment but still the noise won't disappear if anything its gotten louder, also noticed that the steering wheel shakes even whilst cruising a 100 :/ kinda annoying.

Another problem I noticed is that when I start the car and reverse out of the driveway and straighten my car I heard a knocking/rattling sound, only for a second or 2 and afterwards nothing, only happens after a cold start, seems to be coming from the LHS but not sure.

I'm hoping its the just the wheel bearing but could it be something worse like the strut or something?

Cheers guys

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 11m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
Posted

Sounds more symptomatic of lower control arm bushes than wheel bearings.

  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 7d
Posted

Sounds more symptomatic of lower control arm bushes than wheel bearings.

Thanks mate will look into it, mechanic says its the wheel bearing but kinda having doubts seems like every time he fixes something, something else around the region conveniently breaks

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